I have seen this happen a few times over the years. As before mentioned it is an RT/10 specific issue and happens where the filler neck connects to the tank. About a 8 hour plus job.
Exhaust heat has always been an issue with the Viper. Not many vehicle manufacturers encapsulate the exhaust system in the body. Those who do (like Austin Martin) have an elaborate exhaust ventilation system and numerous shields (many made from Inconel).
On the early Vipers, 1992-1993 your...
I have seen this type of failure before but only on engines that have had crankshaft issues or have been line bored incorrectly. Check the keyway to make sure it fits correctly.
I had an engine with an aftermarket crankshaft that caused this problem.
Check the front main bearing for excessive...
The front and rear sway bar links are a common replacement part on all 1992-2006 models. They tend to wear to a point that they have excessive play or bind up from lack of lubrication. The dust boots crack and the link ball ends dry up, causing them to go south.
The sway bar links are available...
The later short runner intake was a compromise, it lacks volume and was designed to fit under the hood. With the single throttle body design and short runners it is better for driveability and peak power, but the long runner Gen 1-2 manifold makes much more torque across the powerband.
When we...
The car could be going into spark knock and reducing the power. I have found at times the Roe tunes are setup for the fuel they run in Florida, which may be better than ours. Try to raise the octane level and see what happens.
Boy this is tricky. I have been able to save most of the cranks that had this issue. But I have had a couple that I had to remove and repair the crankshaft. To be honest the best lubricant I have ever used for stuck bolts is kerosene and motor oil mixed together.
There are several issues that can lead to the condition you describe. First make sure that the low speed and high speed fans are working. Also, inspect the fan relays housed in the small fuse box to the front of the big fuse box (PDC) under the hood on the drivers side. Pull both relays out and...
You really need to pull out the clutch and inspect it as well, that should be the starting point with the age and mileage of the car. Then work your way out. I have found with that mileage and year, the problem may be the clutch. These systems are hard to bleed as well, requiring a pressure...
The engine will often have smoke or steam after after a clean, when using simple green its best to do it on a cold engine and just spray it on and wipe it off. For show car results, spray the painted engine parts and wheel surround with Protect-All or with a non-glossy detail spray. Then go back...
Re: Failed State Inspection ... rear and front tie rods/ rack and pinion; cheapest pa
These are some common issues, good they found them. The steering rack an be rebuilt or the inner rods replaced. The rear inner toe link are found at VPA or your dealer.
You can makes changes to the computer calibration that reduces decel fuel and remove most the popping. The side effect is more off throttle engine braking. You can also go the other way and shoot flames on shifts and deceleration with an random sonic boom.
Sorry Steve, hope I did not steer anyone in the wrong direction. I was talking about putting the factory front calipers in the rear. The combined piston size is larger and gives much more pedal travel. Some folks have asked about correcting this, which requires a new bore size on the master...
I depends on how you drive, but expect 30k on the stock clutch before pedal effort gets heavier and engagement less smooth. Highway cars can go a lot longer. If you drag race, they can go anytime.
The Gen 1 controllers are tuneable. I do not yet advertise on this forum as my webpage is still in progress, but would be happy to help you with this. Feel free to PM.
Do you have a new master cylinder to go with this kit? I found the pedal travel with this arrangement to be a little excessive (front calipers in the rear.) Thks.
This is normal and I have seen it on other cars that use a separate parking brake caliper. The parking brake pads ride on the rotor all the time, the inner pad does not get much airflow and the way the caliper slides there is a bit more pressure on the inner pad.
If you get a new set of pads...
Its a good idea to put some masking tape around the u-joint cups so they do not fall off. Also make sure you replace all the axle straps and bolts, they are one time use.
On a stock engine we saw 6-7 rwhp with the BBK throttle body. You do lose some off idle response. Good for engines with a cam change and higher compression.
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