question about the 1994 clutch

[Qualitywires.com]

The guy who bought my 1994 RT/10 called me today and asked me a question about a problem he is having. When the clutch is fully pressed down and goes to start it, it won't. When he has it push started and pops the clutch it starts up fine. I told him I would post this for him.

Any idea? Is there a clutch sensor on the pedal or what do you think it is?

Thanks in advance

 

[Qualitywires.com]

This guy doesn't have internet access...otherwise I would have him do it himself...I told him I would check. That's what I thought Tony..it's some type of switch. Anyone else? thanks

 

[jgfurr]

I was having the same problem when I first got my 94. The problem was me. I was positive I was pushing the clutch in all the way, but I really wasn't. If my clutch isn't firmly pushed all the way down, it doesn't start. I'd tell the guy to try moving his seat forward one or two notches. He may find that uncomfortable for the gas/brake, but he could try it for a couple days and see. Since the clutch thrown is soooo much longer than the brake or gas, I'll bet he's not putting it all the way down.

 

[CAP]

I had the problem in my '96. The clutch pedal pivots on plastic bushings. The bushings wear and the switch that needs to be engaged does not. It was a pretty quick fix once I told my Viper tech where to look. (I got the information here years ago.)

 

[David Jenkins]

When the pedal bushings are worn, the pedal actually hits a raised spot on the floor pan due to the excessive side to side movement. Try pushing the pedal down and to the right. This makes the pedal miss the raised spot on the floor and allows the car to start. The quickest fix, until it can be repaired correctly, is to install a zip tie underneath the clutch safety switch. Simply slide the switch up and install zip tie under the switch. This raises the switch enough to make up for the worn bushings. These bushings are often overlooked during a lubrication service. Dan Cragin was working on a brass bushing kit to replace the plactic pieces.dj

 

[Kurt 97 GTS]

I recently encountered this problem on my 94. I had the bushing replaced and it made all the difference in the world!!! Hope this helps....Kurt

 

[Jack B]

Pull out the carpet

 

[Qualitywires.com]

where did you get your bushings?

 

[Kurt 97 GTS]

I had my friendly (and knowledgable) Viper tech do this for me!!

 

[ACELLR8]

Jay,

My 95 was giving me grief starting about 4 months ago, it was actually like that when I bought it.

The problem was that the pedal was bent ever so slightly to the left. It is not very hard to do, since the pedals are offset in that direction anyways. So when I went to start it, I had to push the pedal in and push it towards the right once depressed fully. This allowed the pedal to clear a metal bracket to the left of the clutch mounting point. It started every time when I did this and it probably was an added security measure on the car, seeing knowone else could start it besides me and my wife.
Anyhow, I had the clutch arm (part # 21030002), snap ring (part # 18051002), bushing P (part # 5027002) and shaft pedal (part # 5027003) replaced under warranty. Not sure of the cost because they did not put prices in the invoice. I have not had the problem since and the clutch feels much better being in the correct position.
I looked at the whole assembly and it looks very simple to do, but that is just from my observation. If it was not a warranty thing, I would have done it myself.

Hope this helps some>
Ed

 

[ACELLR8]

Ok, I just read the whole thread, sounds exactly like what David Jenkins stated.

I probably only needed to have the bushing changed but since they did the whole thing, I can not complain. But if just replacing the bushing does not help, maybe you could try the other parts.

Ed

 

[Ron Weickart]

I had this "safety feature" switch changed out on my 1994 RT/10 early on, perhaps when it was a year old. The symptoms were as you described, occasionally not starting until it finally failed.

Essentially The "safety feature" switch eliminates the possibility of starting the engine while the car is in gear. The switch can be bypassed with a little jumper lead. The car can also be started by way of a push start and a pop of the clutch.

I had this "safety feature" switch changed out by a Viper Tech while the car was still under warranty.

 

[Bad_Byte]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by jgfurr:
I was having the same problem when I first got my 94. The problem was me. I was positive I was pushing the clutch in all the way, but I really wasn't. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I have the same brain hemmorage from time to time. Especially since I put in thicker floor mats. Just the extra padding causes me to have to push that much harder.

I'd say the guy should do some heavy leg presses and get used to having a heavy clutch. Its a matter of millimeters.

Of course he could always check the clutch swith.