^ this ^ Except you don’t actually have to clone them, just need to read the IDs. Then program the new ones when you need them. I encourage anyone with a GEN3 do this.
The Schrader 29227 works, but won't activate with the magnet. The RF tool will wake them up. There was an older Schrader part number that woke up with the magnet but doesn't seem to be available anymore. Schrader was the OEM vendor.
I've have issues with some sensors not waking up with the magnet (even though they advertised as should), but this woke those up. The earlier sensors used the magnet, later used RF...
It has an ODB1 connection, not ODB2, so standard code readers will not work (a Chrysler DRB2 will). You can retrieve the codes using the standard Chrysler method of cycling ignition on-off-on-off-on and counting the flashing check engine light.
Interesting coincidence. 2 days ago, a guy at work left his headlights on in his 2000 Ram Van. After I jumped him off, it wouldn't idle without holding the throttle slightly open. Even after few minutes of this in the parking lot it would not idle. Took it for a 10-minute drive, all was...
High flow cats basically just don't function as well as the stock ones. When cats are working, they generate heat. Since high flows don't convert as much gas, they don't generate as much heat, so maybe you can get by with the factory insulation......
I would suggest just removing the cats, if you can get by with it in your state, and leave the rest alone. See how it sounds, exhaust sound is subjective. It will be significantly louder with much lower sill temp.
Some like to use high flow cats as an expensive muffler, but that just adds heat.
I've had this problem with many vehicles in the past. The solution that always works is bring the rims in loose, not on the car, then they always go ahead and mount the new tires.
I would check the valve spring pressures. If reduced, this can lead to valve float, then pumped up lifters, which then will hold the valve partially open allow them smack the piston...
This is excellent advice. What's interesting is I had the almost the exact same experience 40 years ago. On a Chrysler products' rear end I built, the gear oil was seeping out. The RTV was still wet. It was a small tube of RTV that came in a Dana 60 bearing kit. Probably on the warehouse...
Personally, I'd follow the manufacturers recommendations.
Also, a 2016 Nisson Pathfinder has the same bolt pattern and came with 18's. Maybe they would clear the brakes and the center hole would be large enough.
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