DIY Roe Dual Walbro Pump Installation For Gen II's

[eabrillon1978]

How to DIY Roe Dual Walbro Pump Installation For Gen II's

I ran into some fuel issues when going to the 10lb pulley setup on my 98 GTS with a 2.4L Roe. I purchased this dual 255 Walbro kit from Roe last year in case I needed it and now I do. Here is my little install thread to use as a guide if you decide to do your own one day. I didn't install any fancy AN lines or fittings just used what was in the kit. It took me about 4 hours to do everything from removal to install. I still have some wiring to do and testing the pumps, but will post that after I finish. Some of the pumps in other years are different. Mine used a Walbro, some use a Carter. You may have to do some things different, so use this as a guide. Not sure how many baskets are the same as a 98.

If anyone has any tips.. please feel free to comment. I'm pretty much finished up, but maybe it'll help the next person.


Tools needed:

Drill
Drill Bits 1/8", and 3/8"
Hole Cutter 1 3/4"
Channel lock Pliers
Pliers
Small Screw Driver (flathead)
Regular Phillips
Large Flathead
Sand Filled hammer
Dikes
Needle Nose Pliers
Scribe
Dremel to cut the inserts for the clamp.

Other items needed
Small wire ties
2 band clamps
JB weld


Here is a pic of how the pump sits in a GTS when you get the cover off. I forgot to take a pic of it when I first removed it, so you get an after shot
- the red and black wires will not be there when you first remove it - Remove the clamp with some needle nose pliers. I just twisted it around a bit and it broke apart. The large black vent hose was removed with some channel locks, not the easiest hose to remove, but to get it off, lightly grip the hose and move it back and forth. The fuel line you just pull back the blue plastic clip and squeeze it with your finger. The lock will release. For the wire clip, just slide the red locking tab and then squeeze the top clip and it'll release. Take a large flathead screwdriver place it on the nubs on the ring of the pump and hit the back of the screw driver pushing the ring in a counterclockwise direction with a sand-filled hammer to prevent any damage to the ring. After removed you have to angle out the pump slightly to avoid damaging the float.

A little side note, before you pull the pump out, blow off the top to remove any loose debris so that it doesn't fall in the tank. I just used a little air blower. Then put a rag over the hole to avoid any debris going in the tank after removal.

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Shots of the pump removed. Mine was a little dirty on top , just plugged all the hose connections and rinsed it off to clean it up a bit.

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Good as new!!!

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Here is the kit from Roe. It comes with everything you need except for 2 band clamps, a couple of wire ties, and JB Weld. It's complete other than that. The primary pump will function as the stock. The secondary pump connects to a switch that activates with at 3lbs of boost.
The instructions were not really complete due to variety of different pumps out there, but with the basic info and a little help seeing images from peoples post on there fuel setups, I was able to figure it out how to make it all work.

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First step is to remove the float by taking off the black clip and then gently removing the rod with a scribe

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Remove clamp from the black hose inside the basket that connects to the the fuel pressure regulator. I used some needle nose piers to kind of twist and break the clamp. Be gentle because the end of the pressure regulator is kind of small and you don't want to break it.

Pull the top off by inserting a small flathead on the locks on the sides. There is 3 of them. This was a little tricky but it came off eventually. Once you get it up a little, remove the connector from the bottom and then pull the top off.

After you pull the top off, grab the wire connector. Remove the two center wires for the connector. These go to the sending unit. When looking at the terminal you will notice there is some numbers stamped. I just marked the wire with some dots so I know the location. To remove them, pull out the green clip with some needle nose pliers by grabbing the center section and pulling out. This will give you access to the release clips. Use a scribe to lift the tabs are release the clips, pull the 2 center wires out from the connector. Then pull those wires out of the little hole they run through from the basket.

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I guess there is a limit for pics for each post. I'll post more in a bit.. Have plenty.

 

[Camfab]

Keep'm coming, great info.

 

[eabrillon1978]

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After that look at the bottom section of the basket and you'll see what I will refer to as the "cage." This little booger was trickey to take out, but I had a little trick that worked like a champ. If you look into the small hole you pulled the wires from, there are 2 little clips. What I ended up doing was taking 2 paperclips spreading them apart and using one end. Using a small screwdriver, I kinda pryed one of the clips from the bottom hole and once I had if moved far enough I stuck one of the paperclips in between the locking tab and clip. I did the same of the other side. Hold both clips and pull the cage up and it will come out. The pump will come out with the cage.

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My year viper uses a Walbro for the stock pump. If you have another year viper, it may be different. The only difference that I noticed between the 2 were one is a single stage (the 255) and the stock is a dual stage) Other than that body was the same, the bottom a little different, but the connector was the same. ***Important*** The polarity is reversed in the aftermarket connector vs the stock. I just pulled the tabs on the connector, same used to remove the sending unit wires and swapped them around. This way no wires had to be spliced or cut in the basket.

Here is a pic to compare the stock to the Walbro 255.

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I had to drill 2 holes for the pumps to sit in to be able to feed from the bottom. I used a 1 3/4" hole saw for mine. The holes were a little big, but still came out nicely. When you drill the holes, you want them to come as close to the wall of the basket as possible. This helps the pumps stand strait when you go to clamp them in. I place the pump in the hole and marked a center line and then marked a spot for where to cut the slits for the clamps. I used a small dremel with a little grinding wheel to cut mine. it worked perfect.

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[eabrillon1978]

Now take the 2 band clamps and feed them through the slits. I drilled a small 3/8 hole to get access to tighten them when you install the pumps.

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This is what the pumps look like installed in the basket, These are temp installed.

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This is the setup of the hoses. Install the stock wire terminal into the pump that is going to be your primary. In the kit there is a T fitting. The strait part will be connected to the primary and the "T" will go to the secondary pump.
This hose is supplied in the kit along with the formed hose.

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T fitting and install on the strait end. cut a small section of hose about 4 inches long and intall on the bottom of the strait. Do not connect to the pump yet. Temp install the pumps and take the stock pump and place beside the basket. This will help you determine how long to cut the hose of the bottom section that connects to the primary pump. Take the pumps back out and install the hoses and clamps. Quick tip.. lubricate the end with some water to help the hose install easier.

Just some pics to help you see how the hose sits in the baskets with the pumps and how I routed it.

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[Mutts02GTS]

Nice write-up, how does it perform? You stationed at Kirtland AFB? Caught a glimpse of the uniform and your location. If you are I am curious if you worry about other dorm rats messing with your car, they be jealous people in those rooms! Lol. Take care. Jeff. P.S. you a maintainer? Just saw the desk drawer for 350 tags?? f-16 guy here.......

 

[eabrillon1978]

Bring the 2 wires from the sending unit back through the hole they were originally in and arrange all the wires so they will not rub on any clamps or have any sharp bends. Install the sending unit wires back into the original locations of the factory connector. I used a couple of wire ties to help hold the wires from the secondary pump in place.

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Now you have to drill 2 small holes for the secondary pump wires to pass through the top. I drilled mine as seen below with an 1/8" drill bit.

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Were ready for the top section to go on. Install the primary wire connector to the bottom, intall the 2 wires though the holes just drilled and connect the formed hose to the fuel pressure regulator.

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You can either JB weld the wires that pass through the hole now or later. I did mine later. when you apply it, you want to make sure you move the wire in an out a couple times to get a good seal around the wire.


I forgot to mention in the earlier post that I had to debur some of holes that I drill and blow out the debris.

Now reinstall the little float and little black clip that you removed.

If you haven't done so already, remove that little metal cup from the bottom of the canister.

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Before you reinstall the pump you need to install the socks/filters on the bottom. These go on a little snug. but put them in a configuration so that they overlap as little as possible.

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[eabrillon1978]

After this you are ready to reinstall your pump. Take the seal that you removed from the pump and ensure it's clean. Put it around the pump from the bottom and then install the ring.

Slightly tilt the pump to avoid damaging the sending unit.

Now here's the tricky part. Press the pump down and make sure it's centered and carefully install the ring. The regulator, vent tube move so that you can reposition them to help ease the installation.

Now put start turning the ring until you can turn it anymore, it should turn easily at first for a few turns then get difficult. Once it gets difficult use the long flat tip screwdriver and sand filled hammer to tighten the ring. This took a while and I alternated between trying to turn it by hand and getting it with screwdriver. It will eventually tighten. The manual says to tighten it to 25 ft lbs if you have the special ring tool to tighten it. I just made sure it was tight and that the ring didn't turn when you hit it.

Now connect the large vent tube. What a pain!!! It went on, but didn't slip back on so easily. Take a band clamp and tighten and use it to secure the hose.

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This is it for now. I will post more this weekend when I test the pumps and get the wiring complete... Thanks for reading

Feel free to give any input...

 

[eabrillon1978]

Nice write-up, how does it perform? You stationed at Kirtland AFB? Caught a glimpse of the uniform and your location. If you are I am curious if you worry about other dorm rats messing with your car, they be jealous people in those rooms! Lol. Take care. Jeff. P.S. you a maintainer? Just saw the desk drawer for 350 tags?? f-16 guy here.......

I am unsure how it does just yet. I installed it in the tank today and still have to do the wiring for the secondary pump and test them out. I hope to finish by Sunday.
I'll then switch my pulley out to see if it works. I'll post how it does by next week. So I guess I'm busted.. Yes I am at Kirtland. I don't live in the dorms though, i'm off base. I hardly bring my car on base, just sit's in garage pretty much. I am a maintainer for heavies. I work in A/R for C-130's. As you can see from the pics, we had a pretty busy night going for us

 

[speedracervr4]

Great write up thanks for posting. I have the same setup on my 10lb roe.

 

[carbon777]

Very detailed write-up I'm sure it will help someone else in the near future.

 

[drlee50]

I have three pumps in my tank and i wired each up to separate switches. One to the ignition key and the other two to individual switches so I can tell if one goes bad. You can hear them but watching the fuel pressure, they each will blip the fuel pressure up a bit when you switch them on. just a way to make sure they are all working. some just wire em together. I prefered to have a way to test em individually. Just a thought for other diy-ers.

Great detailed write up!

 

[eabrillon1978]

Finally finished wiring yesterday. Came out great and car started fine. Now I just have to bump up my pulley and do some tuning.

My wires may look a little different due to some of the mods on the car. They are a rough idea how to set yours up.
First thing I did was find a place for the boost switch to activate the pump. It activates at 3 lbs of boost sending the ground to the pump.
I mounted mine under the cover beneath the fuse box with the supplied dual lock tape.

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I ran a hose off of a T fitting from my boost line that runs into my Boost Gauge and wired the one of the wires to ground.

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I ran the power wire from the jumper terminal and ran the relay up front as well. We have to run 2 wires to the back fuel pump from here. One wire will go to the ground wire on the secondary pump and the other will go to tap into the power wire on the primary pump. I ran under the brake booster and through the transmission tunnel up the fuel filter out to the Fuel pump hole. To get the wires to the fuel pump, I used some 1/4 inch poly tubing, jacked up the rear of the car and routed the tubing where the rear shock is. I just taped the wire to the tubing and pulled it all through when I had it routed how I wanted it.

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I ran a ground wire from the secondary pump to a beam in the car. I drilled a small hole and fitted it with a grommet and mounted the wire with a terminal. I fitted the pump wires with butt connectors to allow easy removal if ever need be. I also used a wire tap off of the factory pump power wire to connect the wire coming from the relay .

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[eabrillon1978]

Re: DIY Roe Dual Walbro Pump Installation For Gen II's ** Updated Wiring Pics***

Before I secured any wires I decided to make sure the pumps were make sure the pumps operate and to flush out any debris (if any) out of the pumps. To do this I took a couple wire terminals that I cut off of an old O2 sensor. I put those into the factory terminal to supply the power and ground and temp installed some termials to jump those wire to. I also connected a fuel hose to the fuel pressure regulator and ran it to an empty container for the fuel to go into. Had my wife turn the car to the accessory position a few times until the fuel came out clean and steady.

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Now remove the terminals and plug the connector and do the same to flush out the factory pump. Once all that is done and everything works I Remove the hose and connect the regulator to the factory fuel line. Connect the wires you routed through, Secure the wiring with wire ties for a clean install and clean everything up. Don't forget to push the slide clip on factory terminal.

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After cleaned I mixed up some JB Weld and put it on the wires that passed through the top. Make sure to pull the wired up and down a few times to get a good coating around the wires.

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I wired some an led to the pump to let me know when it kicks on. Basically to show me the switch is working. The red is for the pump the red is for the methanol injection.

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After everything is cleaned up and good to go. I verified I was getting good fuel pressure in the front. I have a gauge connected to a fuel line in connected at the fuel rail. When I first checked it I had 45 psi. I started the car turned it off rechecked and read good at 55 psi. I cycled it again to double check and it was right at 55 psi again. Good to go.

That raps it up. Just have to changed my pulley to the 10 pounder and do some logging.

 

[1TONY1]

I wonder where you got that mounting idea

The problem with that setup as I see it is that you are still going through the stock regulator which has an 1/8" orifice that all the fuel has to flow through. Will it be better ?? Probably, but there is only so much that can go through such a small hole.
If you ever decide to do AN fittings or at least not go through the regulator to get it flowing better then I recommend starting with a later model gen2 canister....I only found out a few weeks ago that they don't have all the crap/fittings in the top......only two compared to four. It would be TONS easier !!

For those that don't know, this is the fitting that the hose from the fuel pump/s goes on. Yes that's right !!! Amazing it would work with any car, a miracle it works with a Viper AND even some making up in the 700whp range !!

Two pennies:



El'cheapo ink pen insert....barely goes in.



Mine:

 

[eabrillon1978]

Yours setup is exactly how I figured out how to mount them!!

Thank you for letting me know that. I see why you set it up the way you did. It is amazing that the factory hole in the regulator is setup so small and still works.

Have a question. When you set yours up, did you just reinstall your factory regulator and just cap it off since you did not use it.

 

[1TONY1]

Yours setup is exactly how I figured out how to mount them!!

Thank you for letting me know that. I see why you set it up the way you did. It is amazing that the factory hole in the regulator is setup so small and still works.

Have a question. When you set yours up, did you just reinstall your factory regulator and just cap it off since you did not use it.

That's just something I saw on yours...you did good though.

My regulator is gutted and is now the return. Let me think though and look at something tomorrow.....seems like when I was doing all this and saw how the regulator worked, I "think" you may can feed into it the wrong way and it will still regulate the same. Meaning you could do large feed line ..... then back into the stock line for a return and not have to buy an aftermarket regulator.

I'll snap a picture tomorrow of a later gen2 canister top and post it. When I saw the difference I was ***

 

[eabrillon1978]

That would be awesome if that would work to route it that way. Question is, how would you set that up on a Roe with the ends of the rails into the tubes like that?

I'm interested to see those pics of the canister as well. Appreciate the info.

 

[1TONY1]

That would be awesome if that would work to route it that way. Question is, how would you set that up on a Roe with the ends of the rails into the tubes like that?

I'm interested to see those pics of the canister as well. Appreciate the info.

I think the easy way would be to come out of the canister and then just tee back into the factory regulator. It should bleed down to factory pressure and send the rest to the engine. I don't see any need to run the return back from the front. Back then I wanted to test this with fuel and a bucket .... I have a spare canister....I may have a fuel pump laying around.
The way my Roe set-up was: feed to the front into the aftermarket regulator......then from there one line to the tee into the rails and the other from the regulator went back into the factory line into the gutted factory regulator.

The part I forgot about was going the wrong way through the fuel filter While it works fine and is still going through the filter backwards today....if I had remembered before running it I would have done a new filter so as not to back flush any crap into the fuel tank. Granted, my filter had been changed when the Roe went on so it shouldn't have had much trash in it. A better way would be to make a filter bypass hose with the quick connects on it or even a clamped hose would work. Not sure that the return cares if it has a slight restriction there ??

 

[eabrillon1978]

I think the easy way would be to come out of the canister and then just tee back into the factory regulator. It should bleed down to factory pressure and send the rest to the engine. I don't see any need to run the return back from the front. Back then I wanted to test this with fuel and a bucket .... I have a spare canister....I may have a fuel pump laying around.
The way my Roe set-up was: feed to the front into the aftermarket regulator......then from there one line to the tee into the rails and the other from the regulator went back into the factory line into the gutted factory regulator.

The part I forgot about was going the wrong way through the fuel filter While it works fine and is still going through the filter backwards today....if I had remembered before running it I would have done a new filter so as not to back flush any crap into the fuel tank. Granted, my filter had been changed when the Roe went on so it shouldn't have had much trash in it. A better way would be to make a filter bypass hose with the quick connects on it or even a clamped hose would work. Not sure that the return cares if it has a slight restriction there ??

I'm going to try out my setup for about a month then I think I'm going to try that setup and see if it works.

I probably would have not thought about the inlet/outlet of the filter as well. I'll have to change it around while I'm under there when I do it. I'll post it up when I do everything and let you know if it works.