Heat coming from RH floorboard vent

V10SpeedLuvr

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There is a lot of heat coming out of my floor vent on the RH side. AC controls are off. Any suggestions on how to do away with it or at least lessen it? All my passengers always mention how hot it is and I'm tired of them complaining lol. Car is a 96' RT/10 with Borla headers and no cats. Moroso spiral flow mufflers in the place of the cats. TIA!
 

jdeft1

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The vent system in gen 1 cars is very basic. Heat is controlled by the position of the heater valve (not damper doors in the air stream)..... Got heat anywhere else?...defrost vents, perhaps?

I suspect a blown vent door actuator... or a bad vent door seal. If you decide to check them out... (Mine are color coded, red blue yellow, but it's a '94) They can be tested by using a vacuum bulb tester on each actuator.


I keep the temp selector set to 'hot' in my car to keep fluid moving through the heater core. You may want to make sure the selector is set to cold...and verify the valve is closed.......
 

ViperTony

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This is what happens when so many ******'s girls are posing on or near the heating system.
 

VYPR BYT 94

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Well you do occasionally tear into it to work on it. I know you had the dash out last week for the panel lights. Do you think it's possible at some point in the last year or two you had it apart and it never got the seal seated properly when assembled? Like jdeft1 asked, you're not getting heat elsewhere?
I don't even know if they have a soft boot that could fold over or anything like that :dunno: ... never tore into mine, so if not then uhh,
Try driving in reverse like dave said. :D
 
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V10SpeedLuvr

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The vent system in gen 1 cars is very basic. Heat is controlled by the position of the heater valve (not damper doors in the air stream)..... Got heat anywhere else?...defrost vents, perhaps?

I suspect a blown vent door actuator... or a bad vent door seal. If you decide to check them out... (Mine are color coded, red blue yellow, but it's a '94) They can be tested by using a vacuum bulb tester on each actuator.


I keep the temp selector set to 'hot' in my car to keep fluid moving through the heater core. You may want to make sure the selector is set to cold...and verify the valve is closed.......

I haven't checked if heat is coming from anywhere else. I do know the LH side works fine. No heat until I turn it to the floor setting and turn the heat on. In the grand scheme of things, thats really the only side that matters since thats where I always am :D

This is what happens when so many ******'s girls are posing on or near the heating system.

I took the hardtop off yesterday for the 1st time since December. Now that the car is *******, I gotta start looking for some ******* girls for it.

I would have thought you would love it!

Passengers stripping cause they are too hot! :rolaugh:

Its only getting their feet hot, so only shoes would be coming off and I don't have a *********** :D

If driving forward causes hot air out the vent, pretty sure that driving in reverse will cause cold air out the vent.

In my ricer days, I once got pulled over for "clear taillights on a forward moving vehicle". I so wanted to ask the cop if I drove in reverse would that be ok since it would no longer be a forward moving vehicle. I didn't. Thats prob why I only got a warning :D

Well you do occasionally tear into it to work on it. I know you had the dash out last week for the panel lights. Do you think it's possible at some point in the last year or two you had it apart and it never got the seal seated properly when assembled? Like jdeft1 asked, you're not getting heat elsewhere?
I don't even know if they have a soft boot that could fold over or anything like that :dunno: ... never tore into mine, so if not then uhh,
Try driving in reverse like dave said. :D

Only having the dash face off should have no bearing on the duct work, but this is my luck we're talking about. I looked at my service manual last night after seeing jdeft's post and it shows how to access the actuators, so I'm gonna do that today and hope its something easy/obvious. But...this is my luck we're talking about lol

I'll report back on what I find. Thanks for all the help jdeft (a lot) and Mike (somewhat). For you other people....I wish we had a rep system over here :rolaugh:
 

viper067

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I have the same issue on my 94, I'm putting in a vented cowl to get rid of some engine heat ... Especially after this winters mods.
 
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V10SpeedLuvr

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Here's what I know so far: It appears the actuator is working fine. When the AC selector is set to AC or max AC, you can watch the actuator close and that cuts the heat off from the floorboard. When its moved to floor setting, defrost and floor, or defrost, the actuator opens back up and the heat returns to the floor.

I talked to Tator and he recommended replacing all the foam around the blower motor assembly and toe box on RH side. I did that but the heat is still coming out the floor vent when the AC is off. When I called back and told him this, he said heat must still be getting in from under the hood somewhere. I'm going to get it out to a friend's house at some point and use his air compressor and spray air under the hood and see if we can't find where the heat is getting in that way.
 

VYPR BYT 94

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Definitely sounds like a physical gap issue since it's closing properly. Good luck.

Not trying to be an instigator but...
It's probably those few yellow pieces/parts on the car weakening the integrity of the fine viper structure. :)
 

jdeft1

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You're definately on the right track.... Can you tell if the vent door is really closing all the way? I think there's a foam seal that the door should close against. It may be rotten and falling apart.... As for hot air from the engine compartment, how's the foam seal look that surrounds the heater core hose entry point,.. by the control valve? If that seal is missing you'll get passenger side hot feet.

Pulled off my hard top this weekend too. It's great to go *******....

Cheers
 

Mopar Boy

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Can you feel the air movement when you first turn the car on, or only at speed?

I ask as if it is when you first turn the car on (yes, I know it will be cold), but then it is NOT from engine compartment. Fan is not on and no forward speed to send air into cabin.

If when at speed only, you know it is being force fed by either engine fan, wind, or both.

If it is in the car at idle when first on, see if the fan settings change amount of airflow. If so, it is back to fan and or something inside the box not sealing.
 
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V10SpeedLuvr

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You're definately on the right track.... Can you tell if the vent door is really closing all the way? I think there's a foam seal that the door should close against. It may be rotten and falling apart....

I dropped the duct work tonight and watched the vent doors operate. When the floor vent door is closed (thus blocking airflow to the floor vent) it seems/feels to be sealing tight. This makes sense b/c if I turn the AC on (thus closing the floor vent door), it does stop all airflow coming out of the floor vent and redirects it to come out the 3 vents in the center of the dash. The problem is when the AC is off and the floor vent door is open. The hot air is coming in from the engine and going straight into the RH side floorboard.

As for hot air from the engine compartment, how's the foam seal look that surrounds the heater core hose entry point,.. by the control valve? If that seal is missing you'll get passenger side hot feet.

Both seals near the control valve have some sponginess but also show some cracks. I will replace those since I have replaced all the others. One seal that I noticed that is in bad shape is where the floor vent duct work comes into the car. Its definitely broken and has a hole exposed where the gasket has broken away. Don't think thats my problem though. But I'll replace it as well along with all the other gaskets when I put the duct work back together.

Can you feel the air movement when you first turn the car on, or only at speed?

Only at speed. Even with the car fully warmed up and idling on a hot day like today, there was no air coming from the vent. So it seems to be air or air and fan driven instead of just fan driven.

If it is in the car at idle when first on, see if the fan settings change amount of airflow. If so, it is back to fan and or something inside the box not sealing.

Everything I've seen points to it coming in from under the hood somewhere. The only seals I didn't replace under there are the 2 by the heater hoses that jdeft mentioned, so thats on the to-do list for tomorrow.
 

VYPR BYT 94

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One seal that I noticed that is in bad shape is where the floor vent duct work comes into the car. Its definitely broken and has a hole exposed where the gasket has broken away. Don't think thats my problem though.

I bet this could possibly be more of a problem than it seems. Tape some thin streamers of tissue paper hanging down all along the passenger floor area just an inch off the floor mats. Space them pretty close together. Then have your buddy direct the air nozzle to try and push some air towards where the floor vent duct work comes into the car while you watch the streamers. You might get visual confirmation.
 
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