Can you trace it any higher than the pan rail? Not a gen 1, but my gen 3 valve covers were leaking and would trickle down the side of the block eventually. Oil tends to collect on the pan bolt heads just because of geometry and gravity. Not sure how the gen 1 valve cover gaskets are set up...
Sounds like just updating the block with the notches is probably the easiest thing in the long run for you and any potential new owner down the road. I didn't realize the 03 blocks didn't have that relief, but knowing that the 04+ blocks have them would make me a lot less worried about putting...
I doubt it would hurt anything to leave it off for a little bit, but pretty sure it's a fairly major part of the aerodynamics of the car. I doubt it would make any real difference in cabin temperatures as if anything I'd expect faster airflow through the tunnel with it installed than without...
Here's a picture of my 04 after the rod failure I had. Looks like there is a decent spot flattened out for clearance on the bottom of the oil channel, so maybe it's not as bad as I thought. It is reasonably thick, but I'd still take my time and try to take off as little as possible. Don't...
You'd have to be really careful with grinding on that portion that. That is the main oil galley that runs front to back. I gouged mine up pretty good when my rod let go and fortunately didn't get deep enough to cause a problem, but if you break through it the block is pretty much trash at that...
Pretty sure that's an 03 block, or if it's an 04 it's a really early one. That goofy fitting combo deal with the oil pressure and temperature sensor isn't there on my 04. I was pretty sure that was an 03 only thing. Though I agree that really shouldn't change anything about the rod and piston...
Let's go ahead and unban V-O-A. It's worthwhile to be able to discuss if needed and hopefully everyone can be respectful about it. If we start having problems we can always revert back.
You might still try resetting the adaptives on the car and seeing if they still end up at -20. I'm not sure how long it takes the long term trims to update, but if for whatever reason they got there before you ever put the new cats on it could be that they are just going to take a while to get...
I actually emailed Tremec a while back when the Castrol Syntorq was getting harder and harder to find to see what they recommended. They said something like Mobil 1 synthetic ATF was what was used in the vast majority of T56s. Admittedly the Viper is a little different than most in that it...
Do you have a tune on the car by any chance? I know when I put my cam in and was building the tune with Dan Lesser I would basically just drive the car around and send him the DRB III fuel trim tables every so often so he could balance the base map based off of the fuel trims to try to get them...
It's the other Viper Owner's Club that broke off from the VCA years ago. I'm not sure I agree with the censoring of the name either, but I could go either way on it. Don't exactly want to advertise, but then again it is a bit childish to block their initials all the same.
Good to know. Realistically hardware is hardware to some degree, so as long as stuff is "close enough" I tend to think it will do the job just fine. That being said, Mopar did do an excellent job in whatever coatings they picked for the hardware on the Viper, which is likely what makes them...
Those don't really surprise me too much since your battery was low. I believe the car learns the TPS readings and ranges, so it might just take a little driving for it to get back to normal. There might be a way to force a relearn procedure, but I'm not sure on the gen 5 as I haven't really...
Hmm, I'm interested what all they did on those for the oiling. I recently had them go through my short block after my second rod bearing failure and they did some oil mods for me while they were there. Wonder if it was the same thing they were doing back then.
Hardware is bizarre to me. My car had the bad habit of spitting out the screws around the fenders on the rear for some reason. They look like simple sheet metal screws, so figured not a big deal to replace them. Mopar wanted something like $7 per screw, which is just insane. Went to a local...
Very handy writeup, thanks! Even the singles are supposed to be rebuilt every so often based on what MCS has told me, though I've had mine on the car for years now and haven't yet bothered. I'm guessing I could probably soften the spring rates a tad if I really wanted a nicer ride, but have...
I think they might have the same issue as the singles I have in that the rebound and adjustment change at the same time with every click. I believe Prefix offers these in their upgrade package though, so guessing they must be at least somewhat decent shocks.
An interesting thought would be if the one side was running extra right and making the cat do more work and heat more, that could explain why the one side is expanding more than the other and hitting the back. I agree with others though that I would expect it to throw a code by that point.
The info was actually in the service manual, which I definitely recommend picking up if you plan to do a lot of work to your car. It's one of the best written manuals I've ever seen and does a really good job of not just telling you how to assemble and disassemble things, but also how the...
I have the MCS singles on my 04 and do think they are a very nice quality shock, but I also think they are a definitely a harsher ride than you would get with stock. Even cranked down they are moderately aggressive, though that might be more a function of the spring rates than the damping. I...
Stock amp should be under the passenger seat. Factory rating is 310W, but bigger thing is that it's 7 channel. In reality I think it's probably more accurate to call it a 5 channel with built in crossovers though. My car didn't have one when I first bought it, they had some huge 5 channel...
I was under the impression that the stock wheel was basically a Momo. You might check and see if their bolt setup is the same. I thought there was a semi-standard "6 bolt" steering wheel setup though, so it is a bit odd the Viper one is clocked differently. About the only other then I could...
Yeah, that is generally true. The problem I have is that with my cam and tune the car just doesn't really like any cats. They work by effectively burning any leftover fuel from combustion inside them. They were designed with a factory tune and components in mind, so while they still run hot...
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