Transmission and rear end fluids
- Thread starter bhchase
- Start date
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
I use the stock Mopar fluids. Probably twice as expensive but the convenience is worth it to me. Make sure you get the correct stuff. My tech was mistakenly putting diff fluid in trannys. I do my own changes.
Be careful, there are several stock transmission fluids. You want the Mopar #4874459. It is made by Castrol. Their trade name is Syntorque LT. It is a 75/85 synthetic for high torque applications. Some Dodge and GM trucks use it. It pours like 30 weight oil. Don't use the Dexron II or III oils. You should be able to buy it for about $17/18 per quart and you need four quarts.
Any premium grade 75/140 weight synthetic can be used in the rear end. You also have to put in 4 oz of the limited slip fluid. If you use Royal Purple or Redline they claim you don't need the fluid.
Any premium grade 75/140 weight synthetic can be used in the rear end. You also have to put in 4 oz of the limited slip fluid. If you use Royal Purple or Redline they claim you don't need the fluid.
Ron
Enthusiast
Jack,
Same transmission, but in speaking with Borg Warner the other day (Borg made the T-56 back then) I was told the the blocker ring material might have changed in that time frame and they recommended following the TSB, i.e. only 1994 on up should consider Syntorq, 1992 and 1993 should stay with Dexron.
Same transmission, but in speaking with Borg Warner the other day (Borg made the T-56 back then) I was told the the blocker ring material might have changed in that time frame and they recommended following the TSB, i.e. only 1994 on up should consider Syntorq, 1992 and 1993 should stay with Dexron.
Whatever you do, do it yourself...this is a very simple process.
Just my opinion...after researching posts I decided on these fluids for a 95 with low miles, not track raced.
Trans - Mopar from dealer - synthetic, clear fluid (not red dextron) used in current Vipers, need 4 quarts. Easy to do with lift...take off trans skid plate, open drain plug, drain, close, open fill plug, get 3-4 inch tube just smaller than opening of trans, insert in trans and squeeze bottle in other end. This is a little tricky and messy because you need to try to cram the bottle up wherever you can to get it higher than the fill hole. I put almost all 4 quarts in and when I pulled out the tube a bunch leaked out which is good. Just have a funnel ready and wait until it stops, then plug.
Differential - Mopar from dealer, currently used in Viper, need 4 oz additive and 2 quarts fluid
I bought a suction device from Murrays for about $15 (it looks like a small bicycle air pump) and my dad worked one end inside the differential moving it all around in and out while I pumped a billion times until we were sure all was out. Put 4 oz. additive in first, then using same method as trans with small tube squeeze in 41-43 oz. until it overflows when tube is removed. Let drain and plug.
Coolant - Zerex G5 from Autozone. This was a long but relatively easy process because I only wanted distilled water in my Viper.
Power steering - Mopar from dealer, need 1 quart. Turkey baster, sucked out reservoir, wiped clean, filled, started car moved steering wheel back and forth 20 times, repeated entire process two more times. Drove car, drained and refilled one more time the next day.
Brake fluid - Motul 600 RBF. If you race your car use Castrol RBF for $80 per bottle(not the stuff at Autozone). You can get it at a motorcycle place for $10 per bottle. I bought 3 bottles to be sure I had enough but was told 1-2 will do. You can't keep this stuff so I'll use the extra in other cars. I bought a pressure tank and ordered the adapter to fit the Viper yesterday from Miller.
Clutch fluid - Motul 600 RBF. Turkey baster, sucked out reservoir, wiped clean, filled, pressed clutch 20 times, repeated entire process two more times. Drove car, drained and refilled one more time the next day. Be extra careful with Motul since it will eat paint, put tons of towels over everything.
Just my opinion...after researching posts I decided on these fluids for a 95 with low miles, not track raced.
Trans - Mopar from dealer - synthetic, clear fluid (not red dextron) used in current Vipers, need 4 quarts. Easy to do with lift...take off trans skid plate, open drain plug, drain, close, open fill plug, get 3-4 inch tube just smaller than opening of trans, insert in trans and squeeze bottle in other end. This is a little tricky and messy because you need to try to cram the bottle up wherever you can to get it higher than the fill hole. I put almost all 4 quarts in and when I pulled out the tube a bunch leaked out which is good. Just have a funnel ready and wait until it stops, then plug.
Differential - Mopar from dealer, currently used in Viper, need 4 oz additive and 2 quarts fluid
I bought a suction device from Murrays for about $15 (it looks like a small bicycle air pump) and my dad worked one end inside the differential moving it all around in and out while I pumped a billion times until we were sure all was out. Put 4 oz. additive in first, then using same method as trans with small tube squeeze in 41-43 oz. until it overflows when tube is removed. Let drain and plug.
Coolant - Zerex G5 from Autozone. This was a long but relatively easy process because I only wanted distilled water in my Viper.
Power steering - Mopar from dealer, need 1 quart. Turkey baster, sucked out reservoir, wiped clean, filled, started car moved steering wheel back and forth 20 times, repeated entire process two more times. Drove car, drained and refilled one more time the next day.
Brake fluid - Motul 600 RBF. If you race your car use Castrol RBF for $80 per bottle(not the stuff at Autozone). You can get it at a motorcycle place for $10 per bottle. I bought 3 bottles to be sure I had enough but was told 1-2 will do. You can't keep this stuff so I'll use the extra in other cars. I bought a pressure tank and ordered the adapter to fit the Viper yesterday from Miller.
Clutch fluid - Motul 600 RBF. Turkey baster, sucked out reservoir, wiped clean, filled, pressed clutch 20 times, repeated entire process two more times. Drove car, drained and refilled one more time the next day. Be extra careful with Motul since it will eat paint, put tons of towels over everything.
slaughterj
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Great info! Can anyone confirm this is the same for Gen2s? (Assuming so...) Are there any other fluids, or does this cover it? Looking to change all mine in a few thousand miles, want to be sure I don't miss anything.
Ron
Enthusiast
Pretty much same for GENII's, however I'd suggest reviewing a coolant change article I posted a few days ago as the coolant change part, done right, isn't all that easy. Doable certainly, but not a 10 minute job, especially if your changing coolant types as Craig suggests above. Your coolant choices are G5, traditional or Dexcool. Probably worth researching a bit and then deciding what's right for you.
On the brake fluid, make sure the Motul is a long term fluid. The Castrol racing fluid is not and must be removed before 18 months otherwise brake line corrosion could occur. I'd suggest using Valvoline synthetic DOT 3/4 for street use if the Motul is not suitable.
On the clutch, here I'd also suggest the same Valvoline fluid but bleeding it rather than the turkey baster method. I did the baster first then did later did the bleed and got a lot of dirty fluid out during the bleed.
On the brake fluid, make sure the Motul is a long term fluid. The Castrol racing fluid is not and must be removed before 18 months otherwise brake line corrosion could occur. I'd suggest using Valvoline synthetic DOT 3/4 for street use if the Motul is not suitable.
On the clutch, here I'd also suggest the same Valvoline fluid but bleeding it rather than the turkey baster method. I did the baster first then did later did the bleed and got a lot of dirty fluid out during the bleed.
