happy
Viper Owner
I was thinking about putting one on my 02 gts is there any somebody could recomend? Thanks!
Many out there using line locks???????
- Thread starter happy
- Start date
BlackSnake99
Enthusiast
Roffle Waffle
Viper Owner
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2009
- Posts
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I also have a Hurst. Works great!
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damn, thats a sweet srt10
whitebluevipe
Enthusiast
cool picture. make a great screen saver.
eucharistos
Enthusiast
how hard are they to install 
tia
tia
how hard are they to install
tia
Not hard at all. I installed one in my GTS and now my Gen 4.
Kevan
Enthusiast
DIY: Line Lock Installation (PART 1 of 3) - .:SRTConnection:.how hard are they to install
tia
DIY: Line Lock Installation (PART 2 of 3) - .:SRTConnection:.
DIY: Line Lock Installation (PART 3 of 3) - .:SRTConnection:.
I have switch covers in a plethora of colors.
Let me know if you want some (no charge).
GTSnake
Enthusiast
Dang I didn't know GenIII folks have a forum all to themselves....
We GenI/II people should start one too. 
That seems awfully complicated just to replace a few lines. I can't believe there aren't any kits out there that make it easier.
We GenI/II people should start one too. That seems awfully complicated just to replace a few lines. I can't believe there aren't any kits out there that make it easier.
BigBadViper
Enthusiast
I have one. I do second gear burnouts as well.
Canyon707
Enthusiast
Line lock 2004 Viper
I just finished installing a Hurst line lock on my 04 Viper. I thought I would share the installation with you. My pictures are not the best but, I think most came out ok. I purchased the line lock from JMB Performance.
First step was to locate a mounting area for the line lock. This picture shows it just across from the master cylinder mounting it to the interior side wall.
[URL="http://forums.viperclub.org/attachments/performance-modifications/6538d1265558702-line-lock-2004-viper-line-lock-mount.jpg"]
[/URL]
Draining the master cylinder was a slow process but, this is how I did it. I bought a cheap turkey baster and some 1/8" tubing. I cut a piece of tubing about 8" long and pulled about 6" through the the tip leaving about 2" inside the baster so I could siphon out the brake fluid from the resesvior . It's kind of a slow process and care must be taken not to spill any. I covered my car with 3m plastic that one would use to mask windows before painting then a vinyl car cover over that.
Justin at JMB Performance knew exactly what parts I needed to set this up and included the braided stainless lines and fittings needed.
Step Two, After removing the fluid I was trying to figure how to get a wrench to the primary brake line. I realized I had to remove the front wheel (driver side) and remove the interior fender well liner. This is the access hole to the fittings on the master cylinder after removing the inner liner. The primary line to remove is the one closest to the fire wall or driver.
Step 3 After the tire was removed and the two parts of the wheel well liner I had to remove the cover that exposed the ABS unit.
not the best picture of the ABS unit but, it was hard to photograph. The primary line on the ABS unit looking through the small access hole is closest to the front of the car and to the right. Very hard to get a good picture let alone to unbolt it. The best way I found was to take a box wrench and cut a slot in it to slip over the brake line and down on the nut to remove it. I pulled of the pan under the bumper to get access to that nut. This was probably the most difficult to reach and I ended up removing the secondary lint to get to the primary line. Be careful not to bend this but it will move out of the way to get a wrench to the primary and loosen it. All I can say about this is it's a tough fitting to get to but, it can be done just takes time. I pretty much followed a smooth path from the line lock to the ABS unit. Included in the kit from JMB Performance was a 90 degree fitting that screwed into the ABS primary. the line was pretty easy to attach. the other line attached to the master cylinder and to the input side of the line lock.
The next part was the wiring. I had to run a direct line from the fuse box to my light and switch inside the car. I decided that I did not want to make a hole in my dash of counsel so I decided to install the unit in the never used ash tray.
This way I could just unplug it if I wanted to remove it and put a new unit in it's place. I ran the wires as needed through the firewall. I drilled a small hole behind the clutch pedal near the top. Be careful not to hit anything on the inside. I found this area to be free from ay wires etc. and then inserted a groument to keep the wires from rubbing on the metal. I had to remove the short shifter and the cover and the plastic counsel cover that had the window switches and lighter. Just unplug them pretty easy to do. The cover just snaps in or out. I just ran the wires under the upper part of the carpet to the counsel and then into the old ash tray and made my connections. I then took some heat shrink materials and covered each connector to protect from any possibility of contact.
Since the fuse box is full I used a fuse that had a third leg to hook power to. This mad it a safe fused link and very easy to do.
This is the finished interior picture of the switch and light all contained in the ash tray.
The last thing to do is to power bleed the brake system. I had to have it done at the dealer since I didn't have the tools to do this. The bleeding is somewhat complicated and for me I think if your not sure have it done by a pro since both sides of the caliper need to be done.
The end.. Questions? just ask. I could only load up five pictures. I have othere if you need a closer look.
Chris
I just finished installing a Hurst line lock on my 04 Viper. I thought I would share the installation with you. My pictures are not the best but, I think most came out ok. I purchased the line lock from JMB Performance.
First step was to locate a mounting area for the line lock. This picture shows it just across from the master cylinder mounting it to the interior side wall.
[URL="http://forums.viperclub.org/attachments/performance-modifications/6538d1265558702-line-lock-2004-viper-line-lock-mount.jpg"]
[/URL]Draining the master cylinder was a slow process but, this is how I did it. I bought a cheap turkey baster and some 1/8" tubing. I cut a piece of tubing about 8" long and pulled about 6" through the the tip leaving about 2" inside the baster so I could siphon out the brake fluid from the resesvior . It's kind of a slow process and care must be taken not to spill any. I covered my car with 3m plastic that one would use to mask windows before painting then a vinyl car cover over that.
Justin at JMB Performance knew exactly what parts I needed to set this up and included the braided stainless lines and fittings needed.
Step Two, After removing the fluid I was trying to figure how to get a wrench to the primary brake line. I realized I had to remove the front wheel (driver side) and remove the interior fender well liner. This is the access hole to the fittings on the master cylinder after removing the inner liner. The primary line to remove is the one closest to the fire wall or driver.
Step 3 After the tire was removed and the two parts of the wheel well liner I had to remove the cover that exposed the ABS unit.
not the best picture of the ABS unit but, it was hard to photograph. The primary line on the ABS unit looking through the small access hole is closest to the front of the car and to the right. Very hard to get a good picture let alone to unbolt it. The best way I found was to take a box wrench and cut a slot in it to slip over the brake line and down on the nut to remove it. I pulled of the pan under the bumper to get access to that nut. This was probably the most difficult to reach and I ended up removing the secondary lint to get to the primary line. Be careful not to bend this but it will move out of the way to get a wrench to the primary and loosen it. All I can say about this is it's a tough fitting to get to but, it can be done just takes time. I pretty much followed a smooth path from the line lock to the ABS unit. Included in the kit from JMB Performance was a 90 degree fitting that screwed into the ABS primary. the line was pretty easy to attach. the other line attached to the master cylinder and to the input side of the line lock.
The next part was the wiring. I had to run a direct line from the fuse box to my light and switch inside the car. I decided that I did not want to make a hole in my dash of counsel so I decided to install the unit in the never used ash tray.
This way I could just unplug it if I wanted to remove it and put a new unit in it's place. I ran the wires as needed through the firewall. I drilled a small hole behind the clutch pedal near the top. Be careful not to hit anything on the inside. I found this area to be free from ay wires etc. and then inserted a groument to keep the wires from rubbing on the metal. I had to remove the short shifter and the cover and the plastic counsel cover that had the window switches and lighter. Just unplug them pretty easy to do. The cover just snaps in or out. I just ran the wires under the upper part of the carpet to the counsel and then into the old ash tray and made my connections. I then took some heat shrink materials and covered each connector to protect from any possibility of contact.
Since the fuse box is full I used a fuse that had a third leg to hook power to. This mad it a safe fused link and very easy to do.
This is the finished interior picture of the switch and light all contained in the ash tray.
The last thing to do is to power bleed the brake system. I had to have it done at the dealer since I didn't have the tools to do this. The bleeding is somewhat complicated and for me I think if your not sure have it done by a pro since both sides of the caliper need to be done.
The end.. Questions? just ask. I could only load up five pictures. I have othere if you need a closer look.
Chris
Simms
Enthusiast
Hurst here.
