T-56 Clutch Install Insight

[Kevan]

Hey folks.
After blowing up the plastic slave cylinder in the truck yesterday (sounded like a gunshot! LOL), the replacing of the clutch is upon me quicker than I had planned.

I have a few days before the parts package arrives, so I wanted to ask the members here if they have any insight or tips in regards to the installation of a new clutch (Centerforce) and slave cylinder.

I did figure out a trick way to keep the OEM clutch master cylinder and braided line, so I will be upgrading all components and lines with AN fittings.
Details will be in my DIY article.


Thanks in advance!

 

[Dan Cragin]

There are many things to consider when changing a SRT Ram clutch. If you change anything from stock, you must change many other components.

If you change to the Viper slave you need to change other components.

feel free to call for advise.

 

[Kevan]

Thanks Dan! I appreciate the open offer.

The proper shims for the TOB have also been ordered (come with the clutch/cylinder package).

I also know about the quick-connect fittings on the Viper slave cylinder, and that a new clutch MC with the matching fittings is usually used.
I found a way around that.

Anything else I should put on the list?


(If you listen close, you can hear Kevan as he sighs and wishes he was closer to Dan so he wouldn't have to roll around on the garage floor for 2 nights. LOL)

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Make sure the pilot shaft fits well. I bought a LUK and it came with a splined shaft that was too small and I had to center the clutch by hand.

 

[dave6666]

Make sure the pilot shaft fits well. I bought a LUK and it came with a splined shaft that was too small and I had to center the clutch by hand.

The problem with the alignment tool is pretty well known with the Luk kits, at least the ease-bay versions. And it may be the same at the big box store too.

I think the reason why is the tool and pilot bearing are both Corvette spec - smaller.

Anyway, I bought the universal centering tool made by KD Tools for $18.50 and it worked like a champ.

 

[Kevan]

Thanks guys.
This is my first T-56, so the tips go a LONG way.

Dave- got a part number for the KD alignment kit?

 

[dave6666]

KD Tools


Went up a few bucks but still an excellent tool.

KD Tools 2420 Clutch Aligning Tool Set KDT2420

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

KD Tools


Went up a few bucks but still an excellent tool.

KD Tools 2420 Clutch Aligning Tool Set KDT2420

Great! Just in time Dave. I've got the tranny and bell housing off and am ready to pull the clutch but was concerned about proper alignment. Placing the order for the tool now. Thanks.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

LOL. I just ordered it. A $21.50 tool becomes $32.59 with shipping and taxes. LOL.

 

[dave6666]

LOL. I just ordered it. A $21.50 tool becomes $32.59 with shipping and taxes. LOL.

But when you're stuck with an electric Honda in 10 years remember, it's a universal tool.

 

[Kevan]

LOL. I just ordered it. A $21.50 tool becomes $32.59 with shipping and taxes. LOL.

Hey Chuck- if I can borrow it for a week, I'll split the cost with ya.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

In the Viper it helps to have a 3' or longer socket extension. The passenger side upper bellhousing bolts are hard to get to and swing a wrench. Hopefully truck is more room.

Check your u-joints - good time to replace if needed.
Good time to change fluid if needed.

 

[Kevan]

Thanks Tom.
Fluid is planned, but I'll check on the u-joints too. Cheap, sound investment.

I'm doing a full DIY article on this with pics (like all my others).
If those that have done this before would like to critique or add to the article, I would appreciate it.

Heading down to remove the driveshaft now.
Thankfully, it's aluminum.

 

[Kevan]

You guys (and gals) are gonna love this.....

So, I get the truck ready to spend a few days out of service:

You must be registered for see images attach

*sigh*...damn huge driveshaft....:

You must be registered for see images attach

(and the [alleged] stainless steel Magnafail exhaust)

Wait a second.....*** is this?!?!?

You must be registered for see images attach

Smells like hydraulic fluid!

I pull the clutch MC, and remove it along with the entire line:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

"There's yer problem....":

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

I think I know how it happened too:
The amount of torque these things put out is up there kinda high (yeah- kinda).
As I was scooting into traffic, I was getting on the GO pedal fairly firmly, and with the 90 deg. turn involved the engine torqued just enough to pinch that line right there.
BLAMMO!

The connection at the MC is odd (2 split pins), so I'm going to have fun working up the new braided line and AN fittings.
But don't worry- I'll be sure to share on the trick setup when I'm finished.

Thanks everyone!