Line Lock Installation pictures

Jack B

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The car was a 97 with a Hurst Line Lock. The following miscellaneous materials were needed:

Summit line-lock tubing kit (use two 12" tubes)
(1) extra 1/8 pipe 90/elbow x 3/16 tube
(2) extra 1/8" pipe plugs
(1) momentary mushroom switch from Summit
Tubing bender
Mity Vac for bleeding

I also found it easier to switch the ground with the mushroom switch and pick up the positive 12V next to the PCM. Also be careful to distinguish between the pipe fittings and the flare fittings. Use the teflon tape on the pipe fittings, however, start the tape a couple threads up from the bottom.


A 3/8" shorty wrench makes it easier to access the proportioning valve.


96LL_Mushroom_Switch-med.jpg


96Line_Lock_Close-med.jpg


96LL_Unmtd-med.jpg


96Line_Lock_Side-med.jpg


96Line_Lock_Rear-med.jpg
 

Daffy Duck Viper

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Oh, hey! That's great. Thanks for posting such wonderful info and how-to.
I love sht like that on here. It's why I read: Knowledge!!! Who's got the power? *grin*
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Snake Bitten

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Thank you from me too! I am installing one on my RT within a week or two...Heaven help my rear skins!!! Good thing I have two spare sets!
 
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Jack B

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One thing I forgot - the Summit tubing kit only had one 12" steel line. I had to purchase a second kit. I probably could have found that line without the need for the second kit.

If you read the Hurst instructions they make a big deal about actuating the car's oem brake lights when the line-lock is actuated. There must be some legal requirements. I did not check if my lights came on, however, when the line-lock is in use the in-dash brake light reminder (emergency brake on) comes on.

Second issue, the need for the after-market actuation pilot light. I found no need to install the pilot light that came with the kit. Since my switch is a momemtary (must be held) device I found no reason for a light.
 

jcaspar1

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Jack
Do you usually shift into second for your burnouts or just stay in first, and if you do shift how do you do it with the momentary switch?
 
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Jack B

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Hit the brake, hold down the switch (only moves about .15"), release the brake pedal. The fronts are now locked, just bring up the rpm's and let out the clutch. When you release the button the front brakes release.

Some people also use the line-lock to keep the car from rolling at the staging lights. If you use it for this purpose you should preload the drive train by slightly releasing the clutch as the lights come down. Paul Suloff (headers only) does consistent 1.45 60's with this technique. He also did a 1.35 60' at the Beech Bend Friday night time trials.
 

Alternative

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Just ordered the Hurst line-lock, and install kit (brake lines and various fittings) from Summit. 'Still needs to buy a tubing bender or barrow from a friend.

If I understand JackB's post correctly, there are 2 brake lines (primary and secondary) coming off the brake master cylinder that lead to the combination valve or proportioning valve. The one closest to the brake booster is the primary line that controls the front brakes, is this correct?

If so, the primary line is the one that needs to be disconnected from the master cylinder and combination valve to be replaced with new lines, 2 new lines to be exact. One line from the master cylinder to the line-lock, and the other line from the line-lock to the combination valve.

I made a drawing of the complete install, which can be viewed here:
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-6/239653/Installdiagram.jpg

I hope it's correct...
 
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Jack B

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Alan:

your schematic is the way I have mine connected and it does work. When you get the kit forget the need for a light. The break light does come on with the line lock actuated.

The only tricky part is the forming of the new lines. You definitely need a tube bender. The key is to put an angle bend into the line even if going straight, this allows you to be a bit off and still land correctly.

If you buy the Hurst accessory kit you will have enough tubes to do the install. I was shy one fitting that the kit did not have. Sorry about the delay, I had my car on the lift (all the way up) and had some difficulties getting it down to compare your sketch.
 

MbnViper

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great, thanks for the pics, im going to order/install it in few weeks, sorry for my ignorance but i searched summit and came up with this parts numbers and it did confused me a little :confused:

1/8 pipe 90/elbow

Pipe plugs

3/16 tube

did i picked the right parts ? thanks in advance :)
 

Alternative

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Mbn - I just ordered the Hurst Install kit, PN#: 5671510. It had all the fittings and brake lines I needed. You'll end up with extra fittings and one brake line, but it's better to have more than not have the correct fittings during an install.
 
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Jack B

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If the kit hasn't changed in the last year you will need two pipe plugs for the solenoid and the ninety at the proportioning valve. This is beyond what is in the Hurst kit.
 
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