troyrt10
Enthusiast
How hard was it to do the Fuel Cap. Just unbolt and rebolt?
96 Viper GTS Venom 550 - making more mods
- Thread starter GTSjbud
- Start date
GTSjbud
Viper Owner
I had heard that the MGW gas caps were a little difficult to install. Even the instructions from MGW suggest that it is challenging to get the rubber grommet onto the cap and then mounted onto the filler neck. Honestly this is something I was putting off doing.
In the end it was very easy! I didn't follow the MGW directions point for point and did a couple of things differently and it worked like a gem!!
Here are my steps:
- remove old gas cap (easy as pie)
- remove rubber grommet from filler neck by simply slipping it off
- lube rubber grommet with Zaino (supplied with new gas cap) and insert into new gas cap by rolling the edges. This is done on your work bench.
- lube rubber grommet (area that will but up against filler tube) with Zaino
- while holding the new gas cap with the sealing gasket, hold the filer tube out from the car and simply roll the gas cap assembly onto the filler tube.
- insert the new bolts (supplied with the cap) through the mounting holes and through the sealing gasket. The sealing gasket will hold the bolts in place. Make sure to push all four bolts through the sealing gasket and then align them for install.
- align bolts with holes and fasten...your done
GTSjbud
Viper Owner
One thing I noticed when I drove the Viper is the intense heat generated by the exaust. The cabin of the car turned into an oven. 
Many Vipers have caught on fire because of the heat generated in the side sill area.
In order to reduce the heat and possibility of fire my solution is to install heat barrier to the sill areas and wrap the exhaust with heat insulation.
I removed all of the weld spatter from the side sill area to create a smooth surface so the heat barrier would bond. I then primed and painted the sill area. Next I installed Thermo Tec's Adhesive Back Aluminized Heat Barrier rated up to 2000°F.
Many Vipers have caught on fire because of the heat generated in the side sill area.In order to reduce the heat and possibility of fire my solution is to install heat barrier to the sill areas and wrap the exhaust with heat insulation.
I removed all of the weld spatter from the side sill area to create a smooth surface so the heat barrier would bond. I then primed and painted the sill area. Next I installed Thermo Tec's Adhesive Back Aluminized Heat Barrier rated up to 2000°F.
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GTSjbud
Viper Owner
I want to say that due to all the awesome feedback this thread is really giving me energies to stay focused on the project and take more pictures. 
I'm lovin' it!
I'm lovin' it!
If you're going to heat-proof the cabin I'd also do the interior particularly the tunnel area. A LOT of heat comes up through the tunnel. The belly pan protecting the transmission seems to force hot engine air up through the shifter/tunnel area. This winter I'm going to remove my seats & carpet and lay down some heat barrier but I'm also going to insulate the tunnel area above the transmission with a heat shield as well. Thermo-tec has a heat shield made for tunnels. Since you have your car up on jack now may be a good time to look into this. By the way, LOVE the car. You're doing an amazing and inspiring job. Keep the pics coming!
- Tony
- Tony
troyrt10
Enthusiast
Thanks for the tips!
GTSjbud
Viper Owner
Thanks for the excellent tip.
I was just about to install Dynmat in the interior. Would Dynmat act as a heat barrier? Or should I purchase a heat barrier product from Thermo-Tec and install it on the transmission tunnel and then install Dynamat over top?Cheers
Jason
Jason, I'm not familiar with Dynamat for heat insulation but it looks like they have products for this purposed based on their website. A VCA member steered me to SecondSkinAudio . Their Damplifier product seems to be made for heat. I was going to install it on the firewall area and floor board under the existing insulation under my carpet and around the tunnel inside the cockpit. Above the transmission, I was going to install this tunnel shield from Design Engineering. I figure that by insulating inside/out this would create a tight barrier and eliminate most, if not all, of the radiant cabin heat I feel from the floor/tunnel area. I installed hi-flow cats last year and they great reduced side sill heat for me. This will be my next experiment.
Are you going to run cats? I used Thermo-Tec to insulate my 02 sensor wires, and made some header heat shields. I'd be really curious to see how well it holds up to cats in a confined area? I think you should pull the side sills after a couple of thousand miles to see how they hold up.
GTSjbud
Viper Owner
I have planned on installing cats. I have purchased a pair of Random Tech. 3" Metal Honeycomb cats from JonB. I am planning on purchasing exhaust blanket/wrap from Sean at Roe Racing. This should help keep all the heat contained in the system. The heat barrier is added protection.
GTSjbud
Viper Owner
Hey ViperTony, those are some good ideas. I will probably purchase some additional heat barrier and install on the tranny tunnel. I will then install Dynamat over top of the heat barrier. I really appreciate your advice!
GTSjbud
Viper Owner
ENGINE MOD'S - UPDATE 
My initial plan was to modify my NA Gen. II engine to attain appx. 700 HP/TQ at the rear wheels. But I have since changed my mind after reviewing all the information posted by VCA members. I have decided to SUPERCHARGE my Viper.
I have come to the conclusion that it is expensive to get big power out of the NA V10 (heads, stroker kit, intake). It appears that one of the least expensive routes is to supercharge the engine. By supercharging the engine I will attain the power numbers that I want...and more.
The supercharger that I am planning on installing is a Paxton. Joe Donovan (PBJ) has advised me to purchase the "Tuner" kit from Paxton and he will supply the rest. PBJ will be advising me very soon with all the mods required. I really look forward to hearing from him.
I will be sending my Venom 550 heads to Greg Good to review and determine what is required to make them flow the best.
I want to thank all of the VCA members who provided me with information and advice for my engine build!
Stay tuned!
My initial plan was to modify my NA Gen. II engine to attain appx. 700 HP/TQ at the rear wheels. But I have since changed my mind after reviewing all the information posted by VCA members. I have decided to SUPERCHARGE my Viper.
I have come to the conclusion that it is expensive to get big power out of the NA V10 (heads, stroker kit, intake). It appears that one of the least expensive routes is to supercharge the engine. By supercharging the engine I will attain the power numbers that I want...and more.
The supercharger that I am planning on installing is a Paxton. Joe Donovan (PBJ) has advised me to purchase the "Tuner" kit from Paxton and he will supply the rest. PBJ will be advising me very soon with all the mods required. I really look forward to hearing from him.
I will be sending my Venom 550 heads to Greg Good to review and determine what is required to make them flow the best.
I want to thank all of the VCA members who provided me with information and advice for my engine build!
Stay tuned!
DSG2003SVT
Enthusiast
Well, I was curious to see how the NA power came, but as you said, money talks. It's expensive to get that kind of power without the help of SC or turbo(s). It's going to be an awesome Viper either way. Good luck with everything!
GTSjbud
Viper Owner
I found that the big secret to NA power is Stryker heads, big cam, intake that flows better and stroker kit to name a few.
DSG2003SVT
Enthusiast
Did you ever find an aftermarket intake that you thought would do the trick for NA, or did you decide that an extrude honed OEM one would be OK?
GTSjbud
Viper Owner
I never really investigated aftermarket intakes thoroughly. I was mostly concentrating on the big power increases for the NA engine which are the heads, stroke, bore and cam. However, the intake is also very important. Some of the choices for aftermarket intakes are; Hogans and Mitech.
DSG2003SVT
Enthusiast
I can't find anything on Mitech, but the Hogan's intakes look really good.
GTSjbud
Viper Owner
DSG2003SVT
Enthusiast
Website must be down. But thanks for the info
GTSjbud
Viper Owner
Pic of dash with instrument gauges, stereo and steering wheel removed. I have left the passanger air bag intact as I didn't want any mishaps...BANG! 
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Pic of dash with instrument gauges, stereo and steering wheel removed. I have left the passanger air bag intact as I didn't want any mishaps...BANG!
LOL...I can relate. although a bit off topic, my BMW had an airbag recall two years ago...the problem? The airbag can accidentally deploy when turing the ignition key into the ON position. For two weeks, I would start my car from the back of the seat.
Definitely don't want an airbag going off in your face. Keep the pics/progress updates coming. You've inspired me to tear out my interior.GTSjbud
Viper Owner
In an attempt to reduce cabin temperatures due to engine and exhaust heat I installed 2000°F Heat Barrier on the transmission tunnel and next to the door openings.
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LS6 Molester
Viper Owner
i wish i had the know how you do. your car is going to be awesome!!
GTSjbud
Viper Owner
When I was driving my Viper I noticed how difficult it was to read the speedometer. There are so many numbers on the gauge that my eyes started to criss cross. I'm considering sending all the gauges to Classic Instruments and having a custom gauge faces made. I want the gauges to look more modern and less congested. Below are pics of the original Viper gauges.
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GTSjbud
Viper Owner
LOL...I can relate. although a bit off topic, my BMW had an airbag recall two years ago...the problem? The airbag can accidentally deploy when turing the ignition key into the ON position. For two weeks, I would start my car from the back of the seat.
I look forward to seeing pics of your interior ripped out
Just make sure to disconnect the battery...don't want any mishaps BANG 
GTSjbud
Viper Owner
I've been wrenchin' on cars all my life and wasn't a bit concerned about ripping the Viper apart. The Viper engine compartment is very simple and easy to define all the parts, etc. Would I work on or try to modify my wife's 2006 Nissan Altima....NO WAY!!
To me the engine compartments are very congested and I wouldn't have the slightest clue on what is what. 
I am not a mechanic by trade but instead a perfectionist. I've learnt that the trick to working on any project is to take your time and not rush. I've tried to rush some of my previous projects and it simply takes all the fun out of it and thats when mistakes are made. Don't forget to take many, many pictures. Thank god for digital cameras! Another must is a Viper Service Manual. The information in the service manual is unbeleivable!! The descriptions and pictures make taking things apart and putting them back together so much easier.
It also helps being a member of the VCA!! I've spoken with many knowledgeable members and that have provided me with excellent advice and direction.
I look forward to meeting these members in person some day.VIPER BAZ UK
Enthusiast
WOW!!!!! Great read...
Keep up the AWSOME work...
Some of the things you have done i have also done on my 02 RT/10..
How did you get the rivnuts in by the doors to hold the sills in place???
I also drilled alot of the holes out where sheet metal screws where and installed rivnuts like the trim in front of the door and the heater box...
Keep up the AWSOME work...
Some of the things you have done i have also done on my 02 RT/10..
How did you get the rivnuts in by the doors to hold the sills in place???
I also drilled alot of the holes out where sheet metal screws where and installed rivnuts like the trim in front of the door and the heater box...
GTSjbud
Viper Owner
GTSjbud
Viper Owner
Hey BAZ! Happy to hear that you are enjoying the build. Stay tuned for more stuff...
I will try to explain what type of fasteners I will be using throughout the car. I really enjoy the details of a build and to me fasteners are one of them.
Body Panel to Inside of Door
I am not a fan of the black pop rivit fasteners that were used on that were used to hold the two panels together. Polishing wax typically gets caught on the rivet, dries and then turns white. The white wax residue shows up like a sore thumb. I ground the pop rivits out very carefully. I will be inserting rivnuts and then use stainless steel button head allen wrench fasteners. In order to insert the rivnuts behind the body panel, I will gently move aside the panel and then insert the rivnut. The only hole that I cannot insert a rivnut is the uppermost one, closest to the gas cap. For this I will reach in behind and spin on a nut. TA DA
Pics to come when I reach this point. Front/Rear Facia (Underside) to Frame
Stainless steel button head allen wrench will be used.
Inside Wheel Wells
Ground pop rivits out very carefully. Stainless steel button head allen wrench fasteners will be used.
Exhaust Rocker Panel Covers to Side Sill
Installed rivnuts as per the 'how to' thread. Stainless steel button head allen wrench fasteners will be used.
***********************************************************************************
I'll explain the what type of stainless steel fasteners that I am using on the engine when I get to that point.
Hope I have answered some of your questions...
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