Air intake help...

[HHI VIPER]

Thinking of upgrading air flow/HP and was wondering if stock intake and box with K&N filters will provide best cold air/performance intake or what are the best options I have????? Wouldn't having the filters exposed under the hood draw in more hot air from the motor without the stock set up???? I need help from the pros!!!

 

[DAMN YANKEE]

Stock air box, smooth tubes with high flow filters and you are done. You do not need any more air, you will not use any more air. All the rest (except perhaps cooler air) is what you like to see when you open your hood. Leave your rain block alone, it makes ZERO difference.

And yes, I spent the bucks knowing all this....and my rig is supercharged and even that would not overpower the set up I spoke about in the first paragraph.

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[HHI VIPER]

Stock air box, smooth tubes with high flow filters and you are done. You do not need any more air, you will not use any more air. All the rest (except perhaps cooler air) is what you like to see when you open your hood. Leave your rain block alone, it makes ZERO difference.

And yes, I spent the bucks knowing all this....and my rig is supercharged and even that would not overpower the set up I spoke about in the first paragraph.

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That sure is purdy under the hood!!!! Thanks for the info! I presently have smooth tubes connected to the stock box w/K&N filters. Am I right in assuming that would be as good as it gets naturally or would modifying the opening to 3" (in the backhalf of the box?) be better with stock box? I had a PM from another member regarding this modification. Or would it matter??? Thanks!

 

[FE 065]

Stock air box, smooth tubes with high flow filters and you are done. You do not need any more air, you will not use any more air. All the rest (except perhaps cooler air) is what you like to see when you open your hood. Leave your rain block alone, it makes ZERO difference...

Wrong on all accounts.

 

[DAMN YANKEE]

You've got all the air you need with your mods and a stock engine. Spend elsewhere.
FE 065 - Think so, ok, I'm game....lets here what your thoughts are.

 

[banton]

Stock air box, smooth tubes with high flow filters and you are done. You do not need any more air, you will not use any more air. All the rest (except perhaps cooler air) is what you like to see when you open your hood. Leave your rain block alone, it makes ZERO difference...

Wrong on all accounts.

Damn Yankee is right. I just had my car dyno'd after having a set of heads/cam and supporting mods done and the shop stated they messed with the intake including removing it and the filters (with hood off) to see if would gain any more power and they got zero gain.

 

[RTTTTed]

This is interesting as there's a following of UGR that runs NO airfilters as they say it's a 50rwhp loss with the best cone filters and plumbing at 900rwhp.

Smooth tubes make 10 hp and nothing else helps? Most posts here say that "GREEN" filters are significantly better than K&Ns.

Vipeair supposedly makes significant hp over stock because it is open to the rad front air. It also makes higher hp numbers when the Roe front fascia scoop is installed, 'reportedly'.

The Gen 2 Naca duct was too restrictive so that was changed when the hp was upgraded to over 500hp with the Gen 3s.

My thoughts are that since K&Ns and smooth tubes increase hp and the NACA duct was dumped for stock engines ... The much higher surface area of cone filters adds power (even when slightly dirty). Larger Throttle Bodies add hp so a larger, smoother air track before the TBs should be added when hp goes past 500hp. Since the Gen 2 scoop was dropped for teh Gen 3 I'd open the airbox before 500hp to **** cold high pressure air in front of the rad.

I have large dual cone filters, 3" smooth pipeing, larger TB,s, radfront air intake opening on my Macedo/M2 airfilter intake system. It was expensive, but Larry M. put a lot of time and effort into testing what makes power and designing my airbox - before Vipeair.

Call Larry Macedo or Sean at Roe Racing since there seems to be a difference in opinion - talk to an expert on the subject.

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Ted

 

[banton]

This is interesting as there's a following of UGR that runs NO airfilters as they say it's a 50rwhp loss with the best cone filters and plumbing at 900rwhp.

Smooth tubes make 10 hp and nothing else helps? Most posts here say that "GREEN" filters are significantly better than K&Ns.

Vipeair supposedly makes significant hp over stock because it is open to the rad front air. It also makes higher hp numbers when the Roe front fascia scoop is installed, 'reportedly'.

The Gen 2 Naca duct was too restrictive so that was changed when the hp was upgraded to over 500hp with the Gen 3s.

My thoughts are that since K&Ns and smooth tubes increase hp and the NACA duct was dumped for stock engines ... The much higher surface area of cone filters adds power (even when slightly dirty). Larger Throttle Bodies add hp so a larger, smoother air track before the TBs should be added when hp goes past 500hp. Since the Gen 2 scoop was dropped for teh Gen 3 I'd open the airbox before 500hp to **** cold high pressure air in front of the rad.

I have large dual cone filters, 3" smooth pipeing, larger TB,s, radfront air intake opening on my Macedo/M2 airfilter intake system. It was expensive, but Larry M. put a lot of time and effort into testing what makes power and designing my airbox - before Vipeair.

Call Larry Macedo or Sean at Roe Racing since there seems to be a difference in opinion - talk to an expert on the subject.


Ted

I will clarify my statement then....on a Mustang dyno with my N/A GTS producing 592rwhp, my car showed no gains by removing the S&B filters, then the stock air box completely or by then removing the smooth tubes. Therefore on my car at its current power level, on a dyno demonstrated the a stock box with upgraded filters and smooth tubes did not present a performance restriction. How's that?

 

[RTTTTed]

That's fine. Is your car a Gen 2 with a Naca duct? Was the hood closed? Air speed etc. to simulate driving conditions?

The Vipeair supposedly overcomes the duct restrictions by drawing the high pressure air (not still or fan driven air on a stopped dyno) into the engine.

A Dyno doesn't drive and an open hood wouldn't notice the duct restriction. Ram air systems don't usually gain hp until after 60mph.

There was a lot of contravesy on the Vipeair hp claims, and I have no opinion on that, but I do see advantages with more cold air avaiable to higher than stock hp. I also posted a couple of experts that designed airboxes and intake systems that have in-house dynos.

Ted

 

[DAMN YANKEE]

Ok, well....here we go. This is all meant to be productively helpful.

"This is interesting as there's a following of UGR that runs NO airfilters as they say it's a 50rwhp loss with the best cone filters and plumbing at 900rwhp."

Perhaps at 900hp...perhaps. But, this thread was started by a guy that had a very real question "how far should I push my pre throttle body air system. The answer is still the same, with smooth tubes and high flow filters...the man is done.

Smooth tubes make 10 hp and nothing else helps? Most posts here say that "GREEN" filters are significantly better than K&Ns.

Smooth tubes and high flows, not "nothing else". He is done. Green, yellow, pink or just his K&Ns it all the same...ZERO difference, high flow and done. He should not throw out his K&Ns for Green as, until somebody shows up here with factual data that reveals more than .002HP its all the same.

Vipeair supposedly makes significant hp over stock because it is open to the rad front air. It also makes higher hp numbers when the Roe front fascia scoop is installed, 'reportedly'.

I said "except perhaps colder air" in my first paragraph. I was refering to two important but UNPROVEN on a stock engine mods...the VIPAIR and the JMB cold air system I run.
One of the best loggers out there, Steve, believes his Vipair helps...on a cold morning...in the first 8 minutes of his supercharged rig....before heat soad sets in. I belive the JMB unit, that feeds air from infron of the radiator may help too. As for the Roe fascia, cooler engine...yes. Higher HP on a stock engine? Show me the numbers..that is a one way mod (cutting up your Viper) he should not do it until the numbers show him its worth it.

The Gen 2 Naca duct was too restrictive so that was changed when the hp was upgraded to over 500hp with the Gen 3s.

GenII is what the man has and his Naca works perfectly...add the smooth tubes and high flows and he eliminates the EPA required parts that slowed the air down. He does not have 500 GENIII, he does not need anything more.

My thoughts are that since K&Ns and smooth tubes increase hp and the NACA duct was dumped for stock engines ... The much higher surface area of cone filters adds power (even when slightly dirty). Larger Throttle Bodies add hp so a larger, smoother air track before the TBs should be added when hp goes past 500hp. Since the Gen 2 scoop was dropped for teh Gen 3 I'd open the airbox before 500hp to **** cold high pressure air in front of the rad.

Now this one is important. There is no "higher surface area" that is goping to help once the air hits the tubes. I've spent a boat load of $ modifying my rig and making it run perfectly. I'm a mod advocate. I try very hard to refrain answering a guys question like you just did. You and I need to help these guys forward by making sure they PLAN. He does not have larger throttle bodies, he does not have 500 hp, or a supercharger. He does not have an airflow issue with his current set-up. He just wants to know can his engine efficiently make Lambda without any air drag effect...his answer is yes...smooth tubes and high flows.

I have large dual cone filters, 3" smooth pipeing, larger TB,s, radfront air intake opening on my Macedo/M2 airfilter intake system. It was expensive, but Larry M. put a lot of time and effort into testing what makes power and designing my airbox - before Vipeair.

Larry M...time and testing....perfect...numbers please?
I spoke to Sean and Joe D and JMB and a host of other guys all of them knowing I was buying and would be logging and testing and logging and testing and they all said the same thing. There would be no meaningful Horsepower gain on a stock engine that already had smooth tubes and high flows and then had a fancy air box swapped out.
Let me be clear here....Z-E-R-O meaningful HP improvement....as in NONE, NULL, 0,etc.
There are GREAT reasons to move forward with heavy mod engines...HEAVY mod engines.
A 5lbs pulley...not needed. An 8 lbs pulley...not needed. HEAVY mod startes at 10 lbs.

Call Larry Macedo or Sean at Roe Racing since there seems to be a difference in opinion - talk to an expert on the subject.

Please do....but dont just call them to ask them about an airbox...call them and plan out a great engine buildout. Call them and ask them things like "would you supercharge my engine or turbo charge it?" or "Would you use positive induction or heads and cams?" or "what can I expect if I was to get a better tune out of my stock engine with an engine management system?" or "How do you feel about using NO2?" or "how can I effectively spend $2k"....just consider something more than....airbox. You have your correct answer on that one...

Oh yea....guess what I have sitting on my shelf..my old smooth tube and high flow filter set...plan...don't let it happen to you.

Lastly, go to the illustrated section...I did a long piece on this JMB airbox...and in that piece I start out saying the truth of it:

":Why do it? Why take a perfectly good air box and swap it out? The facts are that with quality high flow filters and smooth tubes, the stock air box delivers all the air a set of stock throttle bodies require. Even when one is running a supercharged Roe system (lower pounds) high flow filter and smooth tubes make the stock air box a great match. The stock air box also has some other nice features, it fits like…well,stock, handles rain water and has a nice place to attach all the other stock breather lines that we require. Bust out the rain baffle? Well, the technique of removing the rain baffle adds little if any usable air flow and takes away…rain protection. So…why do it? I was hoping you would ask that….".

Sign in and go here...

http://forums.viperclub.org/illustrated-upgrades/608412-jmb-performance-air-box-guide-photos.html

 

[HHI VIPER]

Ok, well....here we go. This is all meant to be productively helpful.

"This is interesting as there's a following of UGR that runs NO airfilters as they say it's a 50rwhp loss with the best cone filters and plumbing at 900rwhp."

Perhaps at 900hp...perhaps. But, this thread was started by a guy that had a very real question "how far should I push my pre throttle body air system. The answer is still the same, with smooth tubes and high flow filters...the man is done.

Smooth tubes make 10 hp and nothing else helps? Most posts here say that "GREEN" filters are significantly better than K&Ns.

Smooth tubes and high flows, not "nothing else". He is done. Green, yellow, pink or just his K&Ns it all the same...ZERO difference, high flow and done. He should not throw out his K&Ns for Green as, until somebody shows up here with factual data that reveals more than .002HP its all the same.

Vipeair supposedly makes significant hp over stock because it is open to the rad front air. It also makes higher hp numbers when the Roe front fascia scoop is installed, 'reportedly'.

I said "except perhaps colder air" in my first paragraph. I was refering to two important but UNPROVEN on a stock engine mods...the VIPAIR and the JMB cold air system I run.
One of the best loggers out there, Steve, believes his Vipair helps...on a cold morning...in the first 8 minutes of his supercharged rig....before heat soad sets in. I belive the JMB unit, that feeds air from infron of the radiator may help too. As for the Roe fascia, cooler engine...yes. Higher HP on a stock engine? Show me the numbers..that is a one way mod (cutting up your Viper) he should not do it until the numbers show him its worth it.

The Gen 2 Naca duct was too restrictive so that was changed when the hp was upgraded to over 500hp with the Gen 3s.

GenII is what the man has and his Naca works perfectly...add the smooth tubes and high flows and he eliminates the EPA required parts that slowed the air down. He does not have 500 GENIII, he does not need anything more.

My thoughts are that since K&Ns and smooth tubes increase hp and the NACA duct was dumped for stock engines ... The much higher surface area of cone filters adds power (even when slightly dirty). Larger Throttle Bodies add hp so a larger, smoother air track before the TBs should be added when hp goes past 500hp. Since the Gen 2 scoop was dropped for teh Gen 3 I'd open the airbox before 500hp to **** cold high pressure air in front of the rad.

Now this one is important. There is no "higher surface area" that is goping to help once the air hits the tubes. I've spent a boat load of $ modifying my rig and making it run perfectly. I'm a mod advocate. I try very hard to refrain answering a guys question like you just did. You and I need to help these guys forward by making sure they PLAN. He does not have larger throttle bodies, he does not have 500 hp, or a supercharger. He does not have an airflow issue with his current set-up. He just wants to know can his engine efficiently make Lambda without any air drag effect...his answer is yes...smooth tubes and high flows.

I have large dual cone filters, 3" smooth pipeing, larger TB,s, radfront air intake opening on my Macedo/M2 airfilter intake system. It was expensive, but Larry M. put a lot of time and effort into testing what makes power and designing my airbox - before Vipeair.

Larry M...time and testing....perfect...numbers please?
I spoke to Sean and Joe D and JMB and a host of other guys all of them knowing I was buying and would be logging and testing and logging and testing and they all said the same thing. There would be no meaningful Horsepower gain on a stock engine that already had smooth tubes and high flows and then had a fancy air box swapped out.
Let me be clear here....Z-E-R-O meaningful HP improvement....as in NONE, NULL, 0,etc.
There are GREAT reasons to move forward with heavy mod engines...HEAVY mod engines.
A 5lbs pulley...not needed. An 8 lbs pulley...not needed. HEAVY mod startes at 10 lbs.

Call Larry Macedo or Sean at Roe Racing since there seems to be a difference in opinion - talk to an expert on the subject.

Please do....but dont just call them to ask them about an airbox...call them and plan out a great engine buildout. Call them and ask them things like "would you supercharge my engine or turbo charge it?" or "Would you use positive induction or heads and cams?" or "what can I expect if I was to get a better tune out of my stock engine with an engine management system?" or "How do you feel about using NO2?" or "how can I effectively spend $2k"....just consider something more than....airbox. You have your correct answer on that one...

Oh yea....guess what I have sitting on my shelf..my old smooth tube and high flow filter set...plan...don't let it happen to you.

Lastly, go to the illustrated section...I did a long piece on this JMB airbox...and in that piece I start out saying the truth of it:

":Why do it? Why take a perfectly good air box and swap it out? The facts are that with quality high flow filters and smooth tubes, the stock air box delivers all the air a set of stock throttle bodies require. Even when one is running a supercharged Roe system (lower pounds) high flow filter and smooth tubes make the stock air box a great match. The stock air box also has some other nice features, it fits like…well,stock, handles rain water and has a nice place to attach all the other stock breather lines that we require. Bust out the rain baffle? Well, the technique of removing the rain baffle adds little if any usable air flow and takes away…rain protection. So…why do it? I was hoping you would ask that….".

Sign in and go here...

http://forums.viperclub.org/illustrated-upgrades/608412-jmb-performance-air-box-guide-photos.html

WOW...just checking my thread and alot happened in 24 hours! Didn't mean to start a debate guys, I am new to the car and am trying to learn from experienced folks what my options are and what seems to work. DamnYankee you seem to have alot of info and I appreciate it and all others as well. Yes DamnYankee I agree, "have a plan"...My plan for the moment is to use the stock motor, keep it naturally asperated (for now... LOL) and get the most out of it with preliminary "bolt on" items and do it in stages. Obviously air intake and air exiting would be initial, correct? Larger throttle bodies or anything else helpful, or...? I guess larger throttle bodies means "NEED MORE AIR"??? I know there was a "first upgrades" thread at one time. I will try a search for it. For now I want ot get the biggest bang for the buck and move from there.

 

[dave6666]

One thing that dyno'ing a rain dam delete or a Vipair does not accomplish...

They are dynamic mods. They work only at speed. Don't know what that speed is, but it ain't the static speed of ZERO sitting on a dyno.

Unless someone has taken their Viper to be dyno'd in a wind tunnel, no one is qualified to say whether they work or not.

 

[ViperTony]

One thing that dyno'ing a rain dam delete or a Vipair does not accomplish...

They are dynamic mods. They work only at speed. Don't know what that speed is, but it ain't the static speed of ZERO sitting on a dyno.

Unless someone has taken their Viper to be dyno'd in a wind tunnel, no one is qualified to say whether they work or not.

It's easy to test. Using a Vec3, one could log several WOT pulls and analyze the data. I did this last summer with the Vipair duct and without. I saw no difference in HP/TQ but my engine was heat soaked by the time I got to logging. My air temperature was already way up there so I decided it was 'inconclusive'. All one has to do is log with the Vec3 out in the real world and I think will be a good measure for the Vipair. I only installed the Vipair 'cause I picked it up off ebay 2 years ago for $49.

 

[dave6666]

It's easy to test. Using a Vec3, one could log several WOT pulls and analyze the data. I did this last summer with the Vipair duct and without. I saw no difference in HP/TQ but my engine was heat soaked by the time I got to logging. My air temperature was already way up there so I decided it was 'inconclusive'. All one has to do is log with the Vec3 out in the real world and I think will be a good measure for the Vipair. I only installed the Vipair 'cause I picked it up off ebay 2 years ago for $49.

OK. I'll agree with your concept there. But unlike the 50hp claimed lmao with the Vipair, it may be such a small change that the Vec3 would not even pick it up. I mean, lets say the Vipair gave you 5 hp and the air dam delete gave you 2 hp. Would your test pick that up?

And yes, I'll spend $49.99 and get my Dremel out for 7 hp! Or whatever it is or isn't.

 

[ViperTony]

OK. I'll agree with your concept there. But unlike the 50hp claimed lmao with the Vipair, it may be such a small change that the Vec3 would not even pick it up. I mean, lets say the Vipair gave you 5 hp and the air dam delete gave you 2 hp. Would your test pick that up?

And yes, I'll spend $49.99 and get my Dremel out for 7 hp! Or whatever it is or isn't.

Well, I'm thinking that if the Vipair is supposed to allow more cool air to the intake than the Vec3 can log the Air Intake Temperature sensor readings and verify if that claim is true or not. I'd imagine with your roe fascia duct, you're pushing a lot more cool air through there than I am and will probably see a difference.

At the end of the day...its fun. Removing that rain baffle made me feel complete. I love it.

 

[dave6666]

Well, I'm thinking that if the Vipair is supposed to allow more cool air to the intake than the Vec3 can log the Air Intake Temperature sensor readings and verify if that claim is true or not. I'd imagine with your roe fascia duct, you're pushing a lot more cool air through there than I am and will probably see a difference.

At the end of the day...its fun. Removing that rain baffle made me feel complete. I love it.

Yeah... Dave at Big Brakes is the master of giving that class, but he says the tie-in of the Vipair and the Roe duct is a must. In other words, the Vipair is a no show without opening up the fascia to allow more air in.

 

[RTTTTed]

HHI Viper, if you're thinking about Forced Induction later, buying final parts for 'plan' saves money. Buying the parts for your finished product instead of 'intermediate parts' will save you money in the long run.

Ted

 

[banton]

HHI Viper, if you're thinking about Forced Induction later, buying final parts for 'plan' saves money. Buying the parts for your finished product instead of 'intermediate parts' will save you money in the long run.

Ted

I agree with that 100%

 

[DAMN YANKEE]

I agree to what RTTTTed says, plan it with somebody that really knows.
HHI Viper, your doing all the right things by asking, dont mind us as we rattle on.
There is ALOT of info you can find out there. You need to spend more time contacting the great tuners and builders that frequent and support the VCA, these guys will save you from making any big mistakes. Remeber....there is a tipping point where a HEavy modded Viper becomes a pain, dont go there. Go light, go simple, go smart, go fast.


The first thing you should do is buy the Roe Racing post engine turn off kit that runs the fan when the engine is off but still hot. Best thing for the money you will buy.

Big throttle bodies, perhaps but not yet, maybe never...you need a plan.

Your on your way.

 

[HHI VIPER]

HHI Viper, if you're thinking about Forced Induction later, buying final parts for 'plan' saves money. Buying the parts for your finished product instead of 'intermediate parts' will save you money in the long run.

Ted

I may go that route later as I am a supercharger and turbo fan. Had a BMW S/C and a twin turbo 3rd gen RX7 and do like the extra HP. Thinking that in mind, what might I start out with at this point to get things rolling that way? I seriously want to keep dependability and motor stock inside. Bolt on's can "bolt off" later if I wanted to return to stock. What should I do from the start and what order do people seem to follow? I am not in position financially with the economy the way it is and my partners and I are planning an expansion with equipment for work when the economy breaks loose (HOPEFULLY...), but like we are "all" saying...have a plan. I definetly will listen to the folks on the VCA for pointers in the right direction! You know this vehicle...I do not! I believe I would like to take steps to "arrive" at forced air and could really care less about repeating anything or shputzing around just for the sake of a little more horsepower for now. I am happy to wait and do it right and "FRUGAL" as possible!!!! Would like to eventually end up with a dependable 150-200 horse or so at the wheels. That would suit me just fine for playing!

 

[HHI VIPER]

I agree to what RTTTTed says, plan it with somebody that really knows.
HHI Viper, your doing all the right things by asking, dont mind us as we rattle on.
There is ALOT of info you can find out there. You need to spend more time contacting the great tuners and builders that frequent and support the VCA, these guys will save you from making any big mistakes. Remeber....there is a tipping point where a HEavy modded Viper becomes a pain, dont go there. Go light, go simple, go smart, go fast.


The first thing you should do is buy the Roe Racing post engine turn off kit that runs the fan when the engine is off but still hot. Best thing for the money you will buy.

Big throttle bodies, perhaps but not yet, maybe never...you need a plan.

Your on your way.

The "rattling on" is fine as everybody has different views but the few that have answered this thread think on about the same lines as myself and I do appreciate it! I agree with heavy mods!!! I am not going to race per say, I just want to have a little fun and modding the engine to extremes I am not interested at all in. I have been wanting this car for 10 years and the last thing I want to do is have dependability and drivability issues. Plus my wife says... She knows me too well!!! Yes, the engine timer (probably like a turbo timer) would be a good idea...Thanks!

 

[FE 065]

You've got all the air you need with your mods and a stock engine. Spend elsewhere.
FE 065 - Think so, ok, I'm game....lets here what your thoughts are.

My own testing over the years has convinced me that there's more to be had than what the OE airbox yields. But it can be dependent on what exhaust you're running too.

Switching airboxes at the strip for example, one airbox with the rain block/one without saw a .10 gain when using the airbox with the rain block removed. Testing an OE airbox on a major corporation's giant flowbench saw the passenger side flowing more air than the driver's side due to the left side outlet being obstructed more by the rain block than the right.

Stuff like that, most of which I've posted about previously.

I've been busy finishing up an experimental airbox mod..and a short test drive tells me this new mod idea actually works! (..no one's ever posted about doing it) I think I'm going to have to start calling this airbox Frankenbox - it's been reworked so much and has so many varied fasteners holding everything together. I was hoping to take advantage of the GB on the SCT programmers to compliment the mod, but I was unable to get enough info to go through with it.

The driving season's still young - could be an interesting Summer !

 

[DAMN YANKEE]

Sounds interesting...I look forward to test results.
But...for a stock engine with his mods.....spend elsewhere.

 

[HHI VIPER]

My own testing over the years has convinced me that there's more to be had than what the OE airbox yields. But it can be dependent on what exhaust you're running too.

Switching airboxes at the strip for example, one airbox with the rain block/one without saw a .10 gain when using the airbox with the rain block removed. Testing an OE airbox on a major corporation's giant flowbench saw the passenger side flowing more air than the driver's side due to the left side outlet being obstructed more by the rain block than the right.

Stuff like that, most of which I've posted about previously.

I've been busy finishing up an experimental airbox mod..and a short test drive tells me this new mod idea actually works! (..no one's ever posted about doing it) I think I'm going to have to start calling this airbox Frankenbox - it's been reworked so much and has so many varied fasteners holding everything together. I was hoping to take advantage of the GB on the SCT programmers to compliment the mod, but I was unable to get enough info to go through with it.

The driving season's still young - could be an interesting Summer !

Interesting...Keep us posted!!!

 

[Cobraken]

It's interesting that in some vehicles there is an improvement with an aftermarket CAI and others there is not and even a loss. SRT 10 Ram dynos showed power losses on almost all aftermarket CAI's with the only improvement being with a drop in K& N. They still sell a lot of CAI's to the truck guys.

 

[dave6666]

It's interesting that in some vehicles there is an improvement with an aftermarket CAI and others there is not and even a loss. SRT 10 Ram dynos showed power losses on almost all aftermarket CAI's with the only improvement being with a drop in K& N. They still sell a lot of CAI's to the truck guys.

Was the SRT's dyno in a wind tunnel, where dynamic improvements perform? Or was the Ram static sitting still, where dynamic improvements don't perform?

Maybe the people that buy all these parts actually understand this concept. Well, at least some of them must be smarter than the TV commercials themselves.

They are designed to work at 60 mph wind speed, not 0 mph. Most dyno's are 0 mph wind speed.

 

[FE 065]

Sounds interesting...I look forward to test results.
But...for a stock engine with his mods.....spend elsewhere.

My engine is stock btw, including stock exhaust manifolds, rear muffler - and the 2.25 inch plumbing leading to it from the back of the sills. I've intentionally avoided the usual bolt-ons route to pursue my own ideas.

This is on my yellow ACR now..but it's due to get reconfigured.

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[DJ'sviper]

I have a Gen I and bought some air filters and smooth tubes. The guy said he runs 147 in the 1/4 and I said he didn't get that with smooth tubes. He laughed and said the set up would get me 17 HP. So the question is will the filters do me any good? Sounds like the smooth tubes will give me 5 HP.

 

[RTTTTed]

If I was kind of broke I'd cut the airdamn out of the airbox in the car and instal K&Ns when I needed a new air filter. I'd buy a diesel pickup tailpipe and a muffler, then build my own exhuast, toss the cats and use a side exit to save a couple thou. I'd save all my money and buy a good used Roe blower system and instal that ($5,000). I'd get the most 'bang for the buck spending what a complete exhaust would cost. 150-200rwhp with the potential to upgrade a pulley and add a water/**** sytem for another hundred or so hp. A new set of wheels would cost more than that. Money could dictate stereo, big brakes, wheels, speakers, headers, tailpipes, etc. after that - but what I did was spend an extra $5,000 when I bought my car with nearly everything I wanted already on it. The 'little things' I've done since buying it have already cost me nearly $10,000 extra and a ton of work (I'm a do it yourselfer). Nearly finished now.

Ted