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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    51. Here is the engine all ready to be lifted out. Once the engine is free and loose, recheck all around it to make sure, again, that you didn’t forget to disconnect any wires or remove any bolts or loosen any hoses that could break or keep you from lifting the engine out. Attach your...
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    50. From the top, there are four 9/16” bolts attaching the bellhousing to the block. These are tight like the larger ones on the bottom. They are not easy to get to, even with everything out of the way. The first pic is looking down from the driver-side, and the second from the...
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    47. You will want to start getting things ready to pull the engine out now. Under the car, you will now need to find the motor mount nuts. The frame has a cradle that the engine sits in. There is a large nut and a tab that align the engine in the cradle on each frame rail. The nut is ¾”...
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    44. The oil cooler lines should be visible now that everything is out of the way. The larger fitting is on the line and takes a 1” wrench. You can hold the fitting on the oil filter pedestal with a 7/8” wrench while you loosen the line. 45. Unbolt the thermostat housing and...
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    40. The alternator is attached with two 9/16” bolts. Remove the bolts and wriggle the alternator up and out. 41. Remove the coolant hose that runs up to the coolant tank. Mine has a hose clamp; yours might be a spring clamp. 42. Next remove the coolant...
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    37. With the cross brace out of the way, it makes pulling out the power steering pump a cinch. I have a billet pulley and bracket, but the stock will be the same (wait, you don’t have an upgraded pulley and bracket? Get it… NOW). There are three ½” bolts holding the pump to the bracket...
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    34. Removing the cross brace is next. Unbolt the power steering pump cooler from the front of the brace and lay it to the side. Then unbolt the two 9/16” bolts from the frame on each side. The forward-most bolt on my car has a nut on the inside of the fender so I have to reach in and hold...
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    32. You will notice the harness is held by a tab on the front corner of the valve cover by one of the bolts. Loosen it and pull off the tab. Now the engine harness should be free from the motor and can be pulled out of the way. 33. Remove the radiator hoses from the...
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    29. Disconnect alternator wire by removing the ½” nut. Then disconnect the harness on top of the alternator. (sorry for the blurry pics) 30. The cam position sensor sits right above the crank pulley/damper. It is a simple push-to-release clip, but usually it is very...
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    Thanks Eric. I didn't know the new sets don't come with the #3 main bearing. I'll have to check on that. I just ordered the sets that Greg recommends in the first page in this post:
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    Stripped down to the bare block long crank is long :D weighed it at the machine shop and it came in over 85lbs :eek: All rotating parts are now at American Automotive Machine in SLC for a full component balance. I'm finishing up the writeup now. I'll post the rest later today.
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    Added Protection...

    LIG posted the question on the forum so obviously he is not too worried about it or he would have asked more discreetly :rolleyes: I'm glad you can't use this... now go think of your own theft-proof idea and don't tell anyone or maybe you should pull the fuel pump fuse... now that you have...
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    Added Protection...

    here's a pic of the box
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    Added Protection...

    Fuel pump fuse its in the trunk on the left side behind the stereo amp in a black fuse box its the top fuse
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    Lowered --what kind of jack do you carry?

    I built wooden ramps and have a low-profile jack there's no room for my spare tire with 2 nitrous bottles in the trunk so I don't need a jack ;)
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    25. This next one is very tricky and you’ll have to decide how you want to do it. You could have the A/C system evacuated of Freon and just leave the compressor on the motor. Or you can do it this way. Remove the four 12mm bolts holding the compressor to the block. They are very...
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    22. If you haven’t done so already, drain the coolant and oil now. I put a big, flat Rubbermaid bin under the lower radiator hose and disconnect it and let it drain there instead of messing with the radiator drain plug. A little more messy, but gets it done real quick. You can also drain...
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    18. A couple old hand towels cover the heads and valve covers nicely and block debris from getting in the intake inlets. You can stuff some rags in the inlets as well. 19. Disconnect all the spark plug wires and undo the separators from the valve covers so you can move all of...
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    This was all from the first night. I did a little more last night and I'll get that up later. As I said, please let me know if I missed anything or should have explained it differently.
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    16. Once all those bolts are loose and the manifold is just sitting on the heads, you will need to depressurize the fuel system. The easiest way is to take a rag and a small ballpoint pen. The brass cap on top of the manifold is covering a schrader valve. Hold the rag over the hole as you...
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    13. These are the bolts that hold on the intake manifold. There are 2 for each intake runner. They are 7/16” bolts. Remember, the head is aluminum, so be careful not to cross-thread them as you remove them or snap off the head of the bolt. 14. I use a long 10” extension on the...
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    9. Remove the heater air box. There are a few 10mm screws holding in down and then just pull it up and off. 10. This part is very tricky and takes small, dexterous hands. The coil connectors are exactly like the fuel injector/ignition harness connectors. They have the red slider and you...
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    8. The fuel injector/ignition harness is located on the left side behind the intake manifold. I have a VEC connected in there, so your connectors may look a little different, but the principle is the same. There are 2 big connectors. Pull them up so you can see them. You will push the...
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    4. Now the focus is on the intake manifold. 5. Start by removing the brake booster line and A/C vac. Line. 6. Disconnect the TPS sensor on the left throttle body. 7. On the other side, disconnect the IAC behind the right throttle body.
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    Project: Bullet-proof V-10

    Here is what I have done so far: 1. First disconnect the battery and remove the airbox or whatever intake system you are using. 2. Next you will remove the windshield wipers and cowling. 15mm nuts hold the wiper arms on. 4 phillips screws hold the cowling on...

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