Clear Bra FIx?

[Vipuronr]

I have a clear bra on front portion of hood and inside vents, was done by original owner in (very hot) Florida. Possibly time and the heat caused a little lifting/bubbling on both ends in front of the wheel well.

I have read a number of posts about taking off a clear bra and the chance you take with lifting some of the paint as well. I do not want to risk hurting the paint, but do not like the areas where it is lifting.

Question: Is there a company that makes the glue that is put on the clear bra...possibly the bra companies themselves as a means of touching up? I know it is probably a long shot, but seems to me that a company like 3M might have an adhesive similar to the one used on the back of a clear bra, that I can apply, squeegee and smooth out as a fix.

Any shot? Not willing to chance having to repaint the hood, so if there isn't, I will have to live with it. Would surprise me, though, that there wouldn't be this type of adhesive in this day of technology!

This is the driver's side...only a little on the passenger side:

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Thanks all.

Peter

 

[texas_venom]

I am an installer and have never heard of anyone trying to add glue to lifting film. The problem is that when film starts to lift it gets contaminates underneath it. So laying it back down will only trap dirt under the film and it will not look very good.

Now if your paint job is factory then you wont have any issues with the paint lifting. The majority of the stories regarding the paint pulling off is because of very poor paint jobs and/or people applying film to fresh paint that hasnt fully cured. I have applied film on well over 100 Vipers throughout the years and I can tell you that the Viper has one of the best paint jobs out there from the factory. I have never seen or heard of any issues with paint being lifted on a Viper. So I beleive you are safe if you would like to remove it. I would recommend taking it to an installer and having them remove it but if you want to do it yourself you can. Make sure the film is warm... a hairdryer or parking it in the sun will be sufficient... and pulling the film slowly ata 90 degree angle from the surface. This will minimize the amount of adhesive left on the vehicle. be prepared top have some adhesive remover ready though as you will probably have some left on the paint... and if your film is 3M you will have quiet a bit. All it will take is a little extra elbow grease.

If you have any questions or would like to speak with me about it PM me your number and I will give you a call.

 

[Vipuronr]

I had a feeling that is the answer I'd get, but I just had to ask. In terms of need, I don't really use the car much (bought last May with 5,200 miles, now has 6,400), so I do not have a real need for it on the car (though I would prefer to have it if it was good). Unfortunately, I bought the car on the internet and it was impossible to see that in the pictures (would never do that again, either).

I used to work in a body shop and do not see signs of the hood being repainted. I question the smoothness of the fiberglass on the sides as a potential sign of work. However, I wetsanded the entire car during the summer and it came out really nice. Also, had Chuck (Tator) inspect the car when I bought it and he did not see any signs of the car being hit. Said slight overspray under the hood was common for Vipers.

Okay, all that said, this would be a project for me during the upcoming summer....for the heat. I think trying to do it in the garage with a hair dryer would be questionable with the garage temp being pretty cold.

Thanks for the advice and offer to talk more. It is one of the few imperfections in this car and one reason why I never bother with shows.

Peter

 

[SA HEAT]

Make sure the film is warm... a hairdryer or parking it in the sun will be sufficient... and pulling the film slowly ata 90 degree angle from the surface. This will minimize the amount of adhesive left on the vehicle. be prepared top have some adhesive remover ready though as you will probably have some left on the paint... and if your film is 3M you will have quiet a bit. All it will take is a little extra elbow grease.

I used this same method and the Texas sun to pull 3M film off and it worked perfectly with very little residue left on the paint....wax removed the little that was left. The 90 degree part is important and just make sure you go slow.

 

[Vipuronr]

Thanks Heat.....yes, having been in Texas quite often on business, I agree that your heat (ha ha) would be very helpful!

Definitely going to wait for the summer....was just in the garage and I needed a sweatshirt...must be about 40 degrees in there. I'd like to heat it, but its just not worth the investment.

Thanks.

Peter

 

[TAXIMAN1]

I am an installer and have never heard of anyone trying to add glue to lifting film. The problem is that when film starts to lift it gets contaminates underneath it. So laying it back down will only trap dirt under the film and it will not look very good.

Now if your paint job is factory then you wont have any issues with the paint lifting. The majority of the stories regarding the paint pulling off is because of very poor paint jobs and/or people applying film to fresh paint that hasnt fully cured. I have applied film on well over 100 Vipers throughout the years and I can tell you that the Viper has one of the best paint jobs out there from the factory. I have never seen or heard of any issues with paint being lifted on a Viper. So I beleive you are safe if you would like to remove it. I would recommend taking it to an installer and having them remove it but if you want to do it yourself you can. Make sure the film is warm... a hairdryer or parking it in the sun will be sufficient... and pulling the film slowly ata 90 degree angle from the surface. This will minimize the amount of adhesive left on the vehicle. be prepared top have some adhesive remover ready though as you will probably have some left on the paint... and if your film is 3M you will have quiet a bit. All it will take is a little extra elbow grease.

If you have any questions or would like to speak with me about it PM me your number and I will give you a call.

agree 1000% with your comments. THAT SAID, many (probably over 50% at this point, due to age). Gen2. Vipers have had, at least some paint work, ranging from major accident repair, to respray facias,bumpers,hoods,side sills..

IF you pull that clear bra off. Be prepared to repaint that piece. You got a 50/50 shot it was previously painted. Unless you are original owner and know otherwise. If your not prepared to paint, don't touch it. good luck.

 

[Vipuronr]

Taxi....exactly where I am!

I am not the original owner and bought the car from a middleman between myself and the original owner. Only know what the Carfax report says, which is nothing with regard to accidents (I know the inaccuracy of Carfax), and what Chuck said when he inspected the car. I know or, at least think, the trunk was resprayed, but no signs of body damage.

Since I really don't want to incur the cost of respraying, or take the chance that it doesn't match exactly (I worked in a body shop years back and have a good eye for color. It would drive me nuts if the hood color was even off a little), I'm not sure I am willing to chance pulling it off or even having someone pulll it off.

So.......the reason for my original question of possibly repairing the clear bra that's on the car, is to avoid costly and aggrevating repainting of the hood. Even if the repair is not perfect, if there is something I can do to make it more acceptable (less bubbly) than it is now, that would be great.

To Texas, while I totally agree with your advice...taking into considertion the above, I am less concerned with contaminates, if I can improve what it looks like.

Does anyone know who manufactures the adhesive that is used on the clear bra products and whether it is available....I still think that might be a solution, if I can get some. Seems like the same or similar adhesive that is used on window tinting.

Look at it this way....if I try to remove the clear bra and it ruins the paint, the money I would have to (unnecessarily) spend to repaint would have covered (mostly) the cost of a new cat-back exhaust system. Trying to manage my finances conservativesly, I'd much rather have the cat-back system.

Thanks to all....great comments and advice.

Peter

 

[eucharistos]

seems like a patch would do better than a repair

must be good with an x-acto knife, but would have new material and just a line, which you have in other spots already

 

[white out]

I would suggest going on l4p.com and finding an expert installer near you.

I am in the same boat and am having an expert (autolavish) remove mine because it has started to turn to yellow. It has done its job and should be replaced or removed so the beautiful front can be see.

Nick

 

[Vipuronr]

Thanks Nick. Again, for me, the question is whether the hood was resprayed sometime in the past, which means there is a risk that removing the clear bra could also lift the paint. As said above, not looking to incur the cost of respraying my hood, only to run the additional risk of the paint not matching. My car is a Florida car and about 11 years old. Though the car has been completely wetsanded and polished, still don't know the effect of time and sun on the paint shade.

Those are my concerns and I think the outweigh the small issue I have on the side. Exactly the reason why I was trying to see if there was a "fix" available.

As for the X-Acto knife, not sure want to risk cutting into the paint and possibly not matching the cut exactly with the new piece...hence, looks worse.

Its a small problem, as the car is very nice otherwise. Just trying to take care of any small issues during the winter when car is not driven often.

So, still searching if the adhesive they use (factory applied to film), is also available separately so I can do some form or repair/clean & reapply that area.

Thanks all.

Peter