Programming Alarm/Remote on 96 GTS

costanZo

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Hey, I had someone send me the 96 Service Manual and I read the instructions on how to program a new alarm/remote to my car so I will have a spare but it's not working?

I believe it says to press both the "lock" and "unlock" buttons continuously at the same time on the remote for about 10 seconds and you will hear the horn chirp 3 times..

I do this and nothing happens.. Unless the battery is dead; but it was brand new and sealed in the plastic bag it came in; so I don't see how the battery would need to be replaced already?

Also, if this is really how you program a remote for the alarm- couldn't you walk up next to any Viper and do the same thing? That doesn't sound too secure to me so I must be missing something? :confused:

I've also only tried doing this with the car being off; however, my father tried doing it with both the car on and off and still nothing...
 
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costanZo

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Don't trust the battery just because it's new in the cellophane.

Also, I think programming remotes is a DRBIII dealer thing. I may be wrong on that.

I ordered a spare key and alarm/remote keychain from Chuck Tator. He just told me to get my hands on a service manual and I would be all set. I currently have the older 96 version of the alarm/remote. It looks like crap and its hard to press the buttons. You have to like press it a few times towards the upper part of the button for the car to actually lock/unlock. I'm just tired of using it and don't wanna risk using it all the time and then it breaking and me being screwed not being able to lock/unlock my car :mad:
 
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costanZo

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I got three spares when I bought my car. But they had to be reset by my dealer. Only took a minute.

That's good to know...... but how do you do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! haha ;)

I got my viper from a private seller; do I just go to a local Dodge Dealership?
 

Kmrumedy

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I bought my GTS from a private seller too. I made the service manager at the dealership my new best friend!!

I show with coffee and donuts for his service team when i drop by. It has paid off with lots of value add and help. When I have projects, he lets me work with his ViperTech so I can learn as work is being done. Probably takes longer because of my stupid questions which the service manager likes because he charges me in 15 minute increments and I like it because it helps me learn the car without costly mistakes. Like working with a safety net.

The key programming is done for free and if they think you will be a good customer they should go out of their way to help you. Its just good business.
 

Steve-Indy

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Sounds as though you MAY be confusing re-syncing the fobs with programming the fobs...REMEMBER, to do the latter, you need to ground the green wire on the EEM and follow the directions...either those posted here by Ron...or the service manual. Feel free to get help via phone...as SO MUCH more can be determined with a two way discussion.

ONCE AGAIN...here's Ron's post:



Originally posted by Ron:

1. Ensure the alarm system is not armed.

2. (1996 ~ 1998 GEN II) Ground pin C13 loose green wire taped to harness of EEM connector, which is under dash mounted on the left side of trans tunnel, directly above accelerator. Easy access if you remove knee bolster and rubber bungee cord that holds EEM to tunnel.

2A. (1999 ~ 2000) As #2, but instead of C13 you're grounding Terminal 1 of the DLC. (9/30 update...Ron found out that DLC is the Data Link Connector, i.e. the under dash OBD2 connector which is above your left knee)

2B. (ALL GEN I) Ground green "Program" Wire located next to SAM and RKE modules. Is a green wire with a bullet connector on end. Is located under driver's side instrument panel.

Hint, Make sure you're connecting to a solid body ground by testing it with an ohm meter.

3. Turn ignition to run position while green wire is still grounded!

4. EEM acknowledges entry into programming mode by flashing the dash LED. If it doesn't flash, you either:

- Have the wrong wire

- Aren't solidly grounded

- You came off ground after the ignition switch was placed in the run position. Start over.

5. (All GEN II) Press BOTH buttons on the transmitter simultaneously and continuously for 10 seconds. You will hear a triple horn chirp when FOB is accepted by the EEM.

5B. (All GEN I) Press and release the arm or disarm button on either FOB, then same for the next.

Hint: Make sure your transmitter is working, i.e fresh CR2032 battery $1.19 @ Zbattery.com and good clean battery contacts. Many times your problem is an electrically weak connection within the FOB itself.

6. You MUST program all FOBS during the same programming process. You can program up to 4 on a GEN II and I think only 2 on a GEN I.

That's it. Turn the ignition off and remove green wire from ground, then test the arm and disarm functions.

I've done 4 FOBS myself and found it quite easy once you find the green wire.
 

RTTTTed

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I sent him an email asking about how to find the green wire on an '01 (since the article stops at 2000). Anyone know? If it's the same as the 00 then the pin 1 is the top left pin in the connector?

Ted
 

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