Mine did the same thing and I traced it to the keyless entry module staying energized because of a hood switch. I've posted more than once here about what I did to remedy it, so feel free to search my posts from about a year ago or a little longer.
That car is extremely well-kept and let's face it: It's the first year and most desirable color.
It will take a certain individual to lay down serious coin on it, but if that person exists, he will be at Barrett Jackson.
Mad Max (or anyone else), could you open up an 090 Mopar Filter and place pics in this thread for comparison too? I've been running those due to availabilty, but I change oil religiously.
I got a "Battery Minder" from www.Batteryweb.com
I asked them about the features of different types of battery maintainers and recieved excellent tech info and service. :2tu:
I have the Borla Cat-Back. Stock manifolds, no cats, and the "2-muffler" setup with only mufflers in the sides and straight pipes in the rear. Sounds pretty good to me.
Here...have a listen:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nh18Oswbsrg
:2tu:
Even if it needs a crank... you shouldn't be out any more than a few $thousand, including labor. Might have to ship your car to another shop, but there are several who will take care of you.
That $17k figure is probably an attempt at floating their service department for the month.
Check to see if the frame recall, etc... has been done on it too.
Looks like a nice car for a nice price. See if you can knock a couple $thousand off it and you'll be real happy!
A steady enough current draw could indeed hurt batteries prematurely...and in some cases very quickly.
A "tender" only bandaids the wound, although many will default that answer as your solution.
It's not a complex system, but needs the test conducted as per Steve and myself above.
Since it has slowly gotten worse for you, I suspect the battery is just done... not holding a charge.
However, if the battery checks out okay, find out how much current is being drawn off the system (measuring milliamps). While the meter is connected, you then can pull fuses to narrow down...
It's called the "rear run channel" and it's part of a larger piece that fits inside the door.
Some of the Viper salvage places have it from parts cars; from what I've seen, it runs close to $300.
I need one too but haven't bit the bullet.
After arming the alarm and getting the "honk," do you get the confirmation "honk" 15 seconds later? It is supposed to do that, then it's actually "armed" and the dash LED will do it's flash routine.
If yours isn't doing this, then something is probably keeping the KEM (Keyless Entry...
Sure it's a neat car... but it's no Viper GTS. I wouldn't even consider trading.
If I had to have a GT500, I would pick up a 2010 or 2011, then add a pulley, tune, and exhaust.
Sure the fiero kit looks like crap...
but when you get the wheelbase, windows, wing, and ride-height correct, as Ferrari did, it looks alot better...
How could anyone think this car looks "bland?"
They're fetching a premium... saw one bring ~$750k a few years ago. I've heard of...
Sure, Vipers are really nice, but I'm not gonna lie: I'd trade mine for just about everything mentioned thus far...
except the Porsche and Corvette. :crazy2:
:D:D
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