Sever GEN4 clutch issues

[Schulmann]

Guys,

In less then 8 months we had a second issue with the cluth master cylinder of a GEN4 Viper.

During a summer event a Viper nearly caught fire because the master cylinder started leaking. The driver didn't have much experience and didn't relize that something was wrong. He drove about 20 min in the city with the master cylinder leaking causing major domage to the clutch. He only stopped when the oil started to smoke like hell. That Viper had 1000mi and the guy was forced to pay $1500 to replace the clutch and the master cylinder. The dealer told him that he abused his Viper and the warranty was void.

Read this first post for more detail:
http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-srt10-coupe-discussions/616952-2008-double-clutch-reliability.html


Now we have a 2009 ACR that had the same issue with only 200mi. Fortunately the guy has stopped very quickly and didnt domage his clutch. He is a very experienced Viper driver. Now his ACR is waiting for the missing master cylinder and it will be covered by the warranty.

Anybody heard about this type of oil leak problem ?

 

[Viperless]

Guys,

In less then 8 months we had a second issue with the cluth master cylinder of a GEN4 Viper.

During a summer event a Viper nearly caught fire because the master cylinder started leaking. The driver didn't have much experience and didn't relize that something was wrong. He drove about 20 min in the city with the master cylinder leaking causing major domage to the clutch. He only stopped when the oil started to smoke like hell. That Viper had 1000mi and the guy was forced to pay $1500 to replace the clutch and the master cylinder. The dealer told him that he abused his Viper and the warranty was void.

Read this first post for more detail:
http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-srt10-coupe-discussions/616952-2008-double-clutch-reliability.html


Now we have a 2009 ACR that had the same issue with only 200mi. Fortunately the guy has stopped very quickly and didnt domage his clutch. He is a very experienced Viper driver. Now his ACR is waiting for the missing master cylinder and it will be covered by the warranty.

Anybody heard about this type of oil leak problem ?

Hmmm...I'll be checking mine very closely. Something is not quite right with my clutch. I figured it needed to be bled but maybe it's something else. As I'm driving, the engagement gets closer and closer to the floor. If I tap the clutch pedal several times in succession, it returns to normal.

 

[TCurtner]

Hmmm...I'll be checking mine very closely. Something is not quite right with my clutch. I figured it needed to be bled but maybe it's something else. As I'm driving, the engagement gets closer and closer to the floor. If I tap the clutch pedal several times in succession, it returns to normal.

Ditto for my 08 - gets worse as I drive uphill, going downhill, OR AS COOLS DOWN, seems to self-rectify.

 

[Herc]

Ditto for my 08 - gets worse as I drive uphill, going downhill, OR AS COOLS DOWN, seems to self-rectify.

I remember some issues with the clutch on an 05 I had, ended up that the hyd line
was overheating because it was close to the exhaust, the local race shop moved
it out of the way and secured it, no problem after that.
I also think I remember seeing a post on this back in 06 or so.

RD

 

[Schulmann]

This issue is not related to the exhaust heat. It is really a seal linking on the clutch master cylinder. Once it starts leaking the clutch is gone within 20-30 shifts. You can't even shift.

 

[TCurtner]

This issue is not related to the exhaust heat. It is really a seal linking on the clutch master cylinder. Once it starts leaking the clutch is gone within 20-30 shifts. You can't even shift.

However, in my situation, car is still perfectly drivable - except when doing uphill twisties with lots of curves (ie Tail of the Dragon type driving). After stop curves, or when go downhill (??) the clutch tends to 'come back'...very weird. How can I check from under the car to see what might be happening (don't have a manual yet).

I would add that at idle, the clutch/flywheel is starting to rattle significantly (900mi now) unless I push clutch in or am in gear going above 800rpm.

 

[Malu59RT]

I have the floating engagement problem as well, and the dealer has already bled the clutch once. I don't know what to do, but I don't want to worry about the line exploding and setting my Viper on fire. I don't know what I would do.

 

[TCurtner]

I have the floating engagement problem as well, and the dealer has already bled the clutch once. I don't know what to do, but I don't want to worry about the line exploding and setting my Viper on fire. I don't know what I would do.

OK - Update: just got back from doing the Dragon (U.S.129). Know I was exceeding expectations when I was making the crotch rockets let me by Before leaving (and as this situation has been 'evolving') have been checking the clutch master cylinder fluid level. There has been no change in the level, other than the first day that I had the sinking pedal issue. That was the day that the system burped, and I smelled the fluid (from the heat coming through the hood vents) and pulled over and cleaned it off of the inside of the fender liner (?) area. As of today, only the slightest of changes in the feel of the pedal, and again, no fluid level change. I think that there is/was air in the system, and it has been self correcting/purging. I will try to get under the Viper this weekend and make sure the line is as far away from the exhaust as is possible - any mods anyone know of done for cooling purposes? Anyway, perhaps several cars had fluid added at the clutch station from a shaken (not stirred) supplier's container on the line? Perhaps we should compare VINs?

 

[Viperless]

Does the clutch line come anywhere near the exhaust? I looked but all I could see were brake lines.

 

[Cop Magnet]

Maybe this is what was wrong with nemo's clutch.

 

[toomanymodz]

The factory fills the clutch master with DOT 3 fluid, which has a pretty low boiling point. I had the same issue with the pedal engagement going down to the floor on hot days. I changed the fluid over to ATE Super Blue and haven't had a problem since.

 

[TCurtner]

The factory fills the clutch master with DOT 3 fluid, which has a pretty low boiling point. I had the same issue with the pedal engagement going down to the floor on hot days. I changed the fluid over to ATE Super Blue and haven't had a problem since.

Sounds like a formula for a plan - shall implement on my 08 and post thereafter...

 

[Dan Cragin]

Call us and we can help.

 

[sun diego]

I've beaten mine like a rented mule for 8,000 miles with over 2,000 of those on the track with no problems. The clutch is fine on mine.

 

[TCurtner]

I've beaten mine like a rented mule for 8,000 miles with over 2,000 of those on the track with no problems. The clutch is fine on mine.

Well, there is nothing like the Dragon to stress test transmission related parts - the shifting (for me at least - perhaps I'm doing too much of it?) is continuous it seems. The ONLY place that my clutch reacts adversely is the middle of the 11 mile section going primarily UPHILL - and again, at this time the problem seems to have improved to almost being negligible. After leaving 129 to go to Fonatana, for instance, all is well after that point. Anyone else only see the issue in extremely busy (shifting wise) sections of tracks/roads?

 

[Steve-Indy]

So far, our 08's clutch seems to be OK.

For the record, the factory fill for the clutch is/has been for several years DOT 4 Brake/Clutch fluid.

 

[toomanymodz]

Dot 4. You are correct. Typo....my bad.
Here are some interesting comparisons:

Typical Dot 4 fluid: dry boil is 446°F (when fluid is completely free of contaminants) and wet boil is 311°F (when fluid absorbs moisture).

ATE Super Blue (or type 200 amber): dry boil is 536°F and wet boil is 388°F

It clearly gives an extra margin of safety. The line between the clutch master and slave is quite close to the headers. It probably wouldn't hurt to wrap it with high-heat wrapping.

 

[TCurtner]

Dot 4. You are correct. Typo....my bad.
Here are some interesting comparisons:

Typical Dot 4 fluid: dry boil is 446°F (when fluid is completely free of contaminants) and wet boil is 311°F (when fluid absorbs moisture).

ATE Super Blue (or type 200 amber): dry boil is 536°F and wet boil is 388°F

It clearly gives an extra margin of safety. The line between the clutch master and slave is quite close to the headers. It probably wouldn't hurt to wrap it with high-heat wrapping.

Would I have to flush and clean before going to this type, or just start with a positive pressure flush and go until the new stuff starts exiting the bleed valve ?

 

[bluesrt]

you got it