Oh c'mon, you have to be kidding me...

[John_Cassels]

Oh c'mon, you have to be kidding me...Won't start

So two weeks ago my fob battery died while I was out with the car and last night I take it out, drive it to a friend's place, and when I go to start it to leave, well it doesn't.

Over the past few weeks the car has been almost stalling upon start up (really rough starts) so I though I just needed to get the car for a long drive, which I did and it seemed to be working fine. It would start rough but as soon as the wheels got moving, the car was fine.

The car yesterday was driving a little rough (a little lurching) and after it wouldn't start at night, I noticed that the alarm light is off. The car will turn over but cuts out after doing so. Also the fobs don't work (which is in keeping with the alarm not working). The lights turn on in the cabin when I open the door and when I put the key in position 1, I don't believe the check engine light comes on.

The car is a 1997 GTS Coupe with Borla full exhaust system (headers all the way through) an after market sound system.

Any help would be appreciated - thank you.
Johnny

 

[John_Cassels]

Also, I thought I'd mention that the car has been idling rather low (400 rpm) for as long as I can remember (I've had the car since March)

 

[gtex]

my 97 has a not-so-slow battery drain. I keep it on a battery maintainer now after replacing the battery. once you get to where the battery is very healthy, try the poor man's reset (remove both battery cables and touch the cable ends together to discharge any caps etc. in the computer). then take it for a drive with a healthy battery and the computer should re-learn where it wants to be. my check engine light went off after some driving and the idle stabilized.

 

[MoparBoyy]

when you say it doesn't start. does it crank over the engine or just nothing like the battery is dead?

 

[John_Cassels]

Hey, thanks for the responses - MoparBoyy, the car turns over, so I'm not sure if the battery is dead.

Gtexx - the battery was replaced in March and it hasn't say for longer than 4 days at a time, could it have died that quickly?

 

[Stonep185]

My battery will die in 4 days if not on the tender. When my battery is low the engine will not idle until I rev it and drive down a block or 2. The alternator does not seem to produce enough to idle on a low battery. Does the issue disappear after driving for a considerable distance?

 

[Steve-Indy]

Hi, John....sorry for your troubles...but, I'll bet they are "fixable" without much effort. Let's go step at a time:

"So two weeks ago my fob battery died while I was out with the car and last night I take it out, drive it to a friend's place, and when I go to start it to leave, well it doesn't." Start-up, night driving, short trips, city driving, playing stereo ALL drain battery, be it good or bad. By my recollection, Viper Techs discussing your era of Viper often noted that one would be driving (draining) on battery if the RPM was below 1400 or so. There is a good chance that your battery MAY be a little low on charge/performance. TEST battery and alternator !! A trap exists for Vipers on tenders in that battery can be weak, but car fires up at home only to be "dead" at destination on attempted restart. This has happened to me. Also note that new batteries CAN be low on charge AND/OR defective (have seen this more than once). I generally bring a new battery home, and do a full charge, then switch to a tender, then repeat same PRIOR to installing the battery in any Viper...but especially when dealing with a-pain-in-the-asp Gen I or II due to the location. ALWAYS check the cables at the connectors as they can dissolve due to corrosion. By the way...clean, refinish battery tray if you find corrosion on it while you are in that neighborhood...see Illustrated Upgrade Section. The GROUNDS need to be inspected as well.

"Over the past few weeks the car has been almost stalling upon start up (really rough starts) so I though I just needed to
get the car for a long drive, which I did and it seemed to be working fine. It would start rough but as soon as the wheels got moving, the car was fine." Battery??, Plugs?? Wires?? All of the above???

"The car yesterday was driving a little rough (a little lurching) and after it wouldn't start at night, I noticed that the alarm light is off. " BATTERY??

"The car will turn over but cuts out after doing so. Also the fobs don't work (which is in keeping with the alarm not working)." BATTERY ?? Funky EEM (Electronic Entry Module)?? May need to re-sync fobs??

"The lights turn on in the cabin when I open the door and when I put the key in position 1, I don't believe the check engine light comes on." Do the LED's in the door handles stay on longer that two minutes with doors closed and ignition off?? If they stay on all of the time...bad EEM??

"The car is a 1997 GTS Coupe with Borla full exhaust system (headers all the way through)" Headers have been associated with fried O2 Sensor wires that can short .

"...an after market sound system." ANY add-on wiring CAN BE a source of electrical issues !!!

Depending on the answers to SOME of the above questions...you MAY need to consider doing an Ignition-Off Draw test to look for an abnormal draw on the battery (normal draw at rest with all accessories off, doors closed, and circuits timed-out should not exceed 35 milliamps).

For a professional "sorting" and "fixing"...consider a trip to Chuck Tator's if you can't find high level talent close to home.

IF you wish to talk...you have my number !!

 

[costanZo]

My battery will die in 4 days if not on the tender. When my battery is low the engine will not idle until I rev it and drive down a block or 2. The alternator does not seem to produce enough to idle on a low battery. Does the issue disappear after driving for a considerable distance?

Same here. If you leave the car alone without driving it at all, 4 or 5 days tops it will last; even less in the winter months.

Also, I believe our cars have a Generator, not an Alternator.

 

[AJ02]

I guess I have a wierd one. I've let mine sit for a week and a half and it fired right up. No problem. I probably just jinxed myself!!

 

[Stonep185]

I know some Snakes that can sit for a month and start right up but mine will not. I need to trouble shoot the issue with an amp meter to see where the source is that's draining my battery. I noticed that my door lock lights NEVER go off so that's a good starting point! EEM problem I suppose and the alarm does not seem to activate...

 

[Steve-Indy]

From the 1992-1996 Parts Catalog 4848 662 ALTERNATOR, Complete

From the 1997 Parts Catalog 04848662 ALTERNATOR, Electrical,

From the 2003 Parts Catalog 05037198AA ALTERNATOR, Electrical

From the 2008 Parts Catalog 05037198AC ALTERNATOR, Engine

 

[gtex]

drove mine to work yesterday, didn't put it on the tender last night, would not start today. I'm down to one day now :-( something with these cars is sucking down good power when off. my battery is less than a year old. i might go digging more, but it's pretty easy to plug in teh tender since I added a quick connect. but a roadtrip overnight now would make me nervous. I have other vehicles that go months and months?

 

[alwayscode390]

My car has an aftermarket stereo with 2 amps and it can sit for days and fire right up ... not sure what brand battery I have ---

 

[John_Cassels]

Hey all, thanks for chiming in and offering your help - Steve, you're a scholar when it comes to these cars. Had my car flatbeded to a local tech who knows his stuff (he's on this board) and as you guessed, it was the EEM module - had to buy and install a new one. Also, the car doesn't have a full Borla set-up; the car has those old square Edelbrock headers that aren't actually designed for the Viper - damned things are held together with screws and springs. The result is a car that is running rich and likely has a fouled plug or two. The solution is Belanger headers and new plugs/wires from what I've been told. The aforementioned symptoms seem to fit with fouled plugs and a car running rich. Any thoughts on whether this will rectify the issue? Again, thanks for all of your help chiming in, I appreciate it.

 

[Stonep185]

Did you install the eem yourself? Where did you pick it up at?

 

[Garron]

Did you install the eem yourself? Where did you pick it up at?

You can actually buy the module new from Chrysler now. It comes with two new fobs and antenna wiring for 96 and older vehicles. Last year it was not available.

Garrett

 

[Stonep185]

What's the approx going price of that eem from chrysler? Do you think that will cure my alarm problems? It doesn't work...

 

[Steve-Indy]

Thanks for the followup, John...settle in and enjoy that Snake !!!

 

[Garron]

What's the approx going price of that eem from chrysler? Do you think that will cure my alarm problems? It doesn't work...

Canadian pricing for Chrysler parts from a dealer has always been higher then what you can buy the parts for in the States from a Chrysler dealer (sore point with me). If we (Canadians) choose to order from US suppliers we still get charged brokerage as the part crosses the border. I ordered a $14 book and was charged $36 brokerage. At times brokerage seems inconstant and I am sure it comes down to the individual looking at the parts. We have not even talked about shipping yet.. Trust me you guys have it easy.

If you are having alarm problems on your 96, I would try this first

NO: 08-01-99
SUBJECT: Vehicle Security System Malfunctions
DATE: Jan. 22, 1999
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves replacing the underhood security switch and bracket. Then installing a jumper harness and rerouting the underhood security switch wiring.

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The vehicle security alarm system may fail to arm properly, go off without an apparent reason or cause the battery to go dead. These symptoms may be due to the underhood security switch location.

PARTS REQUIRED:
Qty Part No. Description
1 04687594AB Switch, Underhood Security
1 04848283AC Bracket, Underhood Security
1 05014020AB Jumper Harness, Underhood Security Kit
1 04778570 Shrink Tube