ACR intake, should I upgrade?

[ElDiablo Viper]

Guys, I know that is hot but I have a mod fever

Right now I have s tubes with K&N (ACR package), Corsa and no cats. Should I upgrade the intake?

 

[red98GTS]

Upgrade the intake.....uhhhh...I'm lost. Help me out here. What upgrade would that be??? pete the (lost) ex glass guy

 

[ElDiablo Viper]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by red98GTS:
Upgrade the intake.....uhhhh...I'm lost. Help me out here. What upgrade would that be??? pete the (lost) ex glass guy

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


I have seen some people remove the plastic cover to get more air. I don't know if this is worth anything. Is ACR intake the the best that we can do?

 

[Snake Bitten]

You could remove it entirely, bolt in a SC...that would bring down the fever...for a while...

 

[Viper Wizard]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ElDiablo Viper:
Guys, I know that is hot but I have a mod fever

Right now I have s tubes with K&N (ACR package), Corsa and no cats. Should I upgrade the intake?

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The Intake Manifolds are all the same on GENII's.
To help your fever: Super Charger from Roe Racing!!

 

[JonB]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ElDiablo Viper:
...Right now I have s tubes with K&N (ACR package), Corsa and no cats. Should I upgrade the intake? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

You can spend $999 on an intake that will make no more HP than a de-baffled OE box for $269. You can also buy droop-snoot Hot Air Induction Systems that look cool, but **** hot air.

Your next step before needing to make the front end breathe much better is to make the motor breathe better: Headers or Roller-Rockers. Then you can add TBs, Honing, or more

 

[red98GTS]

Oh, THAT "intake"! I'm still not used to the air box being called an "intake". Usually, in the car world, the "intake" is the intake manifold, so you lost me there. Sorry. Same deal with the "shifter". Viper owners like to call the shift knob a "shifter". Throws me off sometimes. Anyway, I'd leave the air box alone if it were me. pete the not-so-lost ex glass guy now

 

[GASDOC]

Has anyone ever measured actual air intake temperatures comparing the cone droop snoop intakes (hot air?),to the standard airbox(cold air?).Its easy to read actual realtime temps while real world driving using an OBDII engine analyser interfaced to the car.I have one and did measure the intake temps while driving and it was very interesting(using the cones),I was too lazy to put the stock box back on the compare,has anyone tried this.(Not sure if it makes any power,but the BTR intake looks and sounds very cool.)

 

[Matt M PA]

I cut out the rain baffle on my car. (I also bought an extra forward section of the box so I can put it back if I wanted to.) Anyhow, now when you look into the NACA, you see the filters, instead of the baffle. Using common sense, one would think that while it may not be a huge increase...it surely must help to some degree.

 

[FUSCUCLA1]

Gen I Rts do not have a baffle. The airbox is all open, instead its routed downwards to draw air from the open grill below. I am interested to know if the cones do help or add HP. How much more hotter can the air be?

 

[Jack B]

The problem with the cone drawing warm air can be fixed. The solution has some very positive affects. A plate running from the frame cross brace to the top of the radiator effectively isolates the warm air stream from the cones.

On a Gen I the plate can run straight across. The Gen II cross brace is exactly two inches below the top of the radiator, therefore, there must be a two inch kick in the plate.

Both the Gen I and Gen II have a problem with maintaining proper airflow thru the radiator due to high pressure to the rear of the radiator (see explanation of Roe's front air dam relief kit). I recently cut the hole in the air dam, but, did not finish the kit. I left off the sheet metal that closes up the area under the radiator (it looks like a skid plate,I planned to finish it later). Before I installed the sheet metal, I added my upper plate to isolate the cones from the warm air. The result was a decrease of ten degrees in operating temp at cruise.

The plate also makes a wet N2O install much easier and look better/neater. I will try to include pic's of the plate with and without the N2O.

You must be registered for see images

 

[TOOOFST]

Jack's got it right except the NOS plate.The only way to go is TOOFAST NOS,Dyno proven with looks to kill!