Re: the electrical switches on your driver’s door. I suspect the wiring harness between the door and the door jam. Slide the rubber corrugated boot concealing the wiring and check for broken wires. It’s very common problem. I cut my corrugated covering and spliced, soldered in more flexible waiting.
My car on the driver’s side window did the same thing. There were broken wires in the flexible rubber tube between the door and the door jam. Replaced with more flexible wire and it’s been working for over 10 years.
It’s mostly something related to your repairs assuming it was running fine before you started making repairs. I suggest you begin by starting the car. Let it warm up. Then while the engine is warm and running, remove each spark plug wire. Be sure to use insulated gloves and insulated wire...
That's what I thought. It's just a two pass U-tube heat exchanger and the lines are the same diameter. Thanks for the info. I can see why they use braided SS hosing. The hoses had several badly wore spots.
Does anyone know if it matters which braided SS lines from oil cooler go which return on filter housing and/or oil pump housing? I had new hoses made because one was leaking. The hose shop may have switched lengths, but not sure.
http://www.mopar.com/pdf/viper/00sr.PDF
I tried finding a parts manual for your car, but no luck.
Here are two other links you might find helpful.
http://www.mopar.com/pdf/viper/02sr.PDF
http://www.mopar.com/pdf/viper/00sr.PDF
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