Broken fan - What Now

GTS Dean said:

Gotta respect a man who goes boldly against popular wisdom and triumphs. So far, so good. Let us know how it works this summer, and with track loads. Probably going to need some refinement, but you seem up to the task. You do plan to replumb some steering cooling, right?

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Thanks for the affirmation brother. I don't track my car so it will never see that load but, 115+ temps in Arizona should put it through it's paces.

It was a jumble of words and difficult to articulate on a forum, but steering cooling is still in place.

I'll take a picture, the common nomenclature makes it impossible to explain in text.

I would data log your temp from cold start.
Also AC on will have an effect.

In my opinion, 160 thermostat is low and so is running it at 180.

Goggles Pizano said:

I would data log your temp from cold start.
Also AC on will have an effect.

In my opinion, 160 thermostat is low and so is running it at 180.

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Good call, I'll data log today with AC on. 160 would normally be too low but I live in AZ and more importantly, I have complete control of the fans. So I can make the car as hot and cold as I want. 160 T-stat just lets me start the process sooner. But yeah I agree 180 is on the cold side. Although, the car is not at 180 while I'm driving to closer to 200, or at least it was yesterday we'll see what happens today.

Thermal efficiency is better when running warmer within reasonable limits. You just want to be able to 'keep a lid' on high demand heat rejection requirements so that you don't cook things under the hood.

Test 3, because I forgot to data log test 2.

Ambient Temp 64f 5:17 pm. This is a bit cold for Phoenix and not typically the temps I deal with. I was too cold to turn the AC on so I'll do it tomorrow. Spoiler Alert the car ran cold.

The cooling system definitely works very well!

Does anyone know what temp our cars go into closed loop?

Link to the data log; https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1QvJvkLSw9ExJKqrm2ZB-1Gyul40PImMq4Pp_oK_nzww/edit?usp=sharing

Fatman2006 said:

Does anyone know what temp our cars go into closed loop?

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My 03 would set a DTC with a 170 thermostat, but not a 180.

Old School said:

My 03 would set a DTC with a 170 thermostat, but not a 180.

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Makes sense the stock is 185, so 5 degrees would be negligible to the ECU. That being said at 160 I have no codes.

Hey Guys, I had procrastinated a lot on how to handle the broken fan blade situation. Thanks for all the great advice, and spirited discussion on Electric vs Hydraulic. Long story, but I did manage to purchase a Gen 3 Fan assembly (minus shroud) for approx 30% of the cost of the whole assembly. I plan to scalvage the fan blade off of this, and replace the broken one.
Anyone done this ? Tips, Advice, Videos all appreciated. Thanks All !!

Rubble said:

Hey Guys, I had procrastinated a lot on how to handle the broken fan blade situation. Thanks for all the great advice, and spirited discussion on Electric vs Hydraulic. Long story, but I did manage to purchase a Gen 3 Fan assembly (minus shroud) for approx 30% of the cost of the whole assembly. I plan to scalvage the fan blade off of this, and replace the broken one.
Anyone done this ? Tips, Advice, Videos all appreciated. Thanks All !!

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I've done it, super simple. Unbolt the fan shroud from the radiator (4 bolts I don't remember the size) unplug the temperature sensor, disconnect all the hydraulic lines (3 lines if I remember correctly), grab a pulley puller and it comes right off.

The only complication you may run into, is the radiator inlet hose can get in the way when removing the fan assembly. If you pinch the hose you can squeeze the fan assembly by without removing the radiator inlet hose.

Also, I have a fan blade I could have sold you.

Thanks FM ! yeah my neighbour who has an “ awsum set of tools” thought it looked pretty straightforward as well. Thanks for encouragement and directions.

Yes I guess I should have tried a bit harder here on the forum to find the fan blade your right.

I will not let fear and good judgement hold me back on this project and will make a plan. I will keep all posted

Oh man….received the part and it is broken. Visible cracks in 2 spots on the fan blades. They assured me that it had been inspected. I’m pissed.

I shall not mention the company that I have been dealing with until I see how they deal with my request for a full refund and prepaid return shipping

Hey Fatman before I continue my search would you consider selling your fan blade ?

Rubble said:

Oh man….received the part and it is broken. Visible cracks in 2 spots on the fan blades. They assured me that it had been inspected. I’m pissed.

I shall not mention the company that I have been dealing with until I see how they deal with my request for a full refund and prepaid return shipping

Hey Fatman before I continue my search would you consider selling your fan blade ?

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Sent you a private message.

Hi all resurecting this thread. The Journey continues....my car has now been in Hibernation since last september while I have got this sorted out.

After ordering a used cooling assembly on Line I received it with 3 fan blades cracked !! After some initial resistence from the shipper I did get a full refund on the cost of the item and shipping, but it came from the US and I did not get my duty back. $100 dollar lesson learned.
So.... I purchased the complete new cooling assembly. directly from Dodge. Took 2 weeks to receive and $1500 Cdn later I have the Part !! I found it amusing that the date on the box has it manufactured in 2011.

I have had a look and it looks pretty straightforward to replace. I am somewhat challenged/moderately handy and I think I am going to try and tackle this myself.

Before I start I had a couple questions for those who know please.
- Suggestions on how to minimize the Brake/power steering fluid loss during the swap out ?
- Any kind of seals or O rings on the hydraulic hoses that should be replaced during the swap out ?
- Any Oh Shit !....I should have done _______________while I had the whole assembly out thoughts ?
- What is the Brake/Power Steering Fluid that I need to use. I Know it is a particular type and putting in the wrong one can have terrible consequences. If you think you know...please dont respond....I need the correct and final answer for this plz

The old unit has performed great no leaks or issues that I can see. The only reason to replace was the broken fan blade.

Please refrain from the "Just switch to Electric advice" please. If you want to review this thread from its beginning you will understand.

FYI this car will be up for sale when I get this assembly in. I also have brand new tires waiting to go on the car. It is Silver and in Excellent condition with 39000 km (24K miles) on it. The Car is located near Calgary AB Canada. For US buyers I can assist as much as possible. I have never exported/imported a vehicle.

Thanks
Rubble

I just replaced all the hoses on my fan unit after the low pressure return line got rubbed through by the steering column and blew fluid all through my engine bay.

I can say that you won’t be able to remove the fan assembly from the car without a lot of fluid loss. All the fittings are on the bottom at the lowest point of the whole powersteering/fan assembly.

You can try to remove a line and immediately cap it. Make sure the reservoir cap is on to help keep it from draining too fast.

The upper radiator hose needs to be removed to get the whole assembly out also so you might lose some fluid there too. If your expansion tank coolant level is above the upper radiator hose a lot of coolant will pour out. I didn’t have to remove my assembly, just loosened it to get better access to underneath when replacing the hoses but did notice I was limited how far I could pull the assembly up due to the upper radiator hose.

Rubble said:

- Suggestions on how to minimize the Brake/power steering fluid loss during the swap out ?

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I recently replaced the line between the fan and steering rack, lost less than a cup of fluid. Basically, just what was in the line.

You are putting in a new assembly plus it is $1500 and you want to keep as much OLD fluid as possible??

Thanks old school and east coast Appreciate your advice. Helpful info for sure.
Goggles….well when you say it like that I guess you’re absolutely right. Ha ha. Probably 10 bucks worth of 20 yr old fluid right ? I guess my thought was this. The install is flawless, I lose an ounce or two of fluid. Top er up carry on. I am sure there will be the purists out there that will say to drain it all and replace with new. Thoughts ?
Btw what is the fluid ?
Thanks

Rubble said:

Thanks old school and east coast Appreciate your advice. Helpful info for sure.
Goggles….well when you say it like that I guess you’re absolutely right. Ha ha. Probably 10 bucks worth of 20 yr old fluid right ? I guess my thought was this. The install is flawless, I lose an ounce or two of fluid. Top er up carry on. I am sure there will be the purists out there that will say to drain it all and replace with new. Thoughts ?
Btw what is the fluid ?
Thanks

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Atf-4

Nothing to do with being a purist. It is old oxidized degraded hydraulic oil. You have the chance to drain it completely or close to completely. Most of us just **** out the reservoir and refill, then repeat after working the fluid through the system. Repeating it a few times to dilute the old as much as possible when we do fluid changes on cars.

Goggles Pizano said:

You are putting in a new assembly plus it is $1500 and you want to keep as much OLD fluid as possible??

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YEP!!!! Keep it original as much as possible!!!!



I don't know. Just seems to me to covert to electric with a couple of switches and an OEM 08-10 fan setup seems better:

99RT10GTS said:

YEP!!!! Keep it original as much as possible!!!!



I don't know. Just seems to me to covert to electric with a couple of switches and an OEM 08-10 fan setup seems better:

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Uh ohhh. You said the forbidden word!

I even provided a link to a cheap OEM fan setup. $150 shipped!!

99RT10GTS said:

I even provided a link to a cheap OEM fan setup. $150 shipped!!

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How dare you! A couple of relays, temperature probe and a PWM and you go and give people the last piece of the puzzle.

SMH.