Gen 2 Subwoofer Replacement

DoitNXS

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Hello all,
Has anyone been successful in finding a replacement 6.5" subwoofer for a 2001 RT? After mine disintegrated, I needed to replace it and was very surprised at how hard it was to find a shallow 4ohm subwoofer in 2024.
I'm sure everyone who has already looked into this or even made the mistake of blindly pre-purchasing a subwoofer before pulling the old one out and looking at the space you have to work with quickly realized that real estate behind that console is VERY limited, and there are not that many subwoofers that would fit in there without having to use 1/2"+ spacers. I want to keep this looking as stock as I can.
I've seen older posts from over ten years ago recommending a JL Audio 6W0, but that part has since been discontinued. I was, however, able to find a no-name speaker that fit, but it was only available in 8ohm, so it sounds like it's behind a wet diaper when using the stock amplifier. I'm not looking to redo the entire system or drop 2k on a sound system. In fact, the only significant update I did was install the Pioneer flip screen so I could have a nav, and that's it. Thank god for the custom wiring harness. I found that made it easy, too, because no one wanted to install the stereo for less than 2k because they said I would need to update the entire system... bullsht.
I digress. Can someone recommend a place where I can find the proper size and Ohm subwoofer for a Gen 2 RT?
Thank you all in advance for any help. Rock on.
 

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Jim Myke

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Car tunes replaced mine a few years ago in a 98 RT/10
 

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ViperFan1

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I just went through this on my 99 RT10. I did Kicker 46CSC654 CS-Series CSC65 6.5-Inch speakers in the fronts and tried Nolan Motorsports advice off his YT channel about using the Goldwood Sound GW-206/8 OEM 6.5" Woofer, and I compared it to the Skar Audio EVL-65 D4 6.5" 400 Watt Max , both FS on amazon. I like the Skar a bit more, but due to the limited space I had to get some spacers, also off amazon, 6.5-inch Subwoofer Speaker ABS Spacers for Auto Car, 14mm Depth, 2Pcs. At first I was conflicted on it sticking out, but I'm the only one who notices and I appreciate the bigger thump than without.

I will say this, I met a local Viper rt10 owner and he spent $2500 on a JL Audio door speakers, amp, sub and sub in the trunk and there is not a $2k+ difference in the sound. His music is crisper inside but still not that much bass. That being said, his exhaust has much more drone than mine and the sound setup feels not worth it to me. I spent all of $150 maybe total.
Attached what mine looks like.
 

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jjayde

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I just went through this on my 99 RT10. I did Kicker 46CSC654 CS-Series CSC65 6.5-Inch speakers in the fronts and tried Nolan Motorsports advice off his YT channel about using the Goldwood Sound GW-206/8 OEM 6.5" Woofer, and I compared it to the Skar Audio EVL-65 D4 6.5" 400 Watt Max , both FS on amazon. I like the Skar a bit more, but due to the limited space I had to get some spacers, also off amazon, 6.5-inch Subwoofer Speaker ABS Spacers for Auto Car, 14mm Depth, 2Pcs. At first I was conflicted on it sticking out, but I'm the only one who notices and I appreciate the bigger thump than without.

I will say this, I met a local Viper rt10 owner and he spent $2500 on a JL Audio door speakers, amp, sub and sub in the trunk and there is not a $2k+ difference in the sound. His music is crisper inside but still not that much bass. That being said, his exhaust has much more drone than mine and the sound setup feels not worth it to me. I spent all of $150 maybe total.
Attached what mine looks like.
The Skar EVL-65 D4 is a DVC, whereas the OEM sub in the viper is a SVC, how did you get around that? I have the EVL-65 in a box right now but cant figure out how to wire it.
 

MoparMap

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It would depend on the impedance rating you got. You can wire the coils of a DVC in series or in parallel to get different impedances to match what you need. So for instance if you have a 4 ohm DVC (each coil being 4 ohms), you can wire them in series for an 8 ohm load or in parallel for a 2 ohm load. If you need 4 ohms though you're kind of stuck and would just wire a single coil of the two and leave the other open.
 
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Goggles Pizano

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The Skar EVL-65 D4 is a DVC, whereas the OEM sub in the viper is a SVC, how did you get around that? I have the EVL-65 in a box right now but cant figure out how to wire it.
What amp are you using and D vs S coils is just for wiring to match your amp and your system. The sound quality is not affected and purely for giving people wiring options to optimize their systems.
 

ViperFan1

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The Skar EVL-65 D4 is a DVC, whereas the OEM sub in the viper is a SVC, how did you get around that? I have the EVL-65 in a box right now but cant figure out how to wire it.
I'll be honest, I'm not sure what either of those mean. I wired it, and it worked and hit decent enough. That being said, After two trips with the top down, I began to dislike the look of the sub sticking out so much. I replaced it with a better looking and hopefully more quality unit, Kicker 48CWRT672 CompRT 6.75" 2-Ohm DVC Subwoofer as mentioned a few posts up by @DavidDauzat. Despite the size being larger, it does indeed fit and was also a recommendation per someone on the FB Viper groups. I use the OEM amp. Audio is new to me, so I just go off of what others have tried and are happy with.

Pic attached of how it looks now.
 

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Goggles Pizano

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I'll be honest, I'm not sure what either of those mean. I wired it, and it worked and hit decent enough. That being said, After two trips with the top down, I began to dislike the look of the sub sticking out so much. I replaced it with a better looking and hopefully more quality unit, Kicker 48CWRT672 CompRT 6.75" 2-Ohm DVC Subwoofer as mentioned a few posts up by @DavidDauzat. Despite the size being larger, it does indeed fit and was also a recommendation per someone on the FB Viper groups. I use the OEM amp. Audio is new to me, so I just go off of what others have tried and are happy with.

Pic attached of how it looks now.
If are using the OEM amp, what impedance was the stock speaker? Useless OEM are 4ohms so your 2ohm speaker may fup your OEM amp as it may not be rates down to 2ohm
 

ViperFan1

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If are using the OEM amp, what impedance was the stock speaker? Useless OEM are 4ohms so your 2ohm speaker may fup your OEM amp as it may not be rates down to 2ohm
I didn’t have a stock sub, I had an aftermarket Audison Prima AP 6.5” that barely did anything.
 
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