Roe **** Injection problem

[Marc Lublin]

I have Roe's **** injection on my SC car. I noticed today that it stopped working, lucily I just happened to be watching my AF gauge. I haven't had time to search it out, but here's what I see happening. If I press and hold the purge button, the LED comes on not quite as bright as it should (a hair dimmer) and there is a rythmic slight blinking about every 1/2 second with no water/**** spraying. I quickly tried resetting the connections to the VEC3, but still have the same result. Had to go to work, so I will check further later. I just wanted to know if anyone experienced anything similar.

 

[Viperless]

Check the pickup tube in the tank. Make sure it's sitting at the bottom of the tank. When I installed mine, I twisted the quick connect fitting on the tank which in turn rotated the pickup tube so that it was a few inches off the bottom. I didn't have enough water in the tank to cover the tube so it was sucking air.

 

[Marc Lublin]

Pickup is deep in there, with several inches of water/**** over it.

Thanks

 

[99 R/T 10]

Is it possible the pump is starting to sieze up?

 

[Marc Lublin]

It's probably the pump, but I will check all connections later. Does anyone have spare installation instructions you can scan and email me. I don't remember where I ran the wires or what I put in with this kit. It will probably make it easier when I trace the problem later. If you do please email to [email protected]

Thanks in advance!

 

[plumcrazy]

thats what scares me the most about water/****...if it goes on ya under WOT and boost, it cant be a good thing. and those little plastic tubes dont look great either

 

[Camfab]

Water injection has been around for years, it's popularity cycles with each new generation. It's hyped like the greatest new invention each time, then a bunch of motors grenade because they fail over time. It's either operator error, forget to fill it up or mechanical failure. I had it on a blown Camaro 15 years ago, I hated the fact that you always had to keep an eye on the fluid level. I also noted corrosion forming on the carb with only a month of use. I pullled the unit and switched to 5 gallons of good gas with each tank. It's a band - aid fix for an improperly designed system.

 

[Marc Lublin]

I'm a fan of it as you can get a lot more out of a boosted motor. Like anything else it can fail. What I have learned over the years of having a high hp sc motor is that you can never be complacent. AF is always changing with the weather and if you are trying to maximize your power that those AF changes can put you in trouble and cause detonation. I have a very good ear and feel for how my car is running and we have gauges in our cars for a reason. These high hp motors are basically race engines, and if you don't keep a close eye, anything can happen. There are many DLM motors running with an extra fuel cell of race fuel to do just the same and more & the same can happen with those pumps too.
With all that said, nobody has the install they can scan?

 

[plumcrazy]

i hear ya, wish i could help ya marc, good luck

 

[Marc Lublin]

Thanks Phil

 

[Camfab]

I'm a fan of it as you can get a lot more out of a boosted motor. Like anything else it can fail. What I have learned over the years of having a high hp sc motor is that you can never be complacent. AF is always changing with the weather and if you are trying to maximize your power that those AF changes can put you in trouble and cause detonation. I have a very good ear and feel for how my car is running and we have gauges in our cars for a reason. These high hp motors are basically race engines, and if you don't keep a close eye, anything can happen. There are many DLM motors running with an extra fuel cell of race fuel to do just the same and more & the same can happen with those pumps too.
With all that said, nobody has the install they can scan?

Marc is your car a daily driver? If so, I can understand your desire to tune it with water injection. Conversely it increases your odds of failure, either mechanical or human error. In CA where I'm at, we have several stations that pump TRICK 100 unleaded fuel. The fuel runs about $ 6.50/ gal. You can mix it with super to your desired octane rating.

I realize it's more money to fill up, but it eliminates at least one potential failure point. If you think about it, a blown motor is going to cost you at least $ 15,000. That's about 2,300 gallons of 100 octane gas. Just something to think about. Good Luck with your problem solving, sounds like your car is a beast.

 

[Pressured]

Water injection has been around for years, it's popularity cycles with each new generation. It's hyped like the greatest new invention each time, then a bunch of motors grenade because they fail over time. It's either operator error, forget to fill it up or mechanical failure. I had it on a blown Camaro 15 years ago, I hated the fact that you always had to keep an eye on the fluid level. I also noted corrosion forming on the carb with only a month of use. I pullled the unit and switched to 5 gallons of good gas with each tank. It's a band - aid fix for an improperly designed system.

I agree with what you are saying. However, with a set-up like the Roe, the water-**** increases fuel octane for more timing AND acts as an intercooler. I don't think race gas can lower discharge temps from the blower...can it?

 

[Camfab]

I agree with what you are saying. However, with a set-up like the Roe, the water-**** increases fuel octane for more timing AND acts as an intercooler. I don't think race gas can lower discharge temps from the blower...can it?

Your right, race gas will not act as an intercooler like the water injection unit. That was the real reason I used it as well. It seems to me that if your discharge temps are skyrocketing, your out of the blowers parameters. In my particular application (roots blower), the best power and consistency came with race gas.

 

[Pressured]

Your right, race gas will not act as an intercooler like the water injection unit. That was the real reason I used it as well. It seems to me that if your discharge temps are skyrocketing, your out of the blowers parameters. In my particular application (roots blower), the best power and consistency came with race gas.

Excellent point. It's a shame a bigger roots wont fit on our vipers. Imagine the kind of power with one of the new KB 2.8's or even the Whipple 3.4.

 

[Camfab]

Excellent point. It's a shame a bigger roots wont fit on our vipers. Imagine the kind of power with one of the new KB 2.8's or even the Whipple 3.4.

About 6 months ago, I called Kenne Bell and Whipple, I got the same answer from both. There is no demand for the product. The problem in the Viper world is two fold, first the production numbers are low. More importantly most owners go to Tuners, good for tuners, bad for the aftermarket. The aftermarket feels there is no demand for the product because most Viper owners just open up there wallets to what the tuner tells them to get. As the Gen II cars have become affordable, guys like me who thrive on building cars are pounding the walls because of a lack of parts availability.

I've tried convincing many aftermarket manufacturers that there is a demand for headers that don' t cost $2,000. I did the same thing at VOI with the Mopar Performance parts people. I told them that they should bring back all the Gen II parts as a whole new level of second generation buyers are coming online that actually wrench on their cars. I got big promises from one of the marketing reps who then promptly shut me down after numerous calls to her to purchase parts.

If Kenne Bell made a blower for the Gen II it would be in my car now. Okay sorry I took this thread off track.

 

[Marc Lublin]

Thanks for the input all. Turned out to be a bad relay. The relay was all corroded inside and only 8vdc was getting to the pump. I cleaned it up and it's working fine now, but I will install a new one once I get it.

Thanks again!

 

[plumcrazy]

nice to hear it was that easy and cheap to fix.

 

[Marc Lublin]

Just a tought. Has anyone used a pressure gauge with the **** system? I was thinking it would be simple to tee into the line before it splits into two and then run a gauge to the car. This way you can always see if the pump is putting out the correct pressure and will also show you situations where it's failing even though the LED is lit, such as in the situation I had or if you run out of water/****.

 

[ViperBing]

Just a tought. Has anyone used a pressure gauge with the **** system? I was thinking it would be simple to tee into the line before it splits into two and then run a gauge to the car. This way you can always see if the pump is putting out the correct pressure and will also show you situations where it's failing even though the LED is lit, such as in the situation I had or if you run out of water/****.

There is some guy called Razr (I think) that builds fancy **** kits for the Buick GN's. His kits have a light which comes on for correct line pressure I believe. He is also a huge proponent of running 100% ****.