O2 sensor error codes

[sssammm]

O2 sensor error codes;

car chucked up P0135, so i changed the bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor today, and now its throwing P0031, Im going mental

any Ideas here?

 

[bluesrt]

the 135 is the heater circuit,check for melted or damaged wires for the other code

 

[sssammm]

No meltings, I just put in the new sensor, shielded it, started the car, 2 mins later the CEL 0031 code fires up

 

[VicTxV10]

You just installed new headers right, check the wiring?

 

[bluesrt]

No meltings, I just put in the new sensor, shielded it, started the car, 2 mins later the CEL 0031 code fires up

oo31 is usually a wire fault/connection/ computer but highly doughtful on the computer. check the wireing very well

 

[sssammm]

None of the wiring had been changed, was running fine

 

[bluesrt]

its not a universal o2 is it? did you have to put the pigtail on yourself?

 

[sssammm]

will get under and check tomorrow

 

[sssammm]

Just sussed it, the new sensor cleared the 135 code.

but then throws up the 0031 code, the old sensor was fooked, but had lots of slots in it, quickfire?, the new one has just the 4 tiny holes in the sides, so its not heating up quick enough, ive got 3" pipes, so my flow is too good for the sensor
I will drill it out tomorrow so it can heat up quicker, I hope that should do it

sam

 

[sssammm]

ok, today i drilled out 9 3mm holes in the sensor tip, refitted and it threw a heater code, so i drove the car till it was hot, deleted the code, drove 20 miles and no code returned, so thats all it needed

happy

 

[ViperTony]

It may come back. If so, pick up a set of QuickFire O2 sensors from DC Performance.

 

[sssammm]

It was 1c in my garage today, the car was freezing, maybe it wont happen again in the warmer weather

 

[Darbgnik]

20 degrees isn't much of a change for a sensor that sees hundreds. It'll be back.

 

[sssammm]

at least i know what the solution is, if it returns i will drill more holes, unfortunately these oem o2 sensor cost £100 ($162) here, would be a shame to have to dump it

 

[sssammm]

Just a quickie, I have found a great heatshield, for my O2 wires, this one is like a sprung tube that is open all the way down with a sticky heat strip along the edge, just put it round the wires, peel the backing off and seal it up, very flexible too

really easy to use and doesnt need staples or wire

Company is Thermal Velocity

 

[ViperTony]

Been there, done that. Drilling more holes isn't going to solve the problem. I used DEI heat shielding wrap like yours and it works pretty good but what are you using it for? Are you concerned about the O2 sensor wires burning up, running against something?

As an FYI, if you search the forums for "quick fire" or "quickfire" O2 sensors, you should be able to find some history on this issue. The quickfire O2 sensors solved the 02 heater problem on many GenII's with aftermarket headers. Not sure if the same applies to GenIII but search this forum for aftermarket header O2 sensor issues, I recall a few discussions on the matter.

Can you give us a little more detail about the O2 sensors you're using? Brand/part#?

 

[sssammm]

The 02 sensor ive just put in is oem from chrysler, it cleared the 135 code, but the one i took out, which was dead, had loads of slots in the sensor, maybe it was a quickfire, do DC do them for gen3?

at the moment ive got the stock headers on

 

[Garron]

Both codes are for a heater fault for the same sensor.

First I hope this sensor you are changing is on the DRIVERS side in the header BEFORE the cat (1/1).

The old sensor has a part number on it. You should make sure the replacement is a match.

Feel free to switch the two upstreams (passenger to driver) if you question the parts you are getting. The code should change to a 1/2 code if the oxygen sensor is at fault.

Pin #1 on the sensor should have power anytime the car is running. Or within 7 seconds of turning the key on. After that it will shut off if it does not see the crankshaft sensor signal.

Pin #2 on the sensor is the computer control or ground side of the sensor. The computer will vary the ground like you would use a dimmer switch to control lights. Good ground heater will heat up faster. Computer will vary the ground 0%-100%.

Test both wires with a test light, you will find the problem.

NOTE: the same oxygen sensors are used on the 2003 1500 pick up and these operate correctly even at -40c. So I don't think 1c is a problem.

 

[sssammm]

lesson learnt!......Bank 1 Sensor 1 was plugged into the loom for Sensor 2, and vice versa, just a simple error by the previous owners garage, !!!!, I reversed the plugs and now get perfect O2 readings and no CEL

 

[Darbgnik]

Good news.

 

[sssammm]

last night checked the bank 2 sensors through the wiring disgrams and guess what, also wired into the wrong looms, anyway, changed one, reversed the loom positions. did a live data check with my Maxidiags 702 and all readings are sweet
Started out today, and im driving a new car, no codes, no bucking, no rich fumes,
i cant believe that a garage can make such a stupid error

sam

 

[fqberful]

last night checked the bank 2 sensors through the wiring disgrams and guess what, also wired into the wrong looms, anyway, changed one, reversed the loom positions. did a live data check with my Maxidiags 702 and all readings are sweet
Started out today, and im driving a new car, no codes, no bucking, no rich fumes,
i cant believe that a garage can make such a stupid error

sam

Even dumber, with a JTEC PCM the front O2 sensors are a completely different type of sensor than the post cat ones. They look the same but operate completely differently. Luckily it didn't do any other electronic damage like to the PCM.

--FQB

 

[sssammm]

Exactly, thats why i replaced the pre cat ones,vital for fuel management