Edit: jesussssss. This thread is a decade friggen old
What exactly do you need? While I am in no way looking to dive back into general maintenance other than filling down-time, if you get into a bind, I can probably help... and I say probably not because I cant, but because I may not have the...
While I have seen it on Gen-2+, its not nearly as prevalent or obvious as with Gen-1 cars. What you describe is far more likely a fuel pressure regulator in the module bleeding off too rapidly and allowing boil-out, and taking time to refill the rails completely.
Check fuel pressure drop-off and boil-out with a gauge. If it tests OK, what you describe is also a symptom of an impending PCM failure. They start to become erratic when the module gets warm.
If signs point to that, DO NOT TAKE LIGHTLY. G1 modules fail catastrophically in most cases, and the...
OP,
If you couldnt tell from my off-beat humor above towards 'ole Mikey...
No problem to supply that. None. Literally have three of them in process sitting next to me on the shelf that are already scheduled for sealing.
And don't fall for the misinformed opinion of some sellers that you can...
Man, that must have been *really* hard for you to post. My favorite part is where you list me as the 3rd source, under duress... when you know damn well I am the only one on that list who can absolutely, 100%, for sure, supply that module... like all the others.
Its almost like you're still...
All it takes is once letting the voltage drop too far and sit over the winter, and the voltage drop-off during cranking is going to be completely different than it was before. Without a high-end controller or specialized logging equipment, you are never going to "see" what its actually doing at...
Battery and/or battery related connections.
Crank fueling is both voltage offset and temperature based, and base offset reference and fueling are also pressure based, both fuel and atmospheric. Cranking voltage changes as battery ages. Very few tuners have the ability or knowledge base to...
That looks like a Mopar Performance Diff w/ 3.55's, brand new. They were built by Dana Aftermarket. Everything there looks correct and new, just has been sitting for a LONG time.
Just pulled out of storage. This is a complete package removed from a damaged 2004 Viper SRT years ago, and has been in storage since. Everything is there as far as I can tell. This was an 800-1000 horsepower package originally, made by RSI in TX, and was their 800TT/1000TT base if I recall...
On topic/Off Topic...
I have a core that I was going to rebuild this fall and put on the shelf. Likely either a 307 or 355 Wavetrac G3/4 if anyone wanted to work an exchange. Just FYI.
Its a Hennessey file. Overwrite that junk and move on.
PCM should be in a 1996. That hardware is ONLY compatible with 96 firmware, and that is the least complete/most handicapped/slowest version.
Thanks for the Ref Dan!
To add to this though, it's important to consider the header design. If the O2 in the collector will be in a "near stock" location, it's best. If it ends up waaaay outboard, we have seen issues with closed loop oscillation, where the time delay of exhaust gas versus the...
It would be far more effective to mail you an SCT flash device, and e-mail you loadable tune files than it would be to sell you a complete tuning package and expect you to learn the software. No need to ship anything to the USA.
It would help if you posted what exactly you were trying to accomplish and why.
We sell, remanufacture, reprogram, and reflash all of the controllers, as well as sell the flashing software... but without knowing exactly what you are doing, I wouldnt venture a guess as to what you actually...
1. That key cylinder does not have a "crank" position. It is OFF, ACC, and RUN. The "Crank" position is the physical start button. Thats a lot of the confusion early on.
2. Your PCM appears to be off-bus. In the Run position, all of the gauge warning lights should be off after a second or so...
Lets all not forget to not underestimate how horrible Aldan shocks can be. Put on BC or similar, and then see how it feels. I am pretty sure over the years that I have seen more Aldan shock oil outside the shocks... than inside.
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