I don't have the desire to sift through the endless email drama on VCA issues/restructuring/rebirth whatnot. So in a few sentences, what is South Florida supporting? Are we being asked to choose between VCA 2.0 and VOA? :dunno:
While you wait for the $$$ BBK upgrade, put Hawk HPS pads on and enjoy the clean experience. If only Performance Friction had a stock Viper app I'd go for those over the Hawk's.
I'm dropped quite a bit on 19's F/R with lowered coil-overs and find that angling inclined approaches/departures is a must. Speed bumps are definately out most encounters. I must say I've changed my routes since being lowered to avoid being 'trapped'. As long as you're just scraping the lip...
Good on you OP, that's refreshing to read.
The heartburn I have with insurance (premiums) is knowing I'm subsidizing those that can't or won't buy responsible coverage for themselves.
I have a similar problem in that both my keys won't operate the locks (corrosion?). Can new locks be sourced anywhere, or at least take the guts out of the existing ones and not have locks at all?
The issue with the bearing is its seals that age and leak due to the relatively hostile environment in the bellhousing. Mine went with only about 12K on it.
Our fleet includes the Viper, Challenger SRT8 (392 M6!), Jetta TDi (diesel), and a motorcycle. The Challenger would be my recommendation . . . a wonderfully designed, roomy and powerful machine.
My guess would be you still have air in the system. The line from the master to the slave has a high point where it crosses the frame rail from what I recall. Real biotch to bleed. Take it back to the shop and have them pressure or vacuum bleed it (not the pedal pump method). Do a search here...
Looking fine, Jeff. Glad you were able to get most if done yourself (you wisely outsourced the cap installs). Nothing like the feeling of doing your own work. And thanks for the props . . . .
Hey Joe welcome to vca! I'm just up the road from you and can tell you that there are not any organized Viper activities to speak of. I would get on the cars and coffee list and do their events. Next one is this Saturday at the new Elliot Car Museum on Hutchinson Island. I'll be there around...
One thing that could contribute to the perceived lack of drop is tightening the coilover mounts with the wheels in the air . . . . proper procedure is to torque everything up with the suspension loaded. The easiest way to to do this in a garage setting is to put a jack beneath the brake rotor...
Exactly the same procedure I used, except I had a hammer and drift to help things along too. Good work Jeff! Just be glad you don't have to remove the rear shocks from their forks! And yes, your stabilizer link boot is gone and it won't be long till the joint makes noise or fails. If you replace...
Bummer. I'm confused . . . you also bought a slave and didn't install it? How do you know it isn't also the slave? Everything bled out properly through the slave?
Some cars have the fuse for the lighter socket positionable for either ON all the time, or just with the IGN ON. If I recollect correctly, you simply move the fuse one leg over either left or right. Don't suppose this is the case with our Vipers?
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