80/100 watt light upgrade

[Tim]

On my 94 RT10, can we safely upgrade the factory lights to the aftermarket 80/100 watts lights and not melt any wires?

In my 2004 1 Ton Cummins I have tried the new PIAA's to find that they are 3 times the money and burn out in 3 months. The lights do throw a whiter/bright light with very little increase in distance or width. In my mind these were a waste of time and money. I have now put in the Cummins the 9007 80/100watt (factory was 55/65 watt) for only $12.00 cdn each. The light is not as white but does throw the beam 15 to 20% further in distance and a little wider into the ditch. So far no codes thrown or wires melted.

Thanks

Tim

 

[Ulysses]

If not wired differently than OE, you could do some damage. Heck, Im not sure, but if 80/100 throws out a lot of heat, you might even melt the head light enclosure.

 

[Warren S]

Tim,

I think Ulysses brought up an excellent point. In addressing if it is safe to upgrade to higher wattage: Do you really want to take the chance of frying the wires, headlight housing and pay the Viper tax to replace them? Them 80/100W bulbs consume lots of current and produce a whole lot of heat. I believe all model year Vipers have separate high and low beam bulbs (9005/9006) so you will also have to replace all four bulbs, not just two as on your Cummins (9007). Imagine all four bulbs on creating all that heat when you switch to high beams.

If you do enough night slitherin to justify getting brighter lights (higher lumen and kelvin rating) and willing to pay the extra cost, then I would check out the HID or Xenon conversion kits and get bulbs around 4300K. As like the new luxo-cars, this would only cover the low beams, high beams would be your original halogens. Contrary to popular belief, HID’s run much cooler than halogens, consume less current (35W vs. 55W stock), your alternator wouldn’t have to struggle so hard, and should last the life of the vehicle. Do a search. The conversion kits which consists of Xenon gas-filled bulbs (no filament inside), ballasts/ignitors and wiring are true plug-and-play. In case if you ever sell the car, you can just remove and install it on another car. Yes, the conversion kits are expensive, there are retailers that are selling them for nearly $500, but I have also seen them recently on eBay "buy it now" price for as low as $300.

I recall a previous HID discussion recently >>>Click here

Sorry to hijack this thread about HID lights, but I thought this may be a good alternative to consider than getting higher wattage halogens that may melt your wires and housing. Hope this helps.

 

[GTS Bruce]

I use 80/100W in my ram truck.Have had them for several years.No problems.Not willing to risk it in the Viper. Bruce

 

[Randy]

I agree with Bruce - I put a 80/110W (or whatever) set in my old 95 RT, and didn't notice much difference, if any. So, I pulled them back out due to the risk, and later put in an HID system, where I notice a *significant* difference (and the HID system is only 35 watts per bulb, excluding start-up current draw).

Of course, an HID system is a big jump in price over a pair of $20 bulbs. As I didn't notice any difference in light with the higher-wattage bulbs (it could be just that I had crappy-manufacturer bulbs), I didn't think the potential risk was worth it. However, you are probably safe in trying them to see if yours are any better than mine - doing it for a short period won't evidently hurt your wiring. Nor do I think your wiring is the main risk spot - the worry is also that you damage your light switch (if you have a 1st gen car; as the dash light switch handles all of the headlight power in a 1st gen car- no relay. I think there is a relay in line with my 2nd gen car's switch, but I've not looked at the shop manual to be sure).

I did indeed have to replace my headlight switch as well as splicing a new headlight switch connector on my wiring harness, as it melted one day (way AFTER I'd gotten rid of the higher-power bulbs, and before I put on the HID system).

Just rambling...