In the last week I have had two SRT 10 Vipers towed in with clutch engagement problems. Both had air in the hydraulic system. My only guess is that they boiled the fluid. I heard this had happened on the SRT truck, is this also a problem on the Vipers? I hope bleeding the system with Motul 600 and shielding the clutch line will correct it. Am I missing something?
SRT 10 Clutch problems, anyone seen this?
- Thread starter Daniel Cragin/DC Performance Inc
- Start date
Skip White
Enthusiast
The Clutch line is shielded if memory serves me,probably poorly. Dan these cars are hell to get the air out, sometimes.
A remote temp sensor in the system could sure tell if this is going on.
I have lousy engagement on my new setup, and the manufactor swears the specs are all oem. I even sent my old setup to them to analize it. They said air in the system. So I bled it, and no improvement. I'm having to go near the bottom nearly to shift. A little bit of air would cause this, yet not give a funny pedel feel. My car had the hydro system replaced at 400 miles, and the clutch was glazed badly from running around like that. This was on the day I purchased it with 400 miles on it.
Let me know what works.
Skip White
ps, high temp fluid, if thats what's needed would help, but I understand it has a very high affinity to moisture if over heated, and as you know moisture will allow the fluid to heat up easier, and you have air problems again. I don't really know???? Do they offer a course in clutch problems
A remote temp sensor in the system could sure tell if this is going on.
I have lousy engagement on my new setup, and the manufactor swears the specs are all oem. I even sent my old setup to them to analize it. They said air in the system. So I bled it, and no improvement. I'm having to go near the bottom nearly to shift. A little bit of air would cause this, yet not give a funny pedel feel. My car had the hydro system replaced at 400 miles, and the clutch was glazed badly from running around like that. This was on the day I purchased it with 400 miles on it.
Let me know what works.
Skip White
ps, high temp fluid, if thats what's needed would help, but I understand it has a very high affinity to moisture if over heated, and as you know moisture will allow the fluid to heat up easier, and you have air problems again. I don't really know???? Do they offer a course in clutch problems
Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
The boiling point of the clutch fluid is, of course, on the container. To boil, it has to get a around that temperature or higher. If it is in the range of the brake temp crayons or stickers, perhaps those temperature indicators could be placed on or around the hydraulic line and see what the peak temps are.
After boiling, wouldn't the air come out of the system. I say this because mine (a '94) leaks and when I refill, the bubbles come up back into the reservoir.
After boiling, wouldn't the air come out of the system. I say this because mine (a '94) leaks and when I refill, the bubbles come up back into the reservoir.
VIPER D
Viper Owner
The Clutch line is shielded if memory serves me,probably poorly. Dan these cars are hell to get the air out, sometimes.
A remote temp sensor in the system could sure tell if this is going on.
I have lousy engagement on my new setup, and the manufactor swears the specs are all oem. I even sent my old setup to them to analize it. They said air in the system. So I bled it, and no improvement. I'm having to go near the bottom nearly to shift. A little bit of air would cause this, yet not give a funny pedel feel. My car had the hydro system replaced at 400 miles, and the clutch was glazed badly from running around like that. This was on the day I purchased it with 400 miles on it.
Let me know what works.
Skip White
ps, high temp fluid, if thats what's needed would help, but I understand it has a very high affinity to moisture if over heated, and as you know moisture will allow the fluid to heat up easier, and you have air problems again. I don't really know???? Do they offer a course in clutch problems
Skip
What brand clutch/fly wheel do you have in srt?
vd..
Dr Roof
Enthusiast
MY clutch has been bad since I had the car!
Matter of fact it is in the Garage now and I cannot get the thing in Gear!!
I guess I will call the tow truck
Matter of fact it is in the Garage now and I cannot get the thing in Gear!!
I guess I will call the tow truck
David, weren't clutch bolt torque specs also a question on 04 SRT-10 Vipers, or was it just SRT-10 Rams ???
Dr Roof
Enthusiast
Not sure,
When the Recall was done I told the Tech about the clutch being stiff and of course it was fine while at the shop! (hate that! everytime things that are bad work fine when you need to show them to someone) anyway it took a dump so I am taking it today to the local dealer to see what it is.
I will update!
When the Recall was done I told the Tech about the clutch being stiff and of course it was fine while at the shop! (hate that! everytime things that are bad work fine when you need to show them to someone) anyway it took a dump so I am taking it today to the local dealer to see what it is.
I will update!
Skip White
Enthusiast
Vd, the clutch is a spec 3 drilled p.p. and the flywheel is a Fidanza, the disc, is a 6 puck, somewhat aggresive setup, light chatter if your loping around in a parking lot. over 20lb reduction in weight.
I really don't think the fluid is boiling, as all these cars are setup identical, and there is a sheath around the line coming from the trans.
The LS1 guys have been plauged with this more times than you can imagine. They have had better luck with different fluids, but not nessasarly extreme high temp ones. I can't recall the ones they use. Some are to sensitive and have to be changed out very often.
Remember this rule of thumb,
Hard pedal, you have air in the slave, and if you have air in the brake master, no hard pedal, or is it the other way around?????
I really don't think the fluid is boiling, as all these cars are setup identical, and there is a sheath around the line coming from the trans.
The LS1 guys have been plauged with this more times than you can imagine. They have had better luck with different fluids, but not nessasarly extreme high temp ones. I can't recall the ones they use. Some are to sensitive and have to be changed out very often.
Remember this rule of thumb,
Hard pedal, you have air in the slave, and if you have air in the brake master, no hard pedal, or is it the other way around?????
PBJ
Enthusiast
Hey guys,
I had one with the flywheel bolts loose and ready to fall out. I have heard from another dealer that he has had the same problems. His was an issue with clutch engagement if I am not mistaken. If the flywheel is moving it could cause the slave to take in air if the disc and plate are moving around also ( I am not sure how , but anything is possible )...this could be our next cam bolt issue. I know the clutch can't take any drag racing at all...I have already been down that road. I have two to put in as we speak. One of the cars has less than 1500 miles. Keep us informed on the outcome.
Later,
Joe
I had one with the flywheel bolts loose and ready to fall out. I have heard from another dealer that he has had the same problems. His was an issue with clutch engagement if I am not mistaken. If the flywheel is moving it could cause the slave to take in air if the disc and plate are moving around also ( I am not sure how , but anything is possible )...this could be our next cam bolt issue. I know the clutch can't take any drag racing at all...I have already been down that road. I have two to put in as we speak. One of the cars has less than 1500 miles. Keep us informed on the outcome.
Later,
Joe
PBJ
Enthusiast
Hey Skip,
I have almost stopped using SPEC for clutches when a t56 is involved, 9 out of 10 have the exact problem you describe. I can put in a centerforce and I have a perfect pedal without bleeding the slave again. Spec will tell you to add a shim behind the slave to move it closer...what a crock. I have made adjustable shafts for the master cylinder for f-bodies and it helps, but there has to be a problem with their discs. I don't think air is an issue.
Later,
Joe
I have almost stopped using SPEC for clutches when a t56 is involved, 9 out of 10 have the exact problem you describe. I can put in a centerforce and I have a perfect pedal without bleeding the slave again. Spec will tell you to add a shim behind the slave to move it closer...what a crock. I have made adjustable shafts for the master cylinder for f-bodies and it helps, but there has to be a problem with their discs. I don't think air is an issue.
Later,
Joe
Skip White
Enthusiast
Yes Joe, I'm in an R/D stage on clutches. I wish I had a dollar for every time I've heard how great the OEM clutch is with a modded car, and I also wish I had a dollar for every Viper that found out differently.
Only problem I have with the Center Force, is there several pounds heaveir than the already heavy oem unit, its much better than the oem, but really not much. I'll let you know when I find the perfect setup,(light, strong,accurate and low cost). If there is such a thing. The next time I put in a new style clutch setup, I'm going to measure the lift point of the plate, in ratio to the diaphrams movement, the disc thickness, the distance of the plate to the face of the flywheel, the diaphram position to the slave, and the flywheel position from the crank, in comparison to an oem unit that I know is where it should be. The LS1 guys have been through it more than the Viper guys.
Skip W
Only problem I have with the Center Force, is there several pounds heaveir than the already heavy oem unit, its much better than the oem, but really not much. I'll let you know when I find the perfect setup,(light, strong,accurate and low cost). If there is such a thing. The next time I put in a new style clutch setup, I'm going to measure the lift point of the plate, in ratio to the diaphrams movement, the disc thickness, the distance of the plate to the face of the flywheel, the diaphram position to the slave, and the flywheel position from the crank, in comparison to an oem unit that I know is where it should be. The LS1 guys have been through it more than the Viper guys.
Skip W
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