Sniper
Enthusiast
All 4 wheels-$150!
Getting wheels polished VERY CHEAP!!!
- Thread starter Sniper
- Start date
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
Where? The shipping to MO will cost almost that much.
Ron
Enthusiast
<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">Polishing is the easy part. Will they powder clear coat? </FONT f>
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
???????? I thought it was just a spray clear coat? And while on this subject, what is best, to leave them without a clear coat after being polished or to go ahead and spray?
Mike
Mike
OP
OP
Sniper
Enthusiast
You guys who are asking about the milky look, I don't really know what that looks like, but my wheels are getting dull looking especially when I just put on a new set of polished aluminum side tips.
From what I understand of polishing the wheels is once you polish them(which takes off the clear coat), you can't put clear coat back on. You have to polish them every so many months depending on how much you drive your car.
A local shop here in St. Joseph, MO is doing the polishing. The only other price of doing this that I found was $400 for all four tires until I found out this local shop could do it for $150.
From what I understand of polishing the wheels is once you polish them(which takes off the clear coat), you can't put clear coat back on. You have to polish them every so many months depending on how much you drive your car.
A local shop here in St. Joseph, MO is doing the polishing. The only other price of doing this that I found was $400 for all four tires until I found out this local shop could do it for $150.
Mike Brunton
Enthusiast
Matt,
You can re-clearcoat your wheels after polishing... no problems at all.
If you don't clearcoat them, you're going to spend a LOT of time keeping them looking good, and they will be very susceptible to nicks, scratches, etc.
You can re-clearcoat your wheels after polishing... no problems at all.
If you don't clearcoat them, you're going to spend a LOT of time keeping them looking good, and they will be very susceptible to nicks, scratches, etc.
Ron
Enthusiast
<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">As far as I know, the original clear coat was applied via a power coating / heat process. Not 100% on that though.</FONT f>
OP
OP
Sniper
Enthusiast
Mike-Are you 100% sure you can re-clearcoat your wheels after polishing? Because I've had one wheel guy tell me you can't.
Dixter
Enthusiast
This should answer your questions about polished wheels and
clear coat...
http://www.wheelcollision.com/wccsvcs.html
The answer is yes you can...
clear coat...
http://www.wheelcollision.com/wccsvcs.html
The answer is yes you can...
OP
OP
Sniper
Enthusiast
Thanks, Dixter!
Is clearcoating a wheel the same as clearcoating the paint on your car?
Is clearcoating a wheel the same as clearcoating the paint on your car?
Tiepilot
Enthusiast
"I thought it was just a spray clear coat? And while on this subject, what is best, to leave them without a clear coat after being polished or to go ahead and spray?"
If you don't clearcoat, buy stock in Mother's Alum. polish and buy alot of garage rags.
If you don't clearcoat, buy stock in Mother's Alum. polish and buy alot of garage rags.
Mike Brunton
Enthusiast
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Matt Kovac:
Mike-Are you 100% sure you can re-clearcoat your wheels after polishing? Because I've had one wheel guy tell me you can't.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Matt,
Dixter already gave you the right answer - but I will add that I get alot of aluminum parts polished at work and we get alot of them clearcoated. It matters not if they were previously coated - so long as you get all the old paint off (which you would during a good polish job).
As for the paint, it is regular clearcoat, however I have heard of some paint brands that are more suitable for use on wheels (which see alot of heat), so you might want to ask around about what paints are going to hold up the best.
Mike-Are you 100% sure you can re-clearcoat your wheels after polishing? Because I've had one wheel guy tell me you can't.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Matt,
Dixter already gave you the right answer - but I will add that I get alot of aluminum parts polished at work and we get alot of them clearcoated. It matters not if they were previously coated - so long as you get all the old paint off (which you would during a good polish job).
As for the paint, it is regular clearcoat, however I have heard of some paint brands that are more suitable for use on wheels (which see alot of heat), so you might want to ask around about what paints are going to hold up the best.
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
So a type of high temp clear coat must be used due the heat experienced during braking. Any recommendation and do they come in a spray can form?
Dixter
Enthusiast
In my years of playing around, I've had motor cycles and cars and I do some restoration work on various machines.. pinballs, jukeboxes..
etc..etc..
I used a buffer/compound on all of them. I have yet to find a
suitable do it yourself clear coat that I like.
When restoring motor cycles, I have found that the front forks are
almost always clear coated and it is tough to get that stuff off.
Some parts I just have chromed and some parts I just leave bare and polish them when needed.
The wheels on my viper are not clear coated and I feel that they are shinier without the clear coat.
If my stock viper wheels were to get the "milk look" and Dodge would not help out there I'd just send them in and have them
professionally stripped of the clear coat and polished to a mirror
finish. It would be a toss up to have or not to have them clear
coated again. Clear coat will make them not quite as brite and
shiny as they will be when they are first polished... but clear coat is easier to take care of. Its a toss up.
Chrome would also be an option. A good chrome shop can make those
wheels look great and in most cases they will stay that way...
At least here in Texas... we dont' have salt on the roads during
winter. If I ever get a little fun money I'd like to chrome my
stock wheels... I like the 96-97-98-99 wheels the best and think
they'd look great chromed with those little nuggets between the spokes.
etc..etc..
I used a buffer/compound on all of them. I have yet to find a
suitable do it yourself clear coat that I like.
When restoring motor cycles, I have found that the front forks are
almost always clear coated and it is tough to get that stuff off.
Some parts I just have chromed and some parts I just leave bare and polish them when needed.
The wheels on my viper are not clear coated and I feel that they are shinier without the clear coat.
If my stock viper wheels were to get the "milk look" and Dodge would not help out there I'd just send them in and have them
professionally stripped of the clear coat and polished to a mirror
finish. It would be a toss up to have or not to have them clear
coated again. Clear coat will make them not quite as brite and
shiny as they will be when they are first polished... but clear coat is easier to take care of. Its a toss up.
Chrome would also be an option. A good chrome shop can make those
wheels look great and in most cases they will stay that way...
At least here in Texas... we dont' have salt on the roads during
winter. If I ever get a little fun money I'd like to chrome my
stock wheels... I like the 96-97-98-99 wheels the best and think
they'd look great chromed with those little nuggets between the spokes.
