How low should I go? Lowering my seats

wastntim

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Since I installed my three piece top by A.P. Engineering, my head is VERY close to the top. One good bump and I will have one good bump. I am deciding between the 1" or 2" drop. Are there any major drawbacks of not being able to move the seat? Has anyone chose one or another and didn't like it?
 

my viper

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The seats are adjustable with a 1" lowering kit. But, with the 2" kit, the seat cannot be moved back and forth. So, keep that in mind when making this decision.
 

ViperJohn

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Most go with the 1 inch simply because you can still move the seat. I have sat in the 2 inch kit and I thought the seating position was fine. However, there are quite a few who need to move the seat forward in order to drive the car. While most don't let a lot of people drive their car, if you take your car in for service, the vipertech may need to adjust the seat in order to move/diagnose any problems.

This thought had never occured to me until our last dyno day where a member had a 2 inch drop and the dyno operator had a hard time reaching the pedals (Gen 1).
 

bth1

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I am 6 3' and I put the one inch lowering kit in. It is better but at times I wish I went with the 2 inch kit but it is nice if you need to move the seat up to take the sports bar/hard top off/on.
 

monnieh

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Go 2 inch if you have long legs. I love mine as my left knew has so much more room. Also lowers the seat a lot which makes me feel better fitted when looking out.

It's a PIA to install though.
 

Tom F&L GoR

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If you ever have thoughts of track days, put a helmet on and see if you'll fit. You either have to wear a helmet with the top on, or many tracks that disallow the top have the "broomstick" rule, where your helmet has to be under a stick bridging the windshield and the sport bar.

It's worth it to undo the four bolts holding the seat to the floor, take off the adjusters, and put boards on the floor to simulate a 1" and 2" drop.
 

Knight Viper

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6'3" and love it...Didn’t like my driving position without it!!!!! You'll forget all about the pain of the install when you slide down into your seat and are looking out the windshield, does make getting out a little harder but still not a big deal compared to the improvement
 

JUCD VPR

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6'3" and love it...Didn’t like my driving position without it!!!!! You'll forget all about the pain of the install when you slide down into your seat and are looking out the windshield, does make getting out a little harder but still not a big deal compared to the improvement
I'm in the same dilemma but i'm only 5'10'' but with a helmet i have to slouch down or else it rubs the top. So i think i am going with a 1" inch on the driver and passenger side since i have some tall buddys of mine sitting in the viper at times. OR should i go 2 on the passenger side?
Why would the passenger need to move the seat up anyway?
Advice please?

I also have a footwell sub so a 2 inch would be better huh?
 
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wastntim

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It's worth it to undo the four bolts holding the seat to the floor, take off the adjusters, and put boards on the floor to simulate a 1" and 2" drop.

That's a good idea. I think I will try that. The three piece top is very low. One benefit is that I've kept my OEM top specifically for track days. :2tu:
 

Tom F&L GoR

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OK, here's a great combination:

If you get an aluminum racing seat, the cloth cover has maybe 1/2" foam padding. Compare that to the OEM seat cushion! But (<-- pun) because it fits your form, you don't miss the cushion. It might be 3-4" lower, allowing you to put your seat tracks back in place.

Pro: you still have fore and aft adjustment, meet track rules, wear your helment, sit much tighter in car.

Con: expense, shimming up the seat tracks under your racing seat, getting in and out of car.

Call around to speed shops that have racing seats in the store and sit in one. If you've never tried one, you may be surprised.
 

JUCD VPR

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carguy07

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No HiJack intented... Can somebody tell me where to get a 1" lowering kit for a gen2?
TIA

I think that is per side.

http://partsrack.blastmart.com/customer/product.php?productid=1373&cat=152&page=2
HOLY S**T :eek: , are you serious it's THAT MUCH to lower 1 freakin seat 1"? Goodness sakes viper tax. There has GOT to be a cheaper way to do it. :rolleyes: I'm not paying that much lol!

I know what you mean. :( Just seems like a ton of $ for what they do. Low production parts are like that though.

Some guys have chopped up their stock ones to make their own. I looked for a second set for a while for mine but came up empty. What I really want to do is get a second set and chop the back down until it hits the floor but leave the front at the stock height.
 

Tom F&L GoR

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The stock braclets can be easily modified with a hack saw and a welder.

Look for local vocational schools to take a 3 week course, buy a Sears AC arc welder that plugs into your dryer outlet, and you'll amaze your friends with all the things you can now do. Heck, I built a kit Cobra before there was such a thing as a designated parts car with a simple buzz box and I'd never welded before.
 

ROCKET62

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I also picked up the trunktop for my Gen 1 and at 6'2" wasnt sure how low to go. Decided to make my own brackets and if you're handy and have a little time, there's not too much to fabricating a 2" lowering kit. I love the new postion, visibility is better, and could not see going back - and quite frankly dont care if I can't move the seat forward, as no one drives my Viper except me. Here's a quick pic. All I used was some 2" square tubing, some 3/16" steel, a drill bit, and a combination of bolts, washers, lock washers, and nuts. It's rock solid.

5122Seat_Brackets.JPG
 
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