That would be a special dyno facility, on a properly calibrated dynojet your car will make roughly 400rwhp.
Don't get to caught up in the online dynojet wars, just use them as a baseline for your mods.
His car makes exactly what it should considering all the mods were put onto the car and...
Im sorry was it you asking the questions or the person who started the thread?
Car needs a good tuner and a tune, to start with..
And if you tell me that that it was already done then my next comment will be the following.
A good tuner will know the following.
13.2 a/f is not good, its lean...
My bet is someone altered the factory wiring for whatever reason and its causing your problems.
Most people think that its no big deal to tap into existing wires for power/ground/etc/etc. Well as you can see it is a big deal, the ECU wires are not to be touched period.
Your question was already answered if you dont want to hear the answer dont ask the question.
Or are you looking for someone to offer you some magic tuning beans that fix all?
You need to tune it, all that work without a tune will no doubt result in low power output and a poor running car.
Gen 2's make roughly 395-410hp at the wheels stock, depending on dyno and year of car.
Unless they have projected tips like the OEM plugs they will not work as well. You really should use OEM plugs, on the dyno they are worth 10hp at the wheels vs a non projected tip plug.
The main thing we need to know is if the cylinder heads are factory or Strykers. Perhaps someone would be able to tell by looking at some pictures? Or something else you can look for on the casting to tell.
Your going to need to give us much more information if you want a good answer rather than a guess.
What kind of heads, compression, turbo, supercharged, N/A, etc...
Best bang for buck on vipers is a tune no single mod will get you the results a good tune will.
Also don't forget to tune after every major mod done, this includes rockers, headers, exhaust. If not you will never see the full potential of the mod being installed, and you are taking a risk...
1) Change oil/filter after 10 min of running.
2) Drive for 100-200 miles to make sure everything is good, look for obvious problems that are motor related.
3) Take the car to chassis dyno and tune to max potential.
4) Drive it like you mean it, don't be afraid to get on it for best performance...
Those rails will work just fine, there are many people using them including my self.
You will need to block off the fuel pressure test port or it hits the rail. And the throttle linkage needs to be bent up and towards the drivers side to clear the rail.
Besides all that you need to follow the...
On my car everything was heat wrapped from the turbo's on and it was like that before them also and there is very little heat in the area. Odds are that its caused by all the exhaust heat, just wrap everything except for the header and you will notice a big difference.
For most people the most expensive and hardest part to do would be the work inside the fuel tank. The parts themselves are very cheap the expensive part is labor. So why would you spend all that money to upgrade your system and go cheap on the actual parts?
Thats normal for warm weather, or if you are in heavy stop and go traffic.
When its 110 or so here mine will sit just a bit cooler than the next mark which is 220 when in stop and go or low speed driving.
A properly sized turbo on on 8L motor and you have more low end torque than you know what to do with.
Vipers already have serious traction issues because of the low end torque, the only thing a Roe will give you is a bump in torque up to say 2k rpm. And even then we are not talking very big...
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