1993 RT/10 Idle Question

[weeten]

hey guys...i have been noticing that my idle is a little rough...i am wondering if it is normal for the car to be idling at about 400-450 rpm, after warmed up...when i first fire it up it sits around 1000 rpm and then eventually heads down to the range noted above...

does this sound normal? it seems to be driving fine and there is no issues.

 

[viper067]

yes, that range sounds normal. Shouldn't be rough though.

 

[JonB]

hey guys...i have been noticing that my idle is a little rough...i am wondering if it is normal for the car to be idling at about 400-450 rpm, after warmed up...when i first fire it up it sits around 1000 rpm and then eventually heads down to the range noted above...

does this sound normal? it seems to be driving fine and there is no issues.

Dont misread the tach, I think the first mark is 250 or 500 RPM, not zero. {My G1 is stored}

Plugs and Wires are the usual suspect in this issue....you would be amazed at how much better an older Viper accelerates and idles with fresh plugs and wires every 20K miles or so. The big V10 and heavy OE Flywheel conceals minor ignition faults, you may have an issue and not know it.

You said no driving issues, but if it 'bucks' at parking-lot-speeds, crusing on idle, that is casued bu throttle-body-cable synchronization issue

 

[weeten]

hey thanks for the replies...you mentioned 'bucks', does that mean sort of hesitates and occasionally jerks? if so then yes, it does that as well sometimes, depends on how i a with the throttle...

can you recommend or suggest a set of wires and plugs that i could grab? also the throttle-body-cable synchronization issues, how is that resolved?

thanks in advance for the help.

 

[jdeft1]

The throttle synch. procedure is a simple task and may help. Basically, with the car off, you have a friend sit in it and push the pedal down to the floor. Each cable has a catch mechanism that requires you to release/reset to lock it onto the cable. If you don't have a manual I suggest you buy one. I'm pretty sure you can find one for around $35. As for wires, a call to one of the parts venders here will set you up with a set I'm sure.

Enjoy

 

[badasp2]

jon '''''' what do u mean by "" v10 and oe flywheel have ignition problems ????? just curious ???????

 

[JonB]

jon '''''' what do u mean by "" v10 and oe flywheel have ignition problems ????? just curious ???????

That is not what I said! Here is a cut and paste: The big V10 and heavy OE Flywheel conceals minor ignition faults, you may have an issue and not know it.

Better edit: The big V10 and heavy OE Flywheel can conceal minor ignition faults. You may have an issue and not know it.

Longer version: As an owner gets used to the car, you dont even notice the real loss of HP due to aging, cross-talking wires and degrading plugs. I actually had a customer who added plugs and wires in a Gen 1 and gained 52HP on the dyno, that he did not even know had trickled away over a few years.

 

[Roy]

That is not what I said! Here is a cut and paste: The big V10 and heavy OE Flywheel conceals minor ignition faults, you may have an issue and not know it.

Better edit: The big V10 and heavy OE Flywheel can conceal minor ignition faults. You may have an issue and not know it.

Longer version: As an owner gets used to the car, you dont even notice the real loss of HP due to aging, cross-talking wires and degrading plugs. I actually had a customer who added plugs and wires in a Gen 1 and gained 52HP on the dyno, that he did not even know had trickled away over a few years.

52 horses!! I have my original wires still in there and am going to change them this month, together with smooth tubes, exhaust, plugs etcetera, should be a nice gain than...Very curious if it makes a feelable difference.

 

[JonB]

52 horses!! I have my original wires still in there and am going to change them this month, together with smooth tubes, exhaust, plugs etcetera, should be a nice gain than...Very curious if it makes a feelable difference.

Make sure the etcetera includes HiFlow air filters. If you cannot feel those mods, you must be one of the Dead End Kids!

 

[Roy]

Yep k&n's!

 

[jdeft1]

The throttle synch. procedure is a simple task and may help. Basically, with the car off, you have a friend sit in it and push the pedal down to the floor. Each cable has a catch mechanism that requires you to release/reset to lock it onto the cable. If you don't have a manual I suggest you buy one. I'm pretty sure you can find one for around $35. As for wires, a call to one of the parts venders here will set you up with a set I'm sure.

Enjoy

Here's a modified pic of the the synch procedure:

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[BC Viper]

jsquared - my '95 Viper idles at about 500 RPM when warmed up... great pic of the synch procedure, jdeft1. Thanks!

 

[weeten]

thanks for all the info and the pic...yeah i took her out for a ride today, and realized that technically, that just above the 0 mark on the RPM meter, is 500 rpm, so my car is idling at about 650-750 rpm...she ran fine today, so what i will do is just order new sparks and wires, and get an oil change, and all the fluids flushed...weather permitting that is

 

[jdeft1]

Generally, the throttle synch procedure is only needed after a throttle body or intake removal (usually).

But...

These are old cars now and the cables can stretch a bit etc...??


I'd advise any newer gen 1 owner to swap wires and plugs ASAP after purchase! I'd also do a full oil/coolant/brake/clutch/diff. fluid change. These cars spend alot of time in garages but fresh fluids will add life (and enjoyment) to your car.

 

[jdeft1]

Sorry, here it is again..

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