Check Engine Light - Apex Solution

[LTHL VPR]

Glad to hear it's working great for you. We have sold over 20 kits to Viper owners so far!
Kit comes complete for an easy, snap in installation.
-Wayne

 

[MES]

I to have the o2 sims and they work fine. Also a bit of constructive feedback to Wayne. Make the wires shorter and come up with a better mounting place. There is no need to have 18" of wire, it's very hard to find a place to put it all. I had to wrap it around the frame, tie it into knots to keep it away from the exhaust/suspension. I spent 5 minutes installing the sims then one hour trying to mount it out of the way.

 

[ACR Joe]

I had the Snakebox installed earlier today; my car has a complete Belanger header/cat-back without cats. Only about 30 miles of driving, but thus far no surging at low engine speeds and the nasty exhaust smell has largely been eliminated (probably due to a screwy a/f ratio). The tech cleared the codes, but within a few miles the c/e light came back on. I was anticipating that the light would return due to low front O2 sensor temperature; a problem that the Snakebox will not cure. I intend to wrap the collectors before relocating the front O2 sensors; I consider the latter to be a less elegant and compromising solution.

So if the Snakebox has cured the c/e light and faults attributable to no cats, and I guessing that it has, I'm satisfied with the results. I need to do more to achieve a total solution, however. Prospective headers buyers should read this thread with interest.

 

[JonB]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ACR Joe:
I had the Snakebox installed earlier today; my car has a complete Belanger header/cat-back without cats. Only about 30 miles of driving, but thus far no surging at low engine speeds and the nasty exhaust smell has largely been eliminated... The tech cleared the codes, but within a few miles the c/e light came back on......So if the Snakebox has cured the c/e light and faults attributable to no cats, and I guessing that it has, I'm satisfied with the results. I need to do more to achieve a total solution, however. Prospective headers buyers should read this thread with interest.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Joe......readers would probably like to know THE YEAR of your ACR. And I'd like to know if you mean that you have 30 miles on the catless Belanger System or 30 miles on the O-2 sims...or both? The sims package has never promised to fix anything but the catless-caused light and surging. Perhaps your Belanger O-2 bungs are 'misplaced' ?

 

[ACR Joe]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by JonB - PartsRack:
Joe......readers would probably like to know THE YEAR of your ACR. And I'd like to know if you mean that you have 30 miles on the catless Belanger System or 30 miles on the O-2 sims...or both? The sims package has never promised to fix anything but the catless-caused light and surging. Perhaps your Belanger O-2 sims are 'misplaced' ?

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

John:

My ACR is a 1999. I've had the complete Belanger system on the car for a few months and a few thousand miles. The Snakebox has only been tested for 30 miles thus far.

What are Belanger O2 sims? Are you referring to something that replaces the front O2 sensors or perhaps modifies the signal to fool the ECU?

RSVP .....

 

[JonB]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ACR Joe:
My ACR is a 1999. I've had the complete Belanger system on the car for a few months and a few thousand miles. The Snakebox has only been tested for 30 miles thus far.......What are Belanger O2 sims? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I mis-wrote..should have said BUNGS, not sims

 

[ACR Joe]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by JonB - PartsRack:
I mis-wrote..should have said BUNGS, not sims

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Indeed from what I've gathered, the bungs are not in the proper location. They are located in the collector as opposed to one of the primary tubes closer to an exhaust port. I do not like the relocation solution and believe it may compromise performance. I intend to try header wrap on the collector first. I want the fix to be visually innocuous and not detract from the appearance of the headers. If this doesn't work, I will extend the wrap upward and as a last resort, relocate the ****. Again, prospective header buyers take heed.

 

[Chuck 97 GTS]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ACR Joe:
I intend to try header wrap on the collector first.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

FYI - Belanger specifically warns customers not to wrap the headers.

 

[LTHL VPR]

We have tested a couple different headers on the dyno with the O2 position in the collector and in the primaries. Power and air-fuel ratio did not change. Everything worked great!
As JonB and ACR Joe states, the Snake Box cures the problems associated with removing the cats ONLY; it does not cure the O2 heater codes in later GENIIs.

We have sold an O2 relocation kit to a couple VCA members that includes 2 stainless O2 plugs, 2 stainless bungs, and a tool for installing the plug. However, we recommend that you use a reputable exhaust shop for cutting a new hole and welding in the new O2 ****.

Hope this helps!

 

[8AVETTE]

Please state where Belinger is saying to move the **** to.I moved mine to a tube just in front of the starter about 10" down from head and I still get the light every 3-4 hundred miles. I also noticed that now that the outside temp is a lot cooler in the morning the light came on sooner.

 

[ACR Joe]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Chuck 97 GTS:
FYI - Belanger specifically warns customers not to wrap the headers.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Chuck, I was not aware of that point. I'm wondering if only wrapping the collector section might likewise be a problem?