My exhaust guy basically redid at least half the hangers on the system. I'd just bring it to an exhaust shop and let them fit it for you. Annoying but they can bang it out much easier.
Call Jon B
You should be able to find exhaust easily. All the parts are the same as the GTS for the most part and should be available.
Whats wrong with the rear calipers?
Someone just sold about 20 sets of NOS ACR wheels, you should be able to find them out there.
Agreed. Theres really no good reason to start a car and rev it at standstill other than to charge the battery, and there's much better/easier ways to do that. A car sitting for 2 weeks or 2 months is not much of a difference (other than to the tires), and there's ways around that also.
i generally agree, but if there's nothing reasonably close....any good shop (i understand good is relative) can do most things on a viper. They're very simple cars. I wouldn't hesitate to use a shop I trusted that may not be viper specific for most things.
with that said, I'd also do all my...
alternator should be fine, no reason to touch it unless its not working. Whenever you replace or rebuild the waterpump that will take care of that one.
sounds almost (and looks almost) exactly like mine. I did most of those as soon as I got it and the rest within 6 months or so. It's just a good peace of mind. Havik should have water pumps.
I'd say skip slotted rotors as well. no need, just more likely to crack. I think i got centrix or...
Mine felt great (red 99 with 12k miles and all original parts including spark plugs lol) as well...it felt even better when i changed all that. Even better once i replaced the old shocks.
Unless youre pushing really hard or tracking, just go with new aftermarket (oem style) rotors and "better"...
looks solid, decent deal at high 50s low 60s.
Not sure why everyone has issues with brakes on gen 2s. They are just fine for the street. Aside from not having ABS, they have no issue stopping the car with new rotors and good pads.
awesome thank you...im about to do this.
also free shipping on them from amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Chrysler-4401950-Radiator-Isolator/dp/B00FZFWHWO
theyre a bit of a pita...as the bumper needs to come off. If you replace them, add some shielding (rubber cover) to prevent them from rubbing the frame
Call JonB. That aside, for typical street driving any of those will do just fine. If youre reaching the handling limits of the tires on the street trying to get that last 2% in performance, youre probably driving too fast anyway. Michelin being the best, Conti and Pzero are probably similar...
Unless you have Viper #1 (or maybe the first 5-10 even, or the last of a production run)....#207 is meaningless even if it was accurate. The year, early production and 3300 miles and everything else matter way more than whatever number way after the first. I wouldn't even sweat it.
stock cats also clog and catch fire.
It's go with high flow cats and corsa. Pretty sure corsa is the least drone available.
If you dont care about smell then you can do spirals in place of the cats.
if it has headlights and a decent drivetrain, that's about 20k in parts, so you cant really go wrong.
If it drives well, is straight...seems ok to me depending on what you want.
if you can hear the front bumper rattling in that area bc of one push pin....there's something wrong with your viper ;)
Not sure I'd hear it if my entire bumper fell off
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