I like the Corsa catback on our 97 GTS.
Wife likes the louder Borla catback on her 99 ACR and her 01 GTS.
Expect an unlimited number of other suggestions to follow !!
Since I now have a couple of free minutes, let me say that this is another case where a fuel delivery issue mimics quite well the alarm shut down scenario...on first glance.
This is the 2nd such issue that I have dealt with in the last 4 days. Both were Gen II Vipers with fuel pump relay...
Dan, sorry about your trouble.
For now, let's assume it is the alarm(ahough this may require a bit of dialog) and I will try to help you.
Feel free to call me. 317 402 9013
Please note that I have Viper meeting from Noon til 2PM EDT.
The hiss of one Bad Asp ??
I clearly remember the change one heard when switching to smooth tubes and K&N's on Gen I's (along with removing that "resonator" connecting the two stock intake tubes) and Gen II's.
The Viper Hiss !!
The factory fill for your Viper's power steering system was/is Mopar ATF+4.
Note: The 2006 Viper Service Manual (and ALL prior Service Manuals) says to avoid ATF's in the P/S ...though Dodge used ATF+4 in Viper P/S systems starting in model year 2004 through 2006, 2008-2010, and 2013-2017...
We all have a different threshold for flirting with potential automotive issues such as being stranded...but, admittedly, mine is low. That said, I would be eyeing a group 78 AGM battery...preferably one with a retail outlet nearby and a 4 year fully exchangeable warranty. ONE such battery...
The jump posts are fine for charging. I would start low are watch response...which also depends on the type of charger you are using.
Pause: sorry, I had an interruption.
I use several different chargers...some with digital readouts, some automatic depending on the situation. But, either way...
While there is a procedure for both resynchronizing and for reprogramming your fob, I doubt that will be necessary. I suspect your issue is related to wiring and or module.
Since the described alarm system behavior is often the prelude to getting stuck somewhere, many people choose to disable...
Not a fun task to tackle. Agree that you need to document the drain first...before you start the task of sorting source of said drain if found.
Aside from my own prejudices concerning add-on wiring misadventures, I would think that any and all stereo wiring connections may still be a good...
IF the drain is associated with the the harness coming of of that terminal, you should be able to detect it and measure it...and you might get lucky finding the culprit circuit pulling one fuse at a time from the fuse block. Had any fuses pop?
Also, there and at least half a dozen fusible links...
You will need to do the Ignition Off Draw (IOD) test at the battery.
With no abnormal draw, alarm off, doors closed, time out circuits off (about 2 minutes)...you can still expect to see up to a 30 milliamp continuous draw which is normal. If you look at the amp-hr of the usual flooded...
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