Jacking Points, Need Advice

[Vipergtsbob]

I need some advice. I obviously am aware of the 4 jacking points under the sills, but was wondering if there is a safe location to put a hydralic jack under the rear end assembly and the front end. Can the rear diff housing be used or will it deform under the cars weight? In any event, any advice and even a pic or 2 would be most appreciated.

Bob Carroll
a Jersey Jackon

 

[Janni]

Bob,
The middle of the front cross member (the meeting point in the "K" of the frame) will allow you to pick up the front of the car. Also, placing a floor jack under the "S" part of the rear side frame rail (closest to the center of the car as you can get) will pick up the back of the car - although one side will come up first, the chassis is stiff enough to pick up the back end.

We pick up the back end first to give enough clearance to get to the front. This is the only way we ever jack the car to get it up on jackstands.

Hope this helps.

[edit]Do NOT use the rear diff as a jack point.... [/edit]

 

[Vipergtsbob]

Janni,
thanks for the reply. Need a little clarification though. The rear S point for jacking, are you describing behind or in front of the rear axel? Also, if I understand correctly, you jack the rear first, I presume you then put jackstands on the rear side sill jack points/pads and then proceed to the front K position to jack the front up? I have the jack stands and the floor jack, and would appreciate your expertise on what is the best order to enable all four stands to be placed on the side sill pads/jack points while utilizing the single floor jack. I apologize for the confusing description but I know smarter persons than I have done this before without crushing key undercarriage parts and elements and utilizing one jack and four stands.
Thanks in advance for any more help you can give
Bob Carroll

 

[Janni]

Here's what we do - your mileage may very - but we feel this is safe for working under the car....

Drive car up on 4 homemade stair stepped 2X12 ramps.

Jack back end of car at the start / curvy part of the frame's "S" curve FORWARD of the rear axle. This will pick up your jacking side of the rear first, but keep going and it will pick up entire back end.

Place jack stands under FRAME RAILS behind S curve - not too far out. We only lift the car about 16 inches or so - just enough to comfortable work under there. We have never had an issue abouthte car moving in this tilted position, but again, we don't lift it to a 45 degree angle

Jack up front of car - either by placing jack between front and rear wheels and going in that way, or, with a low enough profile jack, going in from the front. Place jack saddle at the intersection of the "K" crossmember. This will pick up the front of the car very evenly.

Place level jackstands under FRAME RAILS slightly behind where the tie down holes are but not directly underneath the "A" arm reinforcement. Again - big thing here is to make sure you are under the thick / wide section of the frame and not the front 1/2 height section of frame horn.

Both our cars have spent MANY HOURS up in the air like this - we work under them, over them, sit in them, etc. and have never felt the car was the least bit unstable. We have no marks on our sills, either.

On another note, Costco has the low profile jack back in stock in our area - $239 for a 6 pump aluminum jack - we can now jack up the entire car with only using ONE ramp - and it is certainly easier to haul to the track. We'll be doing a group buy for our local club... Check it out -its a great value AND its a 3K pound jack whereas some lightweight aluminum jacks are only 2K pounds.....

Hope this explains better.