Fan Upgrade to a 97 GTS (LONG....PIX)

Tom F&L GoR

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Tony, I did a similar job, but replaced the radiator (warranty) and so the studs weren't a problem. I'm copying my notes here since there are part numbers others may want to have/see/keep:

I replaced my radiator under warranty. (Poor solder on left tank.) The part number for the radiator that came out of my ’94 is 4709201, which the dealer said was first superceded to P/N 4855123. P/N 4855123 has the same 6 threaded holes to mount the single fan, so it would indeed fit. However, it isn’t available anymore, and had also been superceded. The new radiator, P/N 4855123AB, has 5 studs in the radiator frame rather than the welded-in nuts, and they also aren’t in the same location- so now you cannot use your old fan.

The original fan, P/N 4682529, was an offset single fan with a fairly thick motor. The motor almost reaches back to the front sway bar. With the studs on the new radiator, there is not enough room to get the old fan over the studs, even if they did line up, because of the sway bar. The fix is a new fan (also provided under warranty since the “correct” radiator isn’t available) with a slightly larger, center mounted fan, P/N 4854720AA. You’ll also need nuts P/N 34201358 to attach the fan to the radiator.

Be careful if you’ve replaced the bolts holding down the air cleaner housing to the radiator frame. There is no relief hole, so a longer bolt will make contact and raise the ducting.

And to top if off, the new fan electrical connection is three flat blades; the old fan was three round prongs (same color code wires, though) so rather than go back and find out what to do next, I placed the old plug on the new fan.

The new fan is better – cools it down much quicker, it’s a little louder, and you’ll know when it kicks on because the lights dim! It took me about 4 weeks total to find out about the radiator part numbers, another 2 weeks to get the fan. And only 2.5 hours to do the job. Hope this helps someone down the road.
 

Gerald

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They switched it in late '98. Almost certain as my early 98 didn't have the upgraded fan. So I did what Tony did above. But instead of doing a nice neat job, I just yanked out the old fan. Came out in about 10 pcs.. Ask Antonio.. LOL!


Gerald
 

C O D Y

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Tony, the bolts do not need to be cut. They are threaded on both sides. Just put two nuts together on the bolt or use visegrips. They will come right out or should I say they would have come right out. I have a few laying around here somewhere.

Did you figure out what you are going to do on your trailer? Call me if you need the graphic we talked about.
 

JonB

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Tony, a great service to all 1992-1998.7 owners to post the particulars. Thanks ! We first revealed this 'running design change-upgrade' on this site back in late 1998.

Gen-1 retrofit is a bit trickier, as Tom stated.

Best of all: Under $170 bucks from several nice guys and one gal hereabouts. Back in 1998? $99 !!!
 

Gerald

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Question:

If someone was to remove the "mud flaps" on the new fan as Tony put in ( I also have put in an updated fan) would it help cooling as air would always be passing thru it???

Gerald
 

shifter

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Good idea replacing the fans, especially on 1995 vehicles and older. In 1995-1995 Siemens made some costly supplier changes to their brushed Engine Cooling Fan motors. Note the recalls on the Taurus, Mustang, BMW, Contour... etc. The new unit is a Bosch unit with much higher airflow and better NVH (as if it mattered) but still a Siemens motor, but one with the supplier issues fixed. Swap that heavy Copper/Brass radiator for a 36mm dimpled tube aluminum and you'll really be running cool.
 

shifter

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The mud flaps are actually there to allow ram air to pass throught the radiator. At a certain vehicle speed (45 on most domestic cars) the engine cooling fan shuts down except for extreme conditions (A/C head pressure or critical fluid temps). The flaps seal off the radiator to prevent hot re-circulatiing air from passing through the model to help A/C performance at Idle conditions. At speed, the flaps allow ram air.

If you remove them, your A/C performance at idle and engine cooling will suffer.
 

shifter

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Received a few e-mails, so let me clarify. The Engine Cooling Fan motor in the pre-1998.5 Viper is not being recalled for any reason. The Siemens motor is fine, and wasn't subject to the supplier issues that are affecting the Ford vehicles.

The point I wanted to make is that the new fan module from Bosch is a higher quality, better performing module. That's all.
 
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