Coolant Temperature Question

Matt M PA

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It is about 70 outside today, and while moving, the gauge needle pointed straight up. While stopped for a minute, it would raise to the mark to the right of middle..or just a hair past. Then the fan comes on and it begins to move down. Maybe this is the normal range I just never noticed before? Thanks!
 

King GTS

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When someone says that it goes to "210 - 215 when it's hot." This I understand is normal. But is the gague in the yellow at 210 - 215? Or does it never go to the yellow unless there's something wrong?
 

J DAWG

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I have been wondering the same thing about my viper. I am not accustomed to a car running in these temp. ranges. I see that it is normal, but should i look into getting a lower degree thermostat. I am in the South an it is only gonna get hotter.
 

red98GTS

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Personally, I wouldn't mess with the thermostat. These cars are made to run at a certain temp. range. In Phoenix, we typically have summers in the 100-110+ range. My car has never overheated even in the summers here. Typically, just changing the thermostat in these cars does not lower the operating temp. anyway. Making sure your car has fresh coolant and no air in the system seems to be more important. pete the ex glass guy and hot rodder
 

shifter

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If you had to change the thermostat anyway, then I would definitely get a 180 or 185 degree thermostat. The issue is that the cooling fans are set to turn on at 195, which is the thermostat open temp. This leads to excessive fan cycling in normal driving (not on a track) by not giving the radiator the opportunity to remove heat from the coolant first. With a 185 degree thermostat, the cooling fan will run less.

Since it is requires significant work to replace the thermostat, the temperature difference (and most importantly the resultant performance increase or efficiency) you would notice during normal driving isn't worth pulling the intake, IMHO.

Another item to note is the optimum operating temperature of the heads in conjunction with your Powertrain Control Module logic for A/F ratio's and timing. Many have stated that the aluminum heads run better (by better I assume 'more efficient' or 'higher HP') at a slightly warmer temp than iron heads. I haven't seen the data myself and would again concede that if such a benefit did occur, the thermostat has little to do with it when in the situation where a slight advantage like that could be measured (racing).

Lastly, with a 185 degree Thermostat your heater performance will be reduced at cold start-up. I know most people wouldn't care too much if they lost some heat, but it is a fact worth mentioning.
 

Tomer

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If you have an FSM (good to have if you don't) consult the relevant section. My 96 FSM has good detail with pics of the temp gauge showing how much travel in the needle is NORMAL. It says that 5/8 travel is normal. The drawings help put my mind at ease about my car's temps.

Tomer
96 RT
 
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