The gear you dyno is usually determined by the power that you pull. The difference between 3rd and 4th is minor but it is there, especially on turbo cars they love load. It does not have to be 1:1 but you want to be close.
Mustang dyno's are great, but there is an if. And that is they are...
Wait you built a Viper to handle 20-25 psi? How big of turbo's?
If it was my car I would go with some cold NGK's or Denso's to start with. Try NGK's with heat range of 8-10, or Denso's with 27-34(34's are like 11's). Check some threads after the pulls to see how much heat you are pulling...
Baz,
I don't see why not, but they both do the same thing. Not to mention that you are going to have a hard time finding someone in your neck of the woods with the equipment and the know how to re flash your computer.
The only after market unit out there is an AEM unit, that will do...
Numbers seem right on the mark, sounds like your car is running fine.
Your a/f is kinda irrelevant since it is the factory ECU you are talking about and a tail sniffer(which are about as accurate as my nose). The factory programing runs the cars with very weird and all over the place a/f...
Thats about what 2000+ make.
I am willing to bet your first 2 pulls were made when the car was well below operating temp, and the last 2 at normal temp.
rraulston,
Your RT 10 is a gen 1 car which means its very different than your friends GTS. In this case the important difference is power output, your car is rated at 415hp and 460 torque if I am not mistaken on the torque.
Majority of the Gen 1 viper out there pull 380 or so rwhp and 450...
My viper gets about 3k miles a year put on it and probably 4 oil changes for the same period. This has been going on since it was new, and I am seriously starting to wonder why.
Tom made a very informative post a while back stating the oil shelf life is about 5 years, and if that is the case...
One of two things happened here.
Either the car is not stock, and has some sort of motor work done to it since by your own admission you say all the bolt on parts are stock.
Or the dyno you attended is way out of calibration especialy for a mustang dyno.
Many on here will tell you to go spend your hard earned money on various products, and unfortunately all they are doing is making them selves feel better about throwing their money away on the same product.
Fact of the mater is that no after market viper intake of any sort for the Gen 2 has...
Tom,
Please tell me how much more pollution gets released into the air without cats versus with cats.
While you are at it tell us just how much pollution a typical oil refinery releases when compared to every single viper ever built combined.
Lets not even get into all the old "collector"...
When my car was being tuned on the dyno we tested all sorts of a/f ratio's and there was very little power gain between 11.9:1 and 13.0:1 we are talking 1-2 hp. The tuner and my self decided that the risk was no where near enough reward to have it lean.
Perhaps if you have a very good set of...
I seriously don't know why you all bother with insulation and cats. There is a very simple solution, REMOVE THE CATS. They are the source for most of the heat issues with vipers, and once out make the car a joy to drive instead of making you feel like a muffin ready to be removed from the...
I am aware of that, this was about our phone conversation where I told Armin(Camfab) that he should make 600rwhp with an AEM, along with all the other mods he did.
Damn I cant stand being right all the time.
Told you 600rwhp would be doable with an AEM and a few other minor tweaks. And you thought low 500's were realistic, heh.
What was the air/fuel on that pull? How much timing?
Dan, how the hell are you getting that much fuel from the factory...
I am not a huge fan of stock looking gen 3's, but with some "tastefull" mods you can make them looks a whole lot better than stock. They do have nice lines, they just need to be brought out.
First night of owning my Viper a cop pulled up to me at a red light and said "I need you to do a burn out". I had to have him repeat it several times to me, I was sure that my hearing was playing tricks on me.
Make it nice, not rice and it will sell.
You should also consider door panels, glove box doors, RT trunk lids, side sills, front/rear facia, etc...
If you make them light, you will probably sell a bunch of them.
Oh and almost forgot, an intake manifold.
RT is lighter than a GTS hands down, factory specs is 3380 for the RT and 3445 for GTS.
Far as 1/4 mile time goes its a toss up, unless we are talking both very good drivers in which case the RT would win because its lighter.
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