03/04 has no slots or mounting boss for the sensor.
A machine shop can add them with a sample and a full disassembly, but the ring will still be undersize and require a custom made sensor and block machine work.
What you are doing is not simple stuff to complete... if it was that easy...
No programming changes needed.
Yes, you can extend the harness and run the 2004 sensor location. The quality required in doing this correctly is paramount. High hz signal wiring has no tolerance in being done cheaply.
All of that said, be aware that doing this is inferior in every way...
The crank sensor adapter can be made without a problem. Generally I would not advise a Knock Sensor retrofit, as the bosses really need to be welded, and it cannot be done with the engine in the car very easily. To add, the knock sensors are programmed for a specific boss type and mounting, and...
Its been a while, but if I recall we always used 35lb on the relief body, and 25lb on the tube fittings. They are all O-Ring and Swivel, so its not like they are dependent on torque or can unscrew themselves under normal circumstances.
Use a light, and run over the whole system. You should see oil residue where there is a slow leak. If you find absolutely nothing, its likely the evaporator.
For what its worth, be careful. A slow hidden leak means you are losing both refrigerant and oil, and most recharges are refrigerant...
Gen-1 & 2 use a Trinary switch on the High side, and a Thermostat. Gen-3/4/5 use a Binary switch on the Low Side, as well as a Pressure Sensor on the High Side, and a Temp probe on the Evaporator.
In general, the Compressor will run when called, unless the system pressure drops too low via...
OK... I think I need to clean this thread up!
First, I NEVER sold Braided PS hoses. I distribute replacement Oil COOLER lines, and sell tons of them, from standard to Quick Disconnect styles... but never exposed SS braid. They are of course always recommended for Gen-3/4/5, as OEM lines are...
Tom-
I am down in Port Charlotte, and I do have my DRB3 and Gen-1 cards with me.
It would not be a cheap trip due to travel, but nothing crazy. Most likely you have a module failure. Not only could I diag the car, but I could bring a donor module for confirmation testing and get you set up with...
The particular cam you have is quite mild. You should not be having any bucking issues that would be much different than stock, certainly not enough to consider a swap back. Generally under 2K in low gears should never be a steady-state cruise... you accell, clutch and coast. If you are trying...
As I said,they are 3 versions of G3 blocks. One version has them, two versions do not.
These things can be mixed and matched if you know what you are doing. We can enable/disable knock sensors with hardware/software depending on configuration, etc. You can run a newer knock-block in a 2004 on...
As pointed out above, this is exactly the type of nonsense I specialize in..... and I am located 2 hrs south of Tampa, certainly within range of you for a service call.
You answered your own question. G3/4/5 rotating assembly components all have different weights. You cannot bolt G3 parts to a G5 crank and expect it to be balanced. You NEED to have the crankshaft balanced by an engine machine shop or you may as well just flush the money down the drain...
Getting the vast majority of Head/Cam cars with even remotely decent sized cams in them to pass emissions and NOT eat converters in the process is generally an exercise in futility.
Also, depending on what was changed, your module may no longer be capable of passing an OBD2 plug-in with...
Short version:
There are 3 versions of G3 blocks:
1. 2003 Only. Flywheel Pickup, No Knock Sensors, oddball oil cooler line adapter that screws onto the block.
2. 2004 Only. Flywheel Pickup, No Knock Sensors, Revision to eliminate adapter.
3. 2005-2006. 2004 Block with Knock Sensor Mounting...
SG-
If the photos above are the worst of it, I would negotiate on the car. Those are fairly typical flaws in the G2 market. Get the sills cleaned up and sprayed, a few trim pieces and "deletions" of whatever they did in that dash, a few weatherstrips... and should be good to go. If it runs much...
On one hand... cool. On the other hand, unless doing something like bringing over the ZF 8-speed as well and converting to a paddle car... seems like there are plenty of options retaining the V10 instead.
The viper uses inductive coils. In general, they work or they dont. Unless damaged directly or indirectly, they do not tend to fail. Plugs and wires sure, but dont waste money on coil replacements for no reason.
I would suggest if you know anyone else with a Gen-1, swap the PCM's [both] and see if the problem goes away. many times when the PCMs are nearing a failure, they can often act just like that. If that is what is happening, you DO NOT want to keep trying as you risk further damage... and you want...
No, the issue with Gen-1's [and to be honest, its barely an issue] is that due to wet sleeve design, you have to be careful of engine rotation without the heads on, or you can pop the liners out accidentally.
That said, it is mainly a concern on newer engines. The aged engines have liners damn...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.