Its a scary feeling for sure. I'm a viper tech at my dealership and may have to start looking at my exit strategy. The absurd amount of intricate failures in electrical and newer engines (i6) is really taking it's toll.
Fuel pressure is only half the battle. Fuel volume is also part of it. Do you have an inline filter? Has it been replaced?
Also, the symptoms sound very much like vapor lock in the fuel rails. Once the engine is up to temp, the rails are getting filled with vapor instead of fuel and acts like...
the gear you use for the pull can change things substantially. Different dynos read different parameters, if it was a heartbreaker dynodynamics it might read that low (usually 15-18% lower than a dynojet dyno)
Amazon. 2.5" polished piping and 2.5" couplers and clamps. $30. Unfortunately i don't have a nice clean pic of them, but here's a pretty blurry shot from a video i have of my car lol
I built a wood frame that hangs from the ceiling of my garage. it's hinged at the back so it folds downard, then put the top in place, then hinge it back up to the ceiling and latch it with a chain or whatever? I made small holes at the front where the front pegs rest in, and notches in the rear...
I had a similar issue with the center speaker crackling in my 98. Come to find out the R/C switch on the amp had made it's way to a middle "neutral" position which caused this. I toggled the switch a few times and then put it back securely into the "C" position and the crackling went away...
Definitely a tight fit, but if you push the cover into the driver side first and all the way in, the right side should just slide in at the passenger side.
If you have the oem bag for the soft top, it should keep vibrations from rubbing holes into the canvas. PLUS the oem bag has the nifty...
I started working on my Gen 2 double din conversion. Got a mgw short shifter and sneaky Pete shift knob to go with it. And new ES trans mount and billet bracket. And ipsco PS pulley kit.
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