Adjusting Roller Rockers Made Easy

[Jack B]

I just had some head work done and before I adjusted the rockers I looked at making the process a bit easier. I have adjusted rockers multiple times and it has never been easy. Everyone has had to come back more than one time to get it right. The key is to manually rotate the engine by hand, via the harmonic balancer bolt head. Using the following sequence you only have to rotate the crank two revolutions. This method also assures that the lifters are on the base circle. Taking my time it took me 30 minutes to adjust the rockers, plus, I did not have to come back and adjust them a second time. There is also no need to warm the engine.

One of the keys to proper geometry is the correct pushrod length. With the T&D's you must measure/size the pushrod with the rocker adjusting nut one turn down. You then turn/preload the adjuster down one further turn, that is ideal. Each full turn of the adjuster equals .050".

 

[DAMN YANKEE]

Jack,

Great job!

1. One should remove all spark plugs prior, correct?
2. Where do you special order the hex head socket?
3. Repace the valve cover gasket each and every time?

Thanks, DD

Very useful, many thanks.

Straight to the "Illustrated Guides" in my opinion....

 

[Jack B]

Jack,

Great job!

1. One should remove all spark plugs prior, correct?
2. Where do you special order the hex head socket?
3. Repace the valve cover gasket each and every time?

Thanks, DD

Very useful, many thanks.

Straight to the "Illustrated Guides" in my opinion....

1. All the plugs are out
2. YOu can you the 12 point, but, the hex is better, Snap-on should be a good source.
3. I have used the same valve cover gaskets multiple times - it is a durable gasket

One thing i forgot was the tool to find TDC came from Eastwood (mail order)

 

[Smog Dog]

Very good info. If using Harland Sharp rockers, one full turn on the adjuster is .040 instead of .050 for the TDs. The difference probably being the thread pitch. 24 for the HS--likely 20 for the TD. Sean Roe recommends 1.5 turns in for the HS set up. ...almost 2000 miles so far and all is well.

Steve

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

Woops---that would be me above from the Smog Dog computer.. Road trip

Steve

 

[DAMN YANKEE]

jack,

Is this the tool you are using? In the 6" o 10"?

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=11415&itemType=PRODUCT

 

[Simms]

Great info Jack.

 

[Jack B]

jack,

Is this the tool you are using? In the 6" o 10"?

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=11415&itemType=PRODUCT

The 6" tool, it is a well known fact that viper owner cannot handle the 10" tool. It is the 6" gauge, it works great.

 

[DAMN YANKEE]

going to add a couple of details from Jack..

Quote:
Originally Posted by DAMN YANKEE
Jack,

Its only a matter of time before I have to attend to the H-S Rollers that were installed last fall by Chuck. I want to be able to follow your direction but there are parts of this operation that I do not understand. I fully understand finding top dead center by cylinder, but I'm not clear on what the gauging should be. In the old days, I would work a gauge under and adjust accordingly. With a Viper I know there is "pre-loading" etc...but I'm just not clear on it.

If I can get a really good idea, I would be happy to do the step-by-step photo work to show exactly what to do here, from takng the valve covers off through putting them back on.

Here is a little direction:

1. We start by assuming the pushrods are the correct length.

2. When you are on TDC four valves can be adjusted.

3. When at TDC run the adjuster all the way UP till it bottoms out. Now start turning it back down till it just touches the push rod.You want to take up all play, but, you don't want it putting pressure on the pushrod. It is better to have a few thousands play than to have it pressing on the pushrod.

4. Make a mental note, if the pushrod is the perfect length, the adjuster will touch the pushrod at exactly one turn. Due to variations in the valve seat and rocker, it will vary from one full turn. If all of them vary dramatically, the pushrods are the wrong lengths. I would worry if the adjuster hits the pushrods at less than 1/2 turn or greater than 1-1/2 turn.

5. Once you find the position where the adjuster just touches the pushrod you adjust it down one full turn and that is it.
__________________
Jack B

10.2 @140 (1.7 sec 60')
1.45 (best 60')

Quote:
Originally Posted by DAMN YANKEE
5. Once you find the position where the adjuster just touches the pushrod you adjust it down one full turn and that is it.

Jack, Many thanks. Got it now. When you make the statement above are we tightening against the pushrod one full turn? In other words, fr that final one full turn are we pressing on the puchrod or backing it off?

Thanks

1. The adjuster is all the way up or bottomed out against the rocker.

2. If the rods are the correct length when you bring the adjuster down (from full up) it should take one full turn to mate with the rod. You want to barely take out the play, maintain a few thousands play.

3. The next step is to tighten one full turn, which means you have preloaded the rod one turn or .050".

The way to think about it is that the sweet spot on the adjuster is two turns down form full up. I don't think you want to be out of the 1.5 to 2.5 turn (down) range. I am sure many cars have been run out ofthat range, but, you start to restrict oil and lose mechanical strength.

good luck
__________________
Jack B

10.2 @140 (1.7 sec 60')
1.45 (best 60')

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

Dan,

You have HS rockers. Maybe yours were the old design where one turn is .050. The ones I just got a month or two ago are .040 per turn. That info is right from HS. I called them. They changed the adjusters from a 20 pitch adjuster to a 24. I went 1.5 turns in per Sean which puts me at .060 of pre load. Almost 3,000 miles the last 3 weeks and all is well. I don't want to debate the turn or turn and a half. Jack's done a lot more of this than me. ....but that's what I did based on Sean's input. BTW Sean wrote the original HS instruction sheet for HS.

Steve

 

[Jack B]

Dan,

You have HS rockers. Maybe yours were the old design where one turn is .050. The ones I just got a month or two ago are .040 per turn. That info is right from HS. I called them. They changed the adjusters from a 20 pitch adjuster to a 24. I went 1.5 turns in per Sean which puts me at .060 of pre load. Almost 3,000 miles the last 3 weeks and all is well. I don't want to debate the turn or turn and a half. Jack's done a lot more of this than me. ....but that's what I did based on Sean's input. BTW Sean wrote the original HS instruction sheet for HS.

Steve

The details that are appended to my post are for T&D's. The scheme to find TDC and adjust the valves will work for any aftermarket rocker. The details were just offered within a PM to answer questions and were not meant to be universal. The key is that the valve adjusting scheme drastically simplies the process. Once you understand the process it becomes virtually bullet-proof.

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

I understand Jack. It is great info. I will use it in the future for checking stuff. It's already printed up. It just kind of sounded like Dan was using the .050 as the measurement to go by on his HS rockers. I'm guessing 1 turn at .040 might be a little light, especially as I would guess they will loosen a little as they seat in........but I'm new to this myself.

Steve

 

[DAMN YANKEE]

Got it all and am thankful!

Steve, Jack do you have the spec/directions that came with your set? Could we get a good a good scan? I am hoping to get this EXCELLENT thread squared away for the Illustrateds.

If photos arent your thing, just scan them and send me he files via email (PM Me),

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

Dan,

I could scan what came with them, but they are a little misleading as to how far in the adjuster should be to start. Plus..the HS instructions say to go to TDC for each piston. Of course that would be the intake stroke. Jack's instructions simplify this. You don't really need a tool. I just used a marked tyrap (and starter button) to get to TDC. You can also easily see where the valves are closed on both strokes with the intake stroke being of longer duration for both valves being closed. I was also told that it doesn't need to be 'exact' There are some degrees to play with there. To set zero lash, one thing that turned me around and was wrong(for me anyway) was to keep twisting the PR until the adjuster sat on it and it didn't want to twist. I discovered that you can have the lifter a little pre-loaded and still twist the rod. This caused great variation in adjustment as I was turning to far in. I knew it couldn't be right. A mechanic friend steered me to the following: As stated above....back the adjuster all the way out and start to tighten it down, rocking the rocker with your fingers, until it there is no more play between the rocker and the PR. ....then go in your turn or 1.5 turns. Very simple operation.....once you get it figured out.

Steve

 

[Brian GTS]

Yes, just to confirm for the illustrated upgrades for HS rockers:

First, to help find TDC, I used a thin plastic tube I inserted into the spark plug hole on the intake stroke. I've heard some people also use a drinking straw or coat hanger. I used a remote starter to get the piston to the intake stroke. Then, I manually turned the crank and watched the tube raise until it stopped moving. Then, I marked the tube with tape for a reference point (for use on other pistons). I then double-checked my mark by finding TDC on the next cycle.

To install the rocker, I inserted my rod. Then, I backed the adjust all the way out on the HS rocker and then began tightening. My 2001 with 7.5 rods took 1.5 turns until there was no more play between the adjuster and pushrod. Does that sound right?

Then, as per the instructions, I tightened an additional 1.5 turns. There were about 2 threads sticking out above the locking nut on the HS rocker when I was finished.

The rockers do seem somewhat noisier than stock. Is that normal?

Brian

 

[Jack B]

Got it all and am thankful!

Steve, Jack do you have the spec/directions that came with your set? Could we get a good a good scan? I am hoping to get this EXCELLENT thread squared away for the Illustrateds.

If photos arent your thing, just scan them and send me he files via email (PM Me),

Mine is toooo greasy/dirty, it is almost laughable. I looked on their website and couldn't find the instructions.

 

[99 R/T 10]

Here are the instructions. Also if you need some Mopar 1.7 RR's, PM me.

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[DAMN YANKEE]

Many thanks! Just PMed you for the full files, please, so I can set them up as larger images.

Anybody got the HS setup pages they could scan and forward on to me too?

 

[Y2K5SRT]

Straight to the "Illustrated Guides" in my opinion....

All taken care of.