I'd also suggest swapping-checking the o-rings at the condenser on the driver's side where the link connects. Both my 200 GTS & '96 RT/10 needed those changed. Not a bad job either, if you remove the panel between the fascia and air filter box...
In both my '96 RT & 2000 GTS.....the worst A/C leak was where the line connects to the condenser. On the drivers side, the line comes down into the compressor. You can see it looking though the bumper. I replaced the o ring by removing the air filter box, and the panel in front.
The real problem is that you haven no idea how many times its been polished since new.. I'd only suggest working a lightlyas possible.
Agreed, on the finger nail test.
Frank...count your blessings that Interstates are hard to get near you. My Lincoln just had it's 2nd Interstate fail in less than 24 months, each. My local shop stopped selling them and switched to Deka.
The obvious reason? Besides how horrible it would look? No room. The gas tank is where your rear footwell would have to be.
That AMX as concept car that never made it to production.
Hi Frank....the batteries installed at the factory aren't available. The battery went in my 1996 when it was a couple years old and the only replacements from Chrysler were generic Mopar batteries. Nobody reproduces an exact replacement, either.
Those of us with early Vipers are stuck in a spot...
I looked up my print-out of this from when I did it on my '96 RT. These are the ones "ticked" on my instructions...
1. Power supplied with key-on (zero volts when key-off, 12V when key-on)
a. In a Gen 1, connect red wire to A21 14DB (dark blue)
2. Ground by PCM to complete the circuit...
Thanks Don....it was really simple to make...and cheap. 2x3s are very inexpensive.
If you use 2x12s (which won't give you as much height as my ramps) I'd suggest pressure treated....which aren't cheap.
I too have a mid-rise lift in my middle bay. I used to clear it with the Vipers with a pair of 2x12s. However, I made something up a bit better with a bunch of 2x3s. Since the picture was taken, I added some metal corners at the closer ends where the tires go up the ramps. This helps keep the...
These Vipers use a vacuum "switch" to control where the air condtioned air goes. If vacuum is gone, the "default" position is the defroster vents. (This also can happen momentarily if the gas pedal is pressed down very far in a higher gear.)
The A/C air coming from the defrost vents has NOTHING...
Most don't put the fasteners back in under the headlights and when it's hot....you get the gaps. There is really no (or very little) adjustment. In my opinion...it's important to put all fasteners back or you'll have gaps. If memory serves, we used a bolt and nut in the under the headlight...
Frank....don't know what you're looking for.....but....a local club mate of mine is looking to sell a '93 with 9000 miles. Under the fascia is scraped a bit...needs tires from dry rot...dash paint is spent (no surprise). I've never studied the car...but if you want to know more....PM me..
There is a mod done by Tom (the oil guy) for a simple timer that was an easy install. It allows the fuel pump to run longer when the key is first turned on...but maintains the safety feature of shutting down in the event of a problem. So...when you first start the car you just leave the key in...
It's true the fuel pump will only run for one second when the key is turned on. So...turn it on and off several times...then try to start the car. It may take 5 or more "on and offs" with the key...but you'll know if the problem is that pressure valve. (I call it a pressure valve...but that may...
Dom....the push fastener under the headlights is the one I replaced with a nit and bolt.
I don't have any pictures either, but I do remember many Vipers are Carlisle that had the "gap" where that fastener was missing. I mentioned it to my wife who remembered the ordeal that led to the nut/bolt...
Titlemine...they aren't Chrysler specific clips. I got a whole box made by W&E. Any good auto body supply shop should be able to get them for you...just take a sample with you.
When I pulled-replaced the fascia on my RT I was amazed at how many folks had written that there are clip you "don't need to put back". I think this explains why some Vipers get gaps around the headlights…especially the heat.
There are a couple very near or under the headlights that were tough...
Again....even if the compressor is disengaged at full throttle..it's not going to result in hot air immediately at the vents. The compressor cycles on and off all the time....the evaporator won't get hot immediately.
I can't imagine how the evaporator could immediately go from cold to hot when the gas pedal is depressed.
I can see how a vacuum leak could cause the blend door to move and perhaps direct more warm air into the mixture.
If the compressor clutch was somehow set to disengage...I can't see...
I never heard that the A/C shuts off when you apply the gas….
I do know that the HVAC will direct the conditioned air from the dash vents to the defroster vents if vacuum is lost. (I've only noticed this in 5th or 6th gears on the highway when the gas pedal is pressed far down) There's a check...
The OP shows a Gen 1 with a repaint, and aftermarket "upgrades" vs a clean Gen 2 apparently with no stories. In my book...you're far better off buying a better car upfront. In this case, the 01 is the better choice of the two.
That being said, I prefer the Gen 1 RT over the Gen 2. All a matter...
Yes, the battery is behind the drivers side wheel. Remove the wheel, a few bolts...a couple plastic fasteners and pull the inner fender lower portion. As said before....it is important that the battery terminals don't touch the frame rails.
Also...the battery isn't there for weight...
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