Oil Cooler Lines Replacement Recommendations?

[DMan]

Prepping the car for the spring and while on the stands I noticed my 08 has the telltale oil drip coming from the oil line from the cooler. I've done some searching and found a thread on a custom setup, not looking to go that fancy (or cool), but wanted to check in if there are any other simple (straight bolt on) options to just factory replacements? Since a factory line is leaking & are kind of known to be a 'problem', albeit infrequent, figured it couldn't hurt to see if there are alternatives. If not, I'll just hit up a vendor on a factory replacement I guess. Thanks, guys.

Dave.

 

[MTGTS]

Don't get OEM's again, try Viper Specialty or Snake Oyl lines

 

[agdetail]

The vendor lines are 400 for the pair much more expensive then the after market racing lines. You can build your own stainless lines for $120.

Original lines have a crimping problem so it will eventually leak.

 

[plumcrazy]

wouldnt be hard to have a shop make up replacements if you bring the old ones in. any industrial rubber/hose shop can do it

 

[DMan]

Viper Specialty peaces ... drooool. Daddy like, looks like $295, seems like a great deal, may pull that trigger today.

 

[cowger]

I'm right in the middle of replacing mine on my Gen3. I'm making my own hoses using components like these from Jegs.com

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It's a piece of cake and you can get all kinds of different colors on the anodized aluminum pieces. They are also gorgeous to look at. Total cost around $175 with black plastic braided hose; if you want braided stainless, it's just a bit more.

If interested, I have the list of parts and was going to post it all later once I'm all done (with pics).

Bryan

 

[lmcgrew79]

I took mine to a hydralic hose place here locally, and they refitted and crimped new hoses to the aluminum connectors. Said the existing crimp wasnt very good. Cost like 40 bucks.

 

[Viper Specialty]

I do not advise using JIC [AN] ends - they are only single swivel, not dual. The JIC ends can work their way loose due to engine movement. The other downside is installation and removal: JIC conical ends are far more prone to failure from physical damage, as well as failure at the internal ring that allows the end to spin without falling off. This "ring" can gall internally after the ends are tight, and will make the hose extremely difficult to remove, requiring line replacement after failure as you cannot tighten it back into place. This is most common on -8 ends, but can occur on -10 as well. They are a little cheaper to make, but do not give you the range of movement and ease of fitting tightening/loosening as dual swivel direct port ends.

 

[cowger]

I do not advise using JIC [AN] ends - they are only single swivel, not dual. The JIC ends can work their way loose due to engine movement. The other downside is installation and removal: JIC conical ends are far more prone to failure from physical damage, as well as failure at the internal ring that allows the end to spin without falling off. This "ring" can gall internally after the ends are tight, and will make the hose extremely difficult to remove, requiring line replacement after failure as you cannot tighten it back into place. This is most common on -8 ends, but can occur on -10 as well. They are a little cheaper to make, but do not give you the range of movement and ease of fitting tightening/loosening as dual swivel direct port ends.

Dan, thanks for the warning, and I wish I would have known this before I bought all these AN fittings. They sure seemed like a good solution and a number of threads on this forum had been posted on them. (I get it that most likely folks don't follow up their posts if/when things start leaking...)

Obviously if leaks develop I'll know why and I guess I'll then need to replace them again, but anything I can do now to help minimize the risk? Blue locktite on the threads? Secure the lines to minimize movement?

Thanks,
Bryan

 

[DMan]

Just ordered from Viper Specialty Performance.



MODERATOR EDIT: Link to non-site sponsor removed.

 

[FLATOUT]

Made my own two weeks ago using aeroquip fittings as I started with the jegs versions below and could never get them to seal properly. Definitely glad I did them myself though, fun little project.

I'm right in the middle of replacing mine on my Gen3. I'm making my own hoses using components like these from Jegs.com

You must be registered for see images

It's a piece of cake and you can get all kinds of different colors on the anodized aluminum pieces. They are also gorgeous to look at. Total cost around $175 with black plastic braided hose; if you want braided stainless, it's just a bit more.

If interested, I have the list of parts and was going to post it all later once I'm all done (with pics).

Bryan

 

[Viper Parts of America]

Brand new OEM (08-10) lists for less than $175 for both lines and comes with a factory warranty. 03-06 is under $130 at your local Mopar dealer.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Dan, thanks for the warning, and I wish I would have known this before I bought all these AN fittings. They sure seemed like a good solution and a number of threads on this forum had been posted on them. (I get it that most likely folks don't follow up their posts if/when things start leaking...)

Obviously if leaks develop I'll know why and I guess I'll then need to replace them again, but anything I can do now to help minimize the risk? Blue locktite on the threads? Secure the lines to minimize movement?

Thanks,
Bryan

Put a couple drops of oil into the hole where the lock is pushed into the JIC nut, and spin it to lubricate the ring. Also use Blue Lock-Tite. I personally would not use the lines more than once or twice- if you ever remove them, plan on replacing them.

 

[Allan]

Just replace the lines with OEM stuff. When they leak, you replace them again, and so on. That's what I do. For as hard as I drive this car, and the amount of fun that it is, if this is the only hassle, I ain't gonna complain. -also, with the oem parts, at least you know they'll fit.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Just replace the lines with OEM stuff. When they leak, you replace them again, and so on. That's what I do. For as hard as I drive this car, and the amount of fun that it is, if this is the only hassle, I ain't gonna complain. -also, with the oem parts, at least you know they'll fit.

And you also know they will look boring, and fail again. Or you can just fix it right, and be done with it, and have something that looks a lot better.

Would you keep using the OEM engine mounts if the engine fell out every other oil change?

 

[DMan]

Just replace the lines with OEM stuff. When they leak, you replace them again, and so on. That's what I do. For as hard as I drive this car, and the amount of fun that it is, if this is the only hassle, I ain't gonna complain. -also, with the oem parts, at least you know they'll fit.

Or you can spend $100 more once & be done with it period. Just sayin. That's why I wanted to survey better replacements than just OEM, I'll have paid for the replacement parts and then some with just one OEM failure in the future.

Now if I could just get my new wheels & tires mounted, I'd make real progress .... just pathetic I don't have the car ready for Spring yet.

 

[cowger]

Put a couple drops of oil into the hole where the lock is pushed into the JIC nut, and spin it to lubricate the ring. Also use Blue Lock-Tite. I personally would not use the lines more than once or twice- if you ever remove them, plan on replacing them.

Very good, thanks Dan!

 

[cowger]

After recommending the JIC / AN fittings for this (above), I want to jump back in and agree with Dan (and Flatout, for that matter) and his warning not to use these for this application. I got both lines installed last night, fired up the engine, and found leaks (drips) on both engine connections. I was finally able to stop the leaks by really cranking on the connections, but given how extremely awkward it is to get to those two connections, it's not easy to torque the nuts and I'm not left with a great sense of confidence that this is a long-term solution. I'm going to keep a close eye on them, at least for the first few hundred miles, and if a leak returns, I'll have to figure out something else...

Bryan

 

[Steve M]

If it really is a crimp problem with the OEM lines, and not a fitting issue, then just taking it to a local hydraulic shop should fix the issue, as stated above.

 

[Viper Specialty]

After recommending the JIC / AN fittings for this (above), I want to jump back in and agree with Dan (and Flatout, for that matter) and his warning not to use these for this application. I got both lines installed last night, fired up the engine, and found leaks (drips) on both engine connections. I was finally able to stop the leaks by really cranking on the connections, but given how extremely awkward it is to get to those two connections, it's not easy to torque the nuts and I'm not left with a great sense of confidence that this is a long-term solution. I'm going to keep a close eye on them, at least for the first few hundred miles, and if a leak returns, I'll have to figure out something else...

Bryan

No need to "figure out" anything

 

[agdetail]

Just did mine yesterday. Lots of swearing and tag team with my friend. Took 8 hours. Did my oil change also. Make sure to dump a can of sea foam. Last oil change was less than 1k and after a can the sea foam was very black.

Would advise removing the oil filter for easier access. I did mine on jack stands.

Another tip is attach the hose partially to the fitting and then tighten both down for the bottom engine hoses. I couldn't get the threads to catch without doing that step. Think all in all I wasted at least an hour or 2 because of the bottom hoses.

 

[FLATOUT]

Exactly, and AN fittings should have to be over torqued to seal properly. I threw them in the trash and bought the aeroquips and they sealed perfectly the first time and have not leaked since.

The OE stockers are complete crap so if you want to put them back on you'll just deal with the issue down the road again.

After recommending the JIC / AN fittings for this (above), I want to jump back in and agree with Dan (and Flatout, for that matter) and his warning not to use these for this application. I got both lines installed last night, fired up the engine, and found leaks (drips) on both engine connections. I was finally able to stop the leaks by really cranking on the connections, but given how extremely awkward it is to get to those two connections, it's not easy to torque the nuts and I'm not left with a great sense of confidence that this is a long-term solution. I'm going to keep a close eye on them, at least for the first few hundred miles, and if a leak returns, I'll have to figure out something else...

Bryan

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

the oem lines are really easy to take off, you will see a black sleeve near the fitting on the line at the block and cooler, slide that back, then as others say , take a pick or pocket screwdriver, and the clip that retains the lines in the fitting will pop off, then take and remove the line from the oem fittings at the block and the cooler,usually too remove the lines at the block first, that way you can let what little oil is in the lines drain out, usually less than a pint or so.

we used to do the an fittings, but over time we found they would tend to seep oil ever so slightly, so sense we work closely with goodridge usa, we have them build ours now for the truck srt's, that are crimped on the ends, we offer a lifetime warranty with them , an to this day havent replaced a set yet.

getting the correct hose and ends is the key, also if you use an fittings, be sure not to use any type of thread sealer, and be very very careful not to overtighten them, that is the most common problem with an fittings, folks crankin down on them like they would a steel fitting.