You could always try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. Just make sure you have a window down or door open while you do it. Also, after you cycle power, turn the key to run, then off to reinitialize.
Those holes in the exhaust are pretty weird, wonder if they are intentionally made or what? I would fix them.
I would also disable the skip shift solenoid in the transmission if it has been done already.
An interesting result of doing anything that results in more air flow (heads, cam, exhaust, etc) at wide open throttle is it will go leaner because the same fuel is being injected in spite of the additional air flow. It's running in open loop mode and just using a predefined fuel map. This will...
Don't know exactly what you've read, so hear are a couple things. You can replace the left side without removing the stock headers, don't know about yours. Right side either the oil pan or header needs to come off. To give wiggle room, remove shock crossover brace so the engine can be lifted...
Jacking points are the inverted angle iron, just behind the front tires and just in front of the rear tires.
The first thing to do on the car is to eliminate the skip shift solenoid on the transmission. Either by just unplugging or adding one of these...
The rears can be done the same way, with the axle and place, just a little more challenging.
Also, a good time to replace the lower shock bushings, mine were metal on metal.
Yeah, could be lack of friction modifier if the grrr only occurs during turns. Could also be a wheel bearing, I had one fail, and it was a constant grrr while in motion.
If an engine was damaged every time it wouldn’t start because of an ignition problem there would be a huge amount of damaged engines out there, not just Viper . You’ll be fine.
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