OBDII code readers

KenH

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Has anyone tried one of the OBDII code readers like the Equus 3100 to read and clear their trouble codes on a Viper? Despite my '01 service manuals statements to the contrary, I cannot retrieve the codes using the key on/off sequence. While I can take it into the dealership, I wouldn't mind adding a tool to my tool box that let me get a better handle on these kinds of problems.

--- Ken
 

viperdoctor

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I bought the Auto Xray and I have used it with success on all my OBD II cars (all cars 1996 and older).

It also clears the check engine light in addition to giving a human readout of the error codes.

I also have a 2001 and you can't reset the check engine light either with the methods of the older cars.
 

Steve 00RT/10

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I bought the Equus code reader last month. Have yet to use it as the car is still hibernating. It was $140 delivered.

Steve
 

Ron

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<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">Don't know anything about the Equus or Auto X-Ray, but Sean Roe sells the Ease Diagnostics version which uses your notebook PC for display and data storage. It displays and clears codes plus a few other things.

</FONT f>
 

ewave

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I have experience with the Ease Diagnostics Chrysler OBD II Scan Tool, and their generic one on my 97 GTS.

The generic one was very slow to update- perhaps 2 to 3 times a second. The one that is specific to the Chrysler protocol is much faster, approximately 10+ times per second. The update rate is important when you are trying to diagnose intermittent behavior, and you are trying to catch glitches.

The generic one was $259, and the Chrysler specific one was $349. The only difference between the two is the software package that loads on the PC. The hardware that interfaces between the car's PCM and your PC is identical.

While I'm happy with the performance of the Chrysler version, I do think it is quite expensive considering the cost of the hardware. The interface hardware has two Motorola HC705K1's in it that cost less than $2.00 a piece and a small amount of voltage level shifting circuitry. I'd guess that the hardware, including cables, case and box cost less that $50 to produce. So you're really paying for the PC software.

I bought mine from Sean Roe, who did a great job of customer service, and allowed me to trade in the generic one for the Chrysler specific one. I shopped around, and he had the best price I could find.

If you're in the Dallas area I can lend mine to you.
 

TomMiriViper

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Actron and Sears sell the same one. Both are very good and work well. I have the one from Actron. You can buy them from most auto part stores.

Cheers,
Tom
 

Marc Lublin

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I have the Autoxray scan tool. Works great, will read any codes in seconds and reset mil light so you can keep the car running the the way it should (not overly rich like it does with the light on). I never got around to moving the O2 sensor bungs on my headers, so I just keep the tool in the trunk and reset the light any time it comes on. It only comes on every few hundred miles so it is no big deal. Takes about 2 minutes, including getting out of the car, going to the trunk, hooking it up and scanning. I recommend it to anyone who want to get into their computer. I don't recall the exact cost, but it wasn't expensive. I believe the web side it www.autoxray.com
 
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KenH

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Thanks for all the inputs. While I would like to get a system that hooks to a laptop, I don't have a laptop so the cost would be a bit high. My wife has been ragging on me to get a PDA and I notice that there are a couple of systems that allow you to use your PDA instead of a laptop, so that may also be an option. Time to checkout the auto stores I guess and I'll definitely check out the AutoXray unit.

--- Ken
 

kverges

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Do yourself a favor and get a computer based system - I have the same obd-2 setup Matthew has and I can scan my Jaguar, Corvette, Viper and virtually any other obd-2 vehicle. Pick up a cheap laptop on ebay (even an old 286 machine will probably work). The advantage is that you can not only read codes, but all engine sensors and data log. That means you can test drive to acquire data and then look at it when you get back. Invaluable for intermittent problems or to tune the car.
 
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KenH

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Update,
I ran out and got an Equus 3100 since it really bothers me to have the check engine lamp on. Cost $149 at the local auto store. It let me get the codes and reset the check engine light in a pretty simple fashion. The failure codes showed that I had a heater malfunction on both of the front sensors. Sounds like a probably cable issue, so I wouldn't be surprised to see the problem come back. I'll drive it to work tomorrow and see how it fares.

After buying the Equus unit and then reading some of the later posts, I checked out the www.obd-2.com site Matthew recommended. I was quite impressed, especially for the cost. Anyone with a laptop should definitely check that one out. They also sell interface hardware that converts RS232 to the ECM port protocol for those who might be interested in writing their own software.

--- Ken
 

Steve 00RT/10

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Took the car out of hibernation today even though we still have 2 feet of snow. It was 60 degrees and the roads were dry. The Belanger equipped beast barely turned over at all before rumbling to life and rattling the windows upstairs.

Tried out my new Equus code reader. It worked slick. Picked up a O2 heater code and a cat code. Erased them both. The whole operation was a couple of minutes. Put my snake box(s) in tonight. The plug ins are handy when you're on your back. We'll see if it keeps the cat code cleared.

Steve
 

toddt

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I have a question about your cat code...

It seems like there are no oxygen sensors on the output of the cats.

How then can it signal cat inefficiency? Does anyone know how that works?

Is it somehow the UPSTREAM O2 sensor that does it?
 
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KenH

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Toddt,
There are O2 sensors after the cats. They are visible in the rear wheel well where the exhaust pipe S-bends towards the center of the vehicle. The are located on the top of the pipe.

When the car is running in a lean condition, there is excess oxygen in the exhaust. The converter is expected to store this excess oxygen to later help to oxidize HC and CO. Therefore the rear O2 sensor should see less oxygen in the exhaust than the front sensor and there should be a difference in their outputs. The computer actually counts the number of of lean-to-rich switches and the downstream O2 sensor should have fewer switches than the upstream sensor. As the converter goes bad (or gets removed), the difference in switching frequency becomes less and an O2 sensor code is shown.

--- Ken
 

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