Adjusting ACR shocks

SNKBYT

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Could someone please help me with the adjustment on 1999 ACR shocks. What is the std factory setting? How do you adjust the dampening and the rebound? Is it the same for front and rear? What are the best setting for Auto-x? What are the best setting for drag racing? Anyone who has adjusted these shocks and or tried different setting please chime in. Thanks Tim
 

Schulmann

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Setting mainly depends on how you drive, speed and road conditions.

For instance in Quebec roads are bad.
I set my front and rear shocks to the highest position available. I can slightly turn the shocks when the car is fully lifted. The important thing is to have the same setting on the left and right sides.

Front and rear shocks doesn't have to have the same setting (in my opinion)what is important is to have the same setting on left and right side.

I have tried the hardest setting but the car got very unconfortable.

I think as long as your speed is below 140mph and you mainly drive on street just set the shocks to the highest (soft) position. Even on a track (Dallas speedway) my soft setting was perfect for my driving habits.

But the best thing is to test everything yourself ...
 
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SNKBYT

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How exactly do you do the adjustment on the shocks? Is it the same procedure for front and rear.
 

Schulmann

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1. Lift car
2. Remove wheels
3. Check sping compression
4. Unbolt security bolts on spring compression ring
5. Tighten or losen spring compression rings according to what you want to achieve
6. Check height of compression rings. Should be same on left and right sides
7. Tighten security bolts on spring compression ring
8. Put back your wheels
9. Test your car
 

Bugeater

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SNKBYT,
Since you have the Konis, my info applies to you.

Stock they typically come from the factory set at full soft.
Even full hard they are not bad in street driving conditions.
*Makes a huge difference in handling behavior! Was pleasantly surprised.

My setup was:
Shock Settings:
BUMP (Compression): 3 FRONT, 3 REAR.
Rebound: 2 FRONT, 4 REAR.

SOMEONE VERIFY WHETHER FULL SOFT IS ADJUSTING EYELETS CLOCKWISE OR COUNTER!
I cant remember...

You can use a small screwdriver, metal rod or precision tool (I used a dental pick!) to adjust your rebound and bump. You can see the eyeholes at the top of the base of the shock when your wheel is off. Using your tool of choice, you move the settings by shifting the eyelets left (clockwise looking down) or right. You can hear and feel the click when a setting has changed/moved.

Here is a writeup from a previous post. A how-to so to speak on the process of adjusting to your preference and driving style...I dont agree with the full soft for street, but thats a preference call...its a method another poster used. I started with Paul's advice, and tweaked it based on road conditions.

(1)Set the bump and the rebound to full soft on both front and rear shocks. Drive
around to get the feel of the car. This is probably where you want the shocks for
street driving.

(2)Leave rebound settings on full soft and stiffen the bump settings by 2 clicks on
both front and rear. Continue stiffening the bump settings by 2 clicks until the car
is crashing over the bumps in the road or the ride feels too harsh for your liking.
When this happens, soften the bump by one click. If it's still too harsh of a ride,
go back another click to the soft side, etc. and stop adjusting when you are happy.
You may find that the bump settings you like are different from front to rear. It
wouldn't surprise me if you end up with the rear one or two clicks softer than the
front.

(3)With bump settings fixed where you like them in step 2, begin stiffening the rebound
by 2 clicks at a time. The rebound will mainly effect the amount of body roll
(stiffer is less body roll). Keep going stiffer by 2 clicks until you don't like the feel,
then back off 1 or 2 clicks. Again, you may like different settings in front than in rear.

Spend some time learning how to adjust the shocks to your style of driving and the
dividends will be huge. They will significantly change the feel of your car. This should
be done on a track rather than the street, so you can drive the car closer to its limits.
 
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SNKBYT

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Thanks, Bugeater for the reply. Is the top collar for the rebound or for the bump/dampeming?
 

99GTSACR

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I just installed the standard Koni shocks/springs in order to send my ACR adjustable Koni's to Truechoice for rebuild. The adjustable Koni 2812 makes a large differance in the cars handling and feedback. I dont like the standard GTS shocks at all. I even turned up the rebound and the feedback is not even close to the 2812's.

Koni recommends rebuilding these 2812 shocks every 15,000 miles so I purchased some standard shocks so I could at least drive the snake while they are being rebuilt.

Truechoice charges $95.00 each plus parts for the rebuild which is a bargain considering the cost of new ones.
Also they Dyno each shock to make sure they are in spec.

My final numbers on the adjustment were:

Front:
Bump 3
Rebound 2

Rear:
Bump 4
Rebound 5
 

99GTSACR

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Thanks, Bugeater for the reply. Is the top collar for the rebound or for the bump/dampeming?


The B and R are stamped next to each adjuster as well as the + and -.

Also remember they are 8 adjustment positions for each. The stop at - being 1 and the stop at + being 8
 
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