After 20 Years I Finally Got One

DGK

Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 24, 2009
Posts
4
Reaction score
8
Hey all,

Long time lurker (joined in 09 ) but I finally became an owner a few months ago. Its crazy owning my childhood dream but so satisfying.
Obviously I love the car but theres nothing like some old school forum horror stories to really bring one back down to earth.
Anyways, I figured I show off my car a bit and introduce myself in hopes we can keep this place alive (facebook groups annoy me).
If any long time owners have any sage advice for keeping this thing going for the long haul I’d love to read it.
I was a BMW tech for several years before moving into aerospace so I’m fairly competent when it comes to mechanical things, lets get technical!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5218.jpeg
    IMG_5218.jpeg
    148.8 KB · Views: 44
  • IMG_5252.jpeg
    IMG_5252.jpeg
    158.5 KB · Views: 35
  • IMG_5099.jpeg
    IMG_5099.jpeg
    222.2 KB · Views: 32
  • IMG_5097.jpeg
    IMG_5097.jpeg
    192.9 KB · Views: 36
  • IMG_4975.jpeg
    IMG_4975.jpeg
    207.3 KB · Views: 42

MoparMap

VCA National President
VCA Officer
Joined
Jan 7, 2013
Posts
2,483
Reaction score
301
Location
Kansas
Generally speaking, Vipers are about as easy as it gets in the "exotic" car world as far as maintenance and durability. I guess I've never actually had anything else myself, but from everything I've read and heard, the Viper is super easy to deal with. I've done all sorts of work on my car over the years between repairs for my own dumb mistakes to general maintenance and upgrades. The car is put together pretty simply and most things are readily accessible with standard hardware to remove them. I've had the entire dash structure out of my car in the past dealing with a blend door issue on my A/C (that I need to do again one of these days since I never really fixed it). Sure it was involved, but ultimately I think it's 8 bolts or something that hold the dash in and a couple of big electrical connectors and it came out. I've got 135000+ miles on my car now and have barely even touched the suspension wear parts. Only thing I've replaced to date is the shocks, but that was partially because I just wanted to upgrade. All the bushings and bearings and stock and still in great shape. They used really good materials and coatings, so even after all those miles (many of them in all sorts of weather), there's hardly a speck of rust anywhere on the chassis that I can see.

There are a couple of weak points, but guessing you've probably seen that over your years here already. Oil cooler lines and the power steering line/fitting tend to be the most prevalent for that generation, both pretty easily addressed. You could get into oil issues if you track it, but if it's just a street car I doubt you'd ever run into any kind of problem. Shocks seem to be hit and miss lately as well. I'm seeing more and more threads about them having poor ride quality, but then again the cars aren't getting any younger. I think the best advice has always been just to make sure you drive it and keep it moving. Sitting is ******* any car and basic maintenance goes a long way on all cars. Keep the fluids fresh and everything exercised and you should have many years of enjoyment in front of you. Welcome to ownership!
 

EastCoastSRT10

Enthusiast
Venom Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2024
Posts
13
Reaction score
3
Location
Maryland
The wiper seals seem to be degrading on the stock shocks more and more causing the fluid to bleed out from what I can see.

I would double check the lines and hoses for routing. These cars were hand built so they are all a little different. My power steering return line was rubbed through by the steering column for instance.
 

ArcherTX

Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 3, 2023
Posts
1
Reaction score
1
Location
Dallas, Texas
Absolutely congratulations! Can attest to the power steering line, absolutely needs to be replaced, I believe most common cause of fires (keep an extinguisher handy anyways!). Have an 04 same gen and color - excellent choice :beer: - Power steering line and pump exploded at 20k miles for me, but was 20 years old when it went. If you do happen to be in Florida I cannot recommend DLM - Doug Levin Motorsports enough if you ever need any serious work done or power add. Beating a dead horse to a tech here, but some people here aren't as big of sticklers as I am for tires, but check the dates! #1 cause of accidents is lead feet / hands, #2 is OLD and cold tires. Cannot stress enough how important it is for spirited driving, I still see people running 10+ year old tires at VOA meets and it kills me. Definitely find your local Viper club! Cheers
 

Venamous54

Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 9, 2024
Posts
5
Reaction score
2
Location
USA
Thank you! Although, my rear diff just went. Grrr. Looking for a good GEN 4 diff if anyone knows of one.

Thanks again!
 

Venamous54

Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 9, 2024
Posts
5
Reaction score
2
Location
USA
Less than ideal for sure. Can get it completely rebuilt with 3.55 gears for 1500. Beautiful girls can be expensive.
 

MoparMap

VCA National President
VCA Officer
Joined
Jan 7, 2013
Posts
2,483
Reaction score
301
Location
Kansas
I assume you included the friction modifier when you did the fluid change? My understanding is that that is the main thing that affects noise in the differential.
 

kmagnuss

Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 24, 2024
Posts
35
Reaction score
11
Location
SW Florida
Agreed with above... I didn't put enough friction modifier in mine when I changed the fluid and it grinded around slow turns. I added more friction modifier to it and it 90% went away.
 

Old School

Enthusiast
Joined
May 14, 2023
Posts
125
Reaction score
63
Location
North Alabama
Yeah, could be lack of friction modifier if the grrr only occurs during turns. Could also be a wheel bearing, I had one fail, and it was a constant grrr while in motion.
 

99RT10GTS

Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 24, 2022
Posts
519
Reaction score
120
Location
Tennesse
Friction modifyier is essential. Since you worked on BMWs, this car will be easy. Everything is pretty easy to work on, key is to get a Service manual. What year is your car? I have a few for sale, if you need one, PM me.

If the last fluid change is unknown, it would be a great time to get acquainted with the car. Plugs/wires, oil/fluid changes are easy. Might be a littler tight on the back Pass side.
 

zombie

Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 13, 2024
Posts
1
Reaction score
0
Location
New Brunswick, Canada
Well I'll chip in my new purchase as well:

You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach


Has a full belanger headers + exhaust on it, but I'm not a huge fan honestly... it's just too loud, and the car is throwing codes for running lean.
 

Goggles Pizano

Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 25, 2009
Posts
455
Reaction score
109
Agreed with above... I didn't put enough friction modifier in mine when I changed the fluid and it grinded around slow turns. I added more friction modifier to it and it 90% went away.
Well how much more did you need to add over the standard amount states in the manual?
 

99RT10GTS

Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 24, 2022
Posts
519
Reaction score
120
Location
Tennesse
Well I'll chip in my new purchase as well:

You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach


Has a full belanger headers + exhaust on it, but I'm not a huge fan honestly... it's just too loud, and the car is throwing codes for running lean.


Reset your computer. Remove the positive cable off the battery, touch the cable to ground for a few seconds. The let the car relearn. Should fix the issue. How old are your front O2 sensors? Might be a good idea to put in new ones at the same time
 
Top