01 GTS radiator hose question

Buffdriver52

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I noticed a small leak on the floor and upon further inspection found that coolant is leaking from the bottom of the upper radiator hose where it attaches to the motor. I know what you’re thinking, easy fix. However, i am not sure what type of setup this is (see picture) on this hose where it attaches to the motor. I am used to seeing just a hose and 1 clamp. Not 3 clamps and some sort of valve. Does anyone know what this is? Can I just replace all that with a new hose and 1 clamp? Thanks!
 

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BoondocSaint

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Looks like a coolant bleed valve. Usually people add them to the lower radiator hose for radiators that lack that feature. My guess is someone added it in order to purge air while filling the coolant system. I don't see why you wouldn't be able to replace all of that with a standard upper hose. Someone else will have to chime in about that setup being a hack, good or bad, for these cars.
 

daveg

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Personally I would ditch that setup and put it back to factory, bleeding the system is not difficult. Your introducing additional failure points with that setup.

Just me though....
 
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luc

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Bad idea and very poor workmanship
If needed, you can bleed the system by disconnecting 1 hose at the heater valve located on top of the hvac box on the passenger side
 

GTS Dean

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A zero money, time only approach couldn't hurt to try. Crack the header tank cap, use an Allen wrench to loosen the radiator drain plug. Use a bucket underneath and let it drain for about 10 sec. Next, loosen the hose from the t-stat outlet and pull away. Inspect and clean the neck with emery cloth or a wire brush. Wipe the hose contact area, then reinstall with a good long bite on the neck and slide the clamp up just behind the neck barb and tighten. Refill, bleed, warm up and check for leaks again. Probably have to snug a little more. If it won't seal, get a new hose.
 
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lane_viper

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Alternative question, but could be relevant here.

Opinion on screw type clamps vs constant tension clamps (spring) clamps?

I bought new screw type when I replaced hoses, but ended up installing the tension clamps after a couple of weeks. I like the tension clamps better IMO.
 

luc

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Tension clamps are much better. As the name implies they provide a constant force. Screws type, due to the compression of the rubber material in the hose, need to be periodically checked/tightened
Also, most of them, due to the design, have a tendency to cut/damage the hose surface
 

InTheZoneAC

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Go with tension clamps so you're not cutting into the hose, find a nice set of silicone hoses, get rid of that bleed valve setup and go ahead and replace all your coolant with Evans waterless (pressure less) coolant. Your radiator, water pump, heater core and head gaskets will thank you.
 

GTS Dean

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I use both of these clamps. The constant torque are heavier and more bulky.


 

TEALLIFE

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Personally I would ditch that setup and put it back to factory, bleeding the system is not difficult. Your introducing additional failure points with that setup.

Just me though....
This. Just get some silicone hoses and replace it all.

I've never had an issue with bleeding by filling as much as possible through the upper radiator hose into the block.
 

efnfast

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I wouldn't do silicone hoses. They permeate water like 500x more than regular EPDM rubber hoses. Pain in the ******* ass. Today's hoses are not like those from 1975 - they have service lives of 20+ years ... good enough (because even silicone has a service life ... basically every 2 times you replace regular EPDM you need to replace silicone once)

And make sure you use fully lined hose clamps so you don't bite into the hose, I like the Breeze model for the regular screw kind

Constant torque clamps are good too, but I like the above because you have to do 2 or 3 heat cycles to bleed the system fully anyways so I don't mind the re-tightening cycle. After I've re-tightened 2-3 times I've never had to re-tighten down the road
 

TEALLIFE

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I wouldn't do silicone hoses. They permeate water like 500x more than regular EPDM rubber hoses. Pain in the ******* ass. Today's hoses are not like those from 1975 - they have service lives of 20+ years ... good enough (because even silicone has a service life ... basically every 2 times you replace regular EPDM you need to replace silicone once)

And make sure you use fully lined hose clamps so you don't bite into the hose, I like the Breeze model for the regular screw kind

Constant torque clamps are good too, but I like the above because you have to do 2 or 3 heat cycles to bleed the system fully anyways so I don't mind the re-tightening cycle. After I've re-tightened 2-3 times I've never had to re-tighten down the road
I've never had a problem with silicone hoses. Yes regular hoses will do just fine as well.

I've had silicone hoses on a car for 10+ years now without issue.
 

luc

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I've never had a problem with silicone hoses. Yes regular hoses will do just fine as well.

I've had silicone hoses on a car for 10+ years now without issue.
If I’m correct factory or aftermarket rubber hoses have not been available for years and therefore people get silicone
 

efnfast

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If I’m correct factory or aftermarket rubber hoses have not been available for years and therefore people get silicone

RSI has a hard-pipe kit to replace the upper and lower rad hoses.

For the smaller heater and coolant tank hoses you're forced to go with silicone ones
 

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