RT/10 Trailer

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Anyone have any suggestions for affordable (simple in nature) pull behind trailer for our an RT stock weight?

I was lookiong for something under 1400 pounds and dual axel (from what I have read you don't want a single axel), open and that is pretty much it. But needs to be light weight. Also, anything else I should look for?

Thanks!
 

Tom F&L GoR

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ramp angle while loading and how you tip it.
can you open doors without hitting trailer fenders
if simple and inexpensive, you might be looking at a plain flatbed, so check for tie down loops being in a convenient spot
plan ahead - is there space for toolbox, jack, or spare tires?
 

Viper 55

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Tom's points above are well made. Also, getting a side door on driver's side of the trailer is important for easy access. I would say that a 28 ft. length, no smaller and enclosed. I think new, $8,000 is about right but used, you should obviously do better. Get the heavy duty straps for the tie downs and as Tom said, placement of the floor eye rings will be important. Get the wide trailer, with the trailer wheel wells located on the inside of the trailer, not outside. You'll have more room inside. It's tight as it is. We enjoy trailing. Good luck
 

TexasPettey

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You should talk to one of the local Gen1 owners who trailers his car to the track often.

How often do you plan to use it?
 

Bandit3

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The featherlites have removable fenders which allow the doors to open. I just bought a kit of straps and ratchets from Sumiit price was right--179 for all plus shipping. Contains all you'll need to tie the car down. You'll also need four boards about 2 ft long each to prevent the bottom of the car hitting the raised portions of the ramps. Summit # is MTD512208.
 
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You should talk to one of the local Gen1 owners who trailers his car to the track often.

How often do you plan to use it?

!@#$% Pett, I forgot you trailered yours! Well the trailer needs to weigh less than 13-1400 pounds. I only plan to use it a couple of times a year...maybe I can coax you into letting me borrow it? My SUV only towes 5000 pounds (or so it is rated for that)
 

TexasPettey

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I have a rental place that rents dual axel, metal floor open trailers with dovetail for $30/day. They are in decent shape mechanically, but not much to look at. There is no rock shield, so you'll need to rig something up. I can get my car on them, lowered as it is.

Every time I look at buying a trailer, it's hard to justify. The cost of storage alone is $20/month.
 
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I have a rental place that rents dual axel, metal floor open trailers with dovetail for $30/day. They are in decent shape mechanically, but not much to look at. There is no rock shield, so you'll need to rig something up. I can get my car on them, lowered as it is.

Every time I look at buying a trailer, it's hard to justify. The cost of storage alone is $20/month.


Do you know what the weight of the trailer is by chance?
 

Big Mac

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You might try "The Trailer Man" on hwy 290 in Manor. I used to own his "cadillac" dovetail trailer and it was great
 

Kala

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Look at the Featherlight 3110. Its an open trailer, all aluminum.

One that is less than 20' would probably hit the 1500 lb range.
In my 20' enclosed I have at least 3 ft available, maybe more.
You might be able to get a Viper on a 17'er.
 

steve911

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GO with the all aluminum trailer from ATC (aluminum trailer co.) I have an 18 footer tandem axle, torsion flex axles, dexter spindles, removable ramps and yes under 1500 lbs. Both fenders are removable although I can open my door without removing the fender.

I have one. I hauled my gen 3 all over the country without a problem.
 
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Jack B

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If the trailer does not have a ****** tail (drop) in the back, plus, long drive-on ramps you are going to have a very hard time getting the car on without damaging it. The problem is compounded by the fact that you have to drive it on, if there is interference, you will only know after the damage. You are also right, if the front of the trailer does not have a rock guard you will beat up the car.

Your 20-24 ft open trailers are going to weigh a minimum of 1000 lbs for an aluminum unit to over 2000 lbs for a steel trailer. I had a steel trailer, but traded it off very quickly for an aluminum model. I also installed a winch so that the car does not have to be driven on to the trailer. The 24 ft trailer gives you some extra storage space to the front. The 20 ft is fine and the 18" will work, but, it is a little tight.
 

Mopar Boy

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Yes, if you are going open deck, DO USE A STONEGUARD! You will be amazed otherwise how mnay stoned a Liberty will spit up, and what passing vehicles will throw at ya!:omg:

Do go aluminum. Do also pre test for front end clearance and door to fender clearance.

Robert
 

SoCal Rebell

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Great ideas...it needs to be less than 1400 pounds though...

OK, real world answer, I had a 2000 RT/10 that I tracked often. I bought 2 and other Viper friends buy another 3 Aztec 16 foot tandem open center (Oklahoma style) trailers. They are perfect, unfortuately they are in Beaumont, Ca., but maybe someone can build on to the same specs.

$1,500 got me a 1,200 lb. 2 axel trailer with one axel with electric brakes. It is the perfect length, it's "dovetailed" with 6 foot ramps, the Viper loads easily. Driver's side tilt fender so you can open the door and on each corner is a 6,000 lb. "D" ring. The open center makes it easy to attach "R" hooks to the frame and cross 4 8 ft. 10,000 lb. ratchet straps and attach to the "D" rings, the Viper is secure.

You can also add a spare tire, tool box and tire rack for extra $$$ if you wish. This setup works and can be hauled by a smaller vehicle. I used a Jeep GC 4.7 V8 4X4 with a class IV hitch and a 6,500 lb. limit up the steepest grades no sweat. I'm sure the Class III 5,000 lb. rated V6 Jeep would pull it.
 

AZTVR

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OK, real world answer, I had a 2000 RT/10 that I tracked often. I bought 2 and other Viper friends buy another 3 Aztec 16 foot tandem open center (Oklahoma style) trailers. They are perfect, unfortuately they are in Beaumont, Ca., but maybe someone can build on to the same specs.

$1,500 got me a 1,200 lb. 2 axel trailer with one axel with electric brakes. It is the perfect length, it's "dovetailed" with 6 foot ramps, the Viper loads easily. Driver's side tilt fender so you can open the door and on each corner is a 6,000 lb. "D" ring. The open center makes it easy to attach "R" hooks to the frame and cross 4 8 ft. 10,000 lb. ratchet straps and attach to the "D" rings, the Viper is secure.

Great post. That's the kind of thing I'm considering also. Do you know what the overall length is/was? Was that an aluminum trailer? (Probably not for that price; but, the weight is pretty low for steel) Is "Aztec" a builder or just a sales outlet ? Just wondering whether the trailer was built to order, or if it was something stock. I'll have to stop in there on my next trip to LA; but, that might not be for a while.

I'd rather buy a known quantity like this, rather than an unknown, local builder.
 

Bandit3

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With the Featherlite 3110, you'll probably get all or most of your money back when it comes time to sell. They are the "cadillac" of trailers.
 

HLN A55

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So what SUV did you get?

My trailer weighs in at just over 2k lbs-the only way that you are going to get to the numbers that you need is by going to an aluminium trailer.

Plus, listen to everyone else and make sure that you get the stone gaurd-your car is too pretty not to!

As far as where to buy-have you talked to Magnum? They might a bit on the pricey side, but sometimes have some used trailers for sale.

Edit-Make sure that at least one axle has brakes. When using the smaller SUV, you will definitely need the stopping assitance. With that said, also look into a high quality controller-I have the Tekonsha P3 and love it.
 
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So what SUV did you get?

My trailer weighs in at just over 2k lbs-the only way that you are going to get to the numbers that you need is by going to an aluminium trailer.

Plus, listen to everyone else and make sure that you get the stone gaurd-your car is too pretty not to!

As far as where to buy-have you talked to Magnum? They might a bit on the pricey side, but sometimes have some used trailers for sale.

Edit-Make sure that at least one axle has brakes. When using the smaller SUV, you will definitely need the stopping assitance. With that said, also look into a high quality controller-I have the Tekonsha P3 and love it.

Electric brakes...it has :)

I went with the Liberty (top of the top of the line liberty with all of the options of course ;) ) and sold the Mustang. Nice to have somewhat of a grown up car with all the trimmings. Just got back from camping this weekend with it and the dogs...and it was definately a lot better than doing it in the mustang.

Yes, will definately get the rock guard...or maybe just wrap some aluminum foils around the fascia?
 

Kala

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Yes, will definately get the rock guard...or maybe just wrap some aluminum foils around the fascia?
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